Appliance Type: Standalone Freezer

I asked you last week about a Kenmore upright freezer that I determined to have a bad compressor. I got there and the temp in the freezer was 68*. I was told that it stopped freezing a few days ago, ( probably more than that ) and so I checked the evap/fan and it was working fine. So, I pulled it out and checked the compressor and it was so hot, I could barely touch it. I unplugged it for about 15 minutes and put a hard start on it, because the relay was bad. Let it run for about 20 minutes. Both the compressor and hard start were hot.
I was schooled to think that if the compressor is that HOT, and has been running like that for a while; that it’s NO GOOD. The reason is, as I was told, that the high temp breaks down the oils, etc in the compressor.
My customer had another freezer ( chest type ) and it was also NOT freezing. I opened the compressor panel and checked the temperature of the compressor and it was HOTTER than her upright. ( sho has a coffee plus shop ). I told her that both freezers were no good.
Anyways she called her refrigeration service people out. He told her, that the only thing wrong with the chest freezer is that it needs to be defrosted.
QUESTION: was I schooled correctly to think that if the compressor runs that hot for an ” unknown ” period of time that it is NO GOOD?

why does Kenmore upright freezer top shelf have a big big frost built up none of the other shelfs do this this is a very simple unit manual defrost no interior fan.

Model – 253.26082100 Serial – WB63832311

Display in door flashing CE. Disconnected / reconnected wiring harness from control board that goes to display. Did not changed anything . Found upon opening door slowly display would clear out CE and then come back as you moved door.
Suspect wiring harness in door problem. Parts breakdown shows harness in bottom of door, but no part number. Anybody come across this before? Are you able to replace this harness? Thanks in advance

I would like to know how to put this freezer into the defrost cycle. it was frosted up, so i took it apart and defrosted it. the heater was ok. the defrost thermostat read open even frozen in the ice. after I jiggled the wires a little then it showed good. I replaced it anyway. I would like to put an amp clamp on it while its cold and kick it into defrost to make sure its fixed. i know some of them you open the door a couple of times. I would like to know the sequence to put this one in defrost .

Our 3 yr old upright frost free kenmore freezer (2845) seemed to be cooling erratically and I noticed ice build up on the freezer bottom floor. I cleaned the ice off the floor and checked for leaking food – none. The ice has returned. I looked at your videos and think the problem may be a clogged drain. However, I’m not sure how to get at the drain on this model. Thanks for the advice!

I changed the duck bill drain per you video (it was stopped up) and installed the new pea trap drain with no problem yesterday. I didn’t have time to get the ice out of the bottom till today..just finished doing that..I still had water on the floor this afternoon. Could it be because I didn’t get the ice out till today or am I frozen somewhere else?? I can see a frozen trickle of ice in the back right corner of the freezer. Thought about using a hairdryer in that area but I’m not sure if I should.

I have an issue with a Freezer, it’s a Frigidaire and this is the problem I am seeing: Intermittent cooling

so the temp in the freezer is not freezing.
i open the back unit the coils are frozen .
i put the unit into defrost and i can hear the ice melting . however i believe there is too much ice for it to melt before the cycle is done.
i tested the timer and it went back into a normal cycle what can the issue be?

This is an upright freezer only. I recently replaced the non-working evaporator fan motor with a new OEM motor. I placed a data logger in the freezer for 3 days. Temperatures in the top are averaging 30 degrees and the bottom shelf zero. Complaint is food is soft on the top shelf. The frost pattern on evaporator was good. The freezer is loaded up pretty full but it appears to me that there is adequate space for air to flow. One thing I noticed was when I would pull the evaporator wall forward the evaporator motor fan motor sounded like it would speed up. I’m not sure is this is just because I could then hear the fan better or if it was actually speeding up due to less restricted air flow. There was door seal problem as well but this was corrected before I placed the data logger in place and the seal is good. The cold control is set on #5 which is colder than the customer normally had to set it. I was wondering if I need to replace the cold control or if the evap motor is possibly spinning to slow. Thank you for any advice.

Need a service manual on this model.

The door seal had a tiny gap near the bottom, that wouldn’t be enough to cause this issue would it?

Frigidaire upright freezer control on door had an “8” and was not running. Unplugged freezer and it worked again. I suspect it was flashing “E” and “8”. I checked servicetips.com service manual, file name ends with 5995531505. It says E8 is a shorted thermistor. Do I need to go back and check this? Is replacing the thermistor the only part needed or is there a pcb/control (besides the one in the door) needing to be replaced?
I need some feedback from someone who has more experience with these freezers.

I have a Whirlpool Model GI6SDRXXQ02, Serial # K11191550 Refrigerator that accumulates ice below the freezer section about an 1/8″ thick and then water leaks out onto the floor as the freezer door has frost due to the icing. This just started this year and I have had this Ref. 6 or so years.

My Kenmore freezer is not cooing properly.