0 votes
3k views

hi…i have a ge top load washer …it will not start..dead…i thought maybe the gfi plug…but i plugged it into another source and it still will not start….i did reset the gfi and when i plugged it back in i heard a pop…..not good i know, but i do not know where to start to check it out…..is it fused?? or do you think something else is blown?

this is what i found elsewhere?? just an fyi…not sure what to think…

Cause 1 Thermal Fuse

If the washer overheats, the thermal fuse will blow. If the line fuse blows, the washer won’t start. To determine if the thermal fuse is at fault, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the fuse does not have continuity, replace it. In addition, you should investigate and resolve the problem that caused the fuse to blow. If you don’t resolve the underlying issue, the new fuse will blow too.

Cause 2 Main Control Board

The main control board might be defective. However, the main control board is rarely at fault for this symptom. Before replacing the main control board, first check all of the more commonly defective parts.

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
0 votes
4k views

Hi!
The problem is the following:
1. After turning on of a refrigerator, it works for ~2 hours, temp. goes down to -20 and +5 in freezer and cooling chamber, compressor stops
2. Then, after 10-15 minutes, it tries to start for 8-10 seconds, producing loud clicks and then stops. Freezer fan is working all the time.
3. Temp. goes up to +10 in both cameras, producing A1 or A2 alert.
If I give him a rest for 4-5 hours, this cycle repeats.
But some times (I don’t know why) this scheme breaks – compressor works (normally?), but temp. in cooling chamber rises up +10, meanwhile temp. in freezer drops to -26-27.
Thus, there is strange behavior – sometimes it seems to make vacuum in freezer, after the door is closed.

  • Anton asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

are you sure your video for ice maker removal is complete?

  • Guest asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
0 votes
6k views

Hi thanks for your video on how to replace my ice maker it worked great. However my ice maker still does not make ice. It seems to cycle one time and then quit. So if I reset it it may make one tray and that’s all. Same results with the old ice maker I replaced. Any ideas?

  • Guest asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
3k views

unit makes a grrrrr sound while agitating. only does it when the basket attempts to turn left, it tries to turn left makes grrr noise ,won’t turn, but will turn to the right just fine, drains fine and spins fine no noises in drain or spin. any ideas? thanks

  • mrfixit asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
10k views

Hi – I really appreciate your videos.

I have the issue captioned above and it is just like the problem experienced in your video:

I have checked belt slippage/alignment and the belt switch (as was the problem above) and they both appear fine.

Any suggestions on what I should do next? BTW, I don’t have a multimeter so testing and diagnostics are as not easy as they could be.

  • Bret asked 9 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
1 vote
3k views

Ice filter not changed in two years and existing small amount of cubes are small.

What is the method to cycle ice maker and perform test:

I will assume I have to fix a defrost thermostat/thermistor assembly. I need to be able to test and disassemble freezer back panel and ice maker Dissasembly.

  • Guest asked 7 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
0 votes
56k views

Have E 22 fault code which I know is the fresh food fan. Problem is code will not reset and nothing else will start up on the unit. Can here the control board click but compressor never cuts on. Any ideas?

  • Guest asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
3k views

Whirlpool Refrigerator French door bottom freezer. The unit is all iced up where the Ice maker is? How to you take the Ice maker out? It has all snap parts with screws to come out.

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
0 votes
6k views

My fridge stopped working after our neutral line in the house was severed blowing most appliances not on protectors. I replaced the control board hoping it would fix it like my stove but not so.
Reprogramed to code 12 and the board is working correctly fan comes on but make a chugging sound (did that when it worked right) but no compressor. I looked at the wiring diagram and see a relay for the compressor, could this be it or is there another fuse or issue I may have. How do I trouble shoot this from here? Or is my fridge beyond repair?

  • Drew asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

Have 14 vdc at user interface

  • user asked 4 years ago
  • last active 4 years ago
0 votes
3k views

After this last wash, the “Control Locked” light came on my washer. We have unplugged, to try to reset but to no avail. what is the matter with my washer? Please help. Mine is a Whirlpool Duet Washer with the above model #. The dryer is fine but my washer….. There is no error code just the light

  • Desiree asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
3k views

igniter working, flame working then going out after few minutes. put in new coils, still same problem! is there a way to check the valve itself? or could it be the heat sensor? thanks
what would next step be? thanks

  • Stanya asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
3k views

re: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-N39ZXZTWwc

Hi Sean, Your video, referenced above, worked perfectly with my machine. All of the diagnostics presented no problems, however, I felt that my machine took longer to drain than yours did in the video; but that’s the problem with my machine: my clothes won’t spin out on most cycles. I usually have to run my laundry through 2-3 “Drain & Spin” cycles before the clothes are spun out sufficiently enough to put in the dryer. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Terri

  • Terri Myers asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
3k views

THIS IS SECOND TIME ASKING WHAT COULD BE PROBLEM
AND WHAT IS OHMS ON SAFTEY VALVE WOULD BE TWO PIN ON TOP AND TWO PIN ON BOTTOM
PLEASE LET ME KNOW THANKS SO MUCH

  • Guest asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

First, your subzero refrige coil repair video is great!!

We have two Subero units with the 2 compressors in a tray. The 700 series and also a 427 wine cooler with lower drawers.

These units are a nightmare to work on due to limited access.

Since there is nothing obvious about how one might be able to ever get to the back compressor for service, a video would be a huge help.

Are your tech people familiar with these units with the tray, and would they consider a video?

If not, is there anyone there who I could talk to on the phone about the tray style subzeros?

Thanks

  • ernie asked 10 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
3k views

My fridge isn’t cooling. The evaporator is only frosted on about the top 1″ of the evaporator. I’m aware that the evaporators are notorious for leaking. How do I locate the leak? Will a leak that small show up with a bubble type solution, or do I use a sniffer?
When it comes time to evacuate the system, I have manifold gauges, but they’re set up for automotive R134a. What are the correct fittings for the R12 system? It looks like 1/4″ flare, but I can’t tell for sure. In the automotive world the low and High side have different size fittings, but on the fridge they look to be the same.

Thanks,
Don

  • Don Coulter asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
3k views

My Amana frig & freezer (model#ACD2234HRB) were both warm, although fan would still run. After hearing a clicking & humming sound.The information I found noted that it was more than likely a bad relay/starter/overload then compressor. So I replaced the starter relay/overload/capacitor(?), part#W10613606 . After replacing it was making the same sound and clicking on and off, also still no cooling to the freezer or frig. But after pulling out the relay to check connections, I noticed the relay/overload was hot to the touch. I don’t have a volt meter to check the compressor or parts. Bad part?

I ordered a new part, just in case it was bad. The same thing, happens hums ,clicks on and off, repeats itself. Will not get compressor running. Relay/overload is hot to touch. Don’t have a volt meter to check compressor.

  • ROBERT asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
3k views

Good day My Name is Roland. We are working on a dryer LG and need some help.
The unit will not heat well, we change the gas valve, the pilot valve comes on, but will not start full heat. The drum still rotates and we are getting no error codes. Do you have access to a wiring diagram for this unit or suggestions as to what is going on. Your help is appreciated.
Roland

0 votes
2k views

Whenever unit is set to self clean winth 90 minutes it shuts down with an F9 error message according to customer have replaced control and checked for proper operation of door latch assembly all other functions work properly what could be the issue?

  • mra20168 asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
2k views

Evaporator and condenser fan motors running compressor running outer loop in front of door hot off and on open door light does not come on press button on control and light comes on but than goes out I suspect board is bad need video on how to replace the board and to know if I should check anything else compressor has a inverter board and when I open door switch what should my switch read when I check for continuity I do want to replace board without first being able to access the control and check board out I dont believe this has a main control board in the back correct me if am wrong

  • otrlopez67 asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
442 views

To whom it may concern,
I have a whirlpool WRF757SDEM refrigerator that recently has a loud noise coming that appears to be coming from the top section. Last year I replaced the evaporator fan and thermostat as the unit has frozen up and stopped cooling. After that fan was replaced the unit was very quit and running normally.
Recently ( past 3 days) it has gotten very loud at times with a slight vibration. At times, the sound is very loud, but then it gets quieter; almost to normal levels.
The top unit is cold and maintains temperature, there isn’t any issue making ice and everything is cold and frozen in the freezer.
I am wondering if its an issue with the evaporator fan and if that needs to be replaced again.
Any and all assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Kindest regards,
Kris

  • toot033 asked 11 months ago
  • last active 11 months ago
0 votes
2k views

Not heating, blinking complete cycle not staying solid

  • Guest asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

Gas dryer igniter will glow for about 8-10 seconds the click and will not light. Could not find anywhere what the resistance should be on the igniter. Any suggestions on what else could cause this?

  • Guest asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views
  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
0 votes
2k views
LO

the unit will work sometimes .
put if I out it into spin I get the LO error and the unit will not run

  • Guest asked 7 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
0 votes
888 views

Hi,
I am troubleshooting a no LED light issue on this unit, All the LEDs work except the 5 on the roof of the refrigerator. The schematic shows that the 5 fridge roof LED’s are divided into 2 series circuits, 3 in one series and 2 in the other going back to the LED Driver board for the DC source. Both of these strings are not working, I have diagnosed that the LED Driver board is partially defective .

The problem is, it is not shown in any service literature, ANYWHERE. The visual shows it is located next to the control board along with the power supply, The only part shown in the exploded diagram is the Control board itself, Whirlpool W11161172. If you do a parts list search for LED Driver, it does not generate any hits. I am at a loss, I have check multiple sources including the Factory SM with no luck.

I need the part number for the LED Driver Board! Why is it not shown or listed anywhere? I wasted 2 hours looking!!!

Thanks 🙂
Tom
609 418 0278

  • thosk1051 asked 3 years ago
  • last active 3 years ago
0 votes
2k views

Temps are warm in both freezer and fresh food dept. Compresser is running but freezer is hardly cold also no evap. fans are running in the frig. No error codes present. The brand is a Kenmore.

  • Guest asked 7 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
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