0 votes
10k views

Hi – I really appreciate your videos.

I have the issue captioned above and it is just like the problem experienced in your video:

I have checked belt slippage/alignment and the belt switch (as was the problem above) and they both appear fine.

Any suggestions on what I should do next? BTW, I don’t have a multimeter so testing and diagnostics are as not easy as they could be.

  • Bret asked 9 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
0 votes
3k views

igniter working, flame working then going out after few minutes. put in new coils, still same problem! is there a way to check the valve itself? or could it be the heat sensor? thanks
what would next step be? thanks

  • Stanya asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
3k views

Good day My Name is Roland. We are working on a dryer LG and need some help.
The unit will not heat well, we change the gas valve, the pilot valve comes on, but will not start full heat. The drum still rotates and we are getting no error codes. Do you have access to a wiring diagram for this unit or suggestions as to what is going on. Your help is appreciated.
Roland

0 votes
11k views

I have examined the heating element of this Samsung dryer; but it did not appear broken. The coils were a bit black in some places but nothing broken. The inside of the dryer was filthy with lint … on the motor, in the heating element, and clogged in the lint exhaust hose. The tub spins and it has power. Is this low heat condition and indication that the heating element is going out or is there a problem with a thermostat not working correctly? What would cause a low heat condition in the dryer?

Thanks-

Fred / Lubbock, TX.

  • Fred asked 10 years ago
  • last active 10 years ago
0 votes
2k views

Gas dryer igniter will glow for about 8-10 seconds the click and will not light. Could not find anywhere what the resistance should be on the igniter. Any suggestions on what else could cause this?

  • Guest asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
7k views

I have a customer that wants me to convert his LG dryer to LP. It is an LG model # DLG3171. I typed this number into your model # guide, with no results. I checked PartsPro website and that number came up. So I know that it is a good number. Do you have a video for this model # or something close to it showing how to take it apart? And 2, how long should a job like this take?
Thank you
Bob

1 vote
2k views

My dryer runs and heats up as expected in timed modes. However, in REGULAR mode (or automatic mode), it runs normal too, but the heat stops “heating” after about 5 minutes of being turned on. The Dryer LED indicator still shows it is drying with heat. It hasn’t even entered the cool mode yet. The clothes do not dry completely.

I have replaced the 4″ vent duct with a new clean duct. I cleaned and vacuumed the inside of the dryer too, including internal duct parts. Air blasted the blower blades. I removed the plastic filter housing and pressure washed the insides perfectly clean. Air flow is very plentiful. Looks brand new. Since I do HVAC as a living, I checked the following components: Radiant sensor, Thermostat (gas flame), Thermal fuse, Thermistor and Thermostat (dryer side). I cleaned all of them properly.

My conclusion is, that the thermistor (reading 10K ohms at room temperature) could be bad since I do not know for sure what it is supposed to read at different temperatures and it is a sensor that is directly exposed to the elements inside the dryer. I paid special attention on cleaning it, suspecting that it may have a bi-metal surface in contact with lint and moisture.

My other concern is the two “moisture sensors” (cathodes?). They look clean (and I wiped them down with water and a clean cloth) and I made sure that the blue wires are not loose when re-attaching them. How can two pieces of clean metal go bad? They look like stainless steel. To narrow the problem down, I thought about jumping the two blue wires, by-passing the moisture sensor plates to simulate a constant presence of moisture, but didn’t want to do any possible damage. My second thought was to place a wet sponge securely across the two plates to see if any improvement is noticed during a test run.

Lastly, the unlikely problem could be the electronics within the circuit board.

What do I need to do to positively find out what the problem is so I can fix the dryer?
Your reply is deeply appreciated.
Regards, Patrick Kieran.

  • Patrick Kieran asked 10 years ago
  • last active 10 years ago
0 votes
3k views

You can start the dryer again it will just shut off completely. What do you think this could be?

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
0 votes
2k views

The controls on my dryer will not respond.

0 votes
785 views

This is a coin operated electric dryer. When it is started, the minutes display shows 45 and the light on the top panel is on for “cooling down” instead of “drying”. The heat cycles on and off and the time display counts down normally to 1 minute and remains at 1 minute, and the dryer continues to run and heat and doesn’t shut off. I’m suspecting the timer is the issue. Any assistance would be appreciated.
Thank you.

  • user asked 2 years ago
  • last active 2 years ago
0 votes
3k views

Wall mount GE dryer:When press start bottom starts but doesn’t continue running.is it the motore?

  • Guest asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
3k views

on this unit it will start only while the push to start button is held down.

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
0 votes
2k views

The light on my GE dryer is not working.

0 votes
3k views

I just used my dryer yesterday and it worked fine, but today I went to get the load out and it was still damp. Doesn’t seem to be blowing any hot air out. What do you think the problem could be?

  • Dennis Jones asked 10 years ago
  • last active 10 years ago
0 votes
2k views

THE DRYER IS NOT HEATING. TUMBLES AND BLOWS COLD. HELP! TODD FROM NY

  • Guest asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

This dryer does not heat, plus in any cycle it will shut down after 2 minutes of running. The heater is bad, but not sure if the other problem is the most likely cause of the motor, or if it is the board. Any ideas?

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
0 votes
3k views

Dryer shuts off during high heat cycle after about 10 minutes, will run on low heat just fine. The dryer will start back up immediately after it shuts itself off. I replaced the motor in this dryer a little over a year ago, to me this sounds like a motor issue, but a little confused as to why it runs on the low temp cycle. Run with the vent off as well and same results as before. Any ideas or suggestions?

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
0 votes
2k views

Hey Guys.
I am attempting to replace the baring on my Fisher & Paykel Drying.
I managed to remove the baring. However, the washer (SHIELD DUCT INLET) on the backside, can only be reached by removing the entire
outer casing.
The shell appears to be attached at the bottom by the feet.
I can’t figure out the mechanics of how the feet are attached.
Hope you can help.

Carl (504) 460-7242

  • carl1 asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
0 votes
2k views

Machine is 27 years old but has run fine until now. I’ve replaced the coils and checked for continuity on high end thermostat and the cycling thermostat. Blower is working fine and we do not have a vent obstruction. Dryer starts normally, igniter heats up and flame runs about 8 seconds. Igniter cycles intermitantly but with the same short burn time. Timer does not advance in dry cycles but does work in “less dry” period at the end of a cycle. I’m thinking the burner shutting off prematurely is causing the timer not to advance, but I’m at a loss as to why that is.

  • fred mayo asked 10 years ago
  • last active 10 years ago
0 votes
2k views

HOW TO BREAK DOWN TO REPLACE IDLER

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
0 votes
2k views

The led indicator lights on my GE dryer are not working.

1 vote
1k views

I haven’t been on the call yet but I have an LG dryer that has a burning smell once it starts up

  • allstar asked 7 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
0 votes
2k views

do you have a video on this dryer. 220 elec.
runs but no heat

  • burtyost asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
0 votes
2k views

Have unplugged unit for long periods 2 hours or more trying to reset any faults , see no faults , plugged back in this last time and lock out light came on . cannot clear it with end of cycle button , and will not let any buttons work . Display blank.
First few times I could unplug for about an hour and re connect and it would come on and dry to end of cycle . But while drying you could not pause or cancel drying. opening door would stop it however.
Is it interface board or control board ?
Thanks ;
Steve

  • Steve Smallwood asked 10 years ago
  • last active 10 years ago
0 votes
2k views

the board lights up
i can select the option i want and when i press start nothing happens i see it trying to move to the cycle but nothing happens.
i did check the door switch and thermal fuse and all is good.
can it be the board?

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
1 vote
2k views

It starts up it glows then I get a hum from the gas valve but no gas comes out I put brand-new solenoids on it and I get the same symptom the gas valve just hums and then it stops humming it glows again and then it hums again every time it glows it hums

  • Guest asked 7 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
0 votes
865 views

Would like to know how to open the dryer to replace the rollers.

  • haivanpham asked 2 years ago
  • last active 2 years ago
0 votes
2k views

I have a kenmore elite HE4 that will run for a while until it get very hot and cuts off. I have checked the thermo cutoff fuse, the heating element, thermostat high limit, and thermo cut off per your videos. Everything shows continuity with the meter. I have noticed that the heating element does not cycle on and off per your video. For what it is worth, it does not look like the entire heating coil itself is red either. There is an inch or two of it that does not look red to me. Is it possible there is an issue with the heating element that I am missing.

  • Brett Davis asked 10 years ago
  • last active 10 years ago
0 votes
3k views

I have a Kenmore 79691172210 Dryer. The heat is not staying on for more than 10 seconds. The igniter turns bright red then the flames come up. It stay on for 8 seconds then the igniter slowly fades and then turns off completely. The barrel still spins. 30-45 seconds later, the flame comes on again and it cycles off again. Can anyone confirm that these are symptoms of a bad gas coil?

After much research, I found it to be the gas coils but for this specific model, I can’t get just the coil and need the whole gas assembly?!?! What gives? A $20 part is bad but I need to pay $130 for the assembly?!

Thank you experts!

  • Den asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
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