1 vote
1k views

How can I do a test on the electronic defrost control?

  • Guest asked 7 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
1 vote
2k views

New bulbs burning too. Bulb outlets burned.. I’m assuming relay because the bulb outlet is just leads from the relay? Both bulbs hot because on same line. Please keep it simple

  • Guest asked 7 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
1 vote
2k views

Sounds not draining water. Clothes are still damp.

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
1 vote
2k views

Put in the internet for a wiring diagram, (somewhere to chase) only to find that I’m working on a fridge that doesn’t exist. If I can get a diagram, that would be enough, but a push in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.

  • Guest asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
2k views

The display board on this unit will randomly lose power and go blank. If you try and use any features (water or ice) it just beeps. All lights work in the unit on inside, however, the freezer section will not stay as cold as it should. when I’ve been there, all fans are working and compressor running. If you unplug the unit for about 5 minutes, the refrigerator will run fine for about a week. I’m thinking main board, any input would be great!

  • Guest asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
0 votes
2k views

Amana washer unlocks before spin and doesn’t spin, what could cause that?

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
0 votes
1k views

I spent a lot of time finding a small leak that comes from the transmission/motor assembly that attaches to the tub. It leaks in one area near the backside. I assume I will have to remove the whole assembly to get to it. Are there any videos that show this procedure?

  • Guest asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
0 votes
3k views

Hello,
We recently went out to an Amana washer, and the unit diagnosed itself as a speed sensor. From there, we are a little at a loss. One of our senior technicians believes it is a shift actuator.
Can you please advise as to what we should check, and how we test the shift actuator to see if it’s good?

  • Guest asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
0 votes
3k views

My Bottom Freezer refrigerator stopped cooling a few weeks ago. I checked the compressor compartment and the fan is still running. The compressor relay and capacitor tested OK (resistance btwn 5-10). The compressor also checks out OK. I tested the defrost timer (turning clockwise) and that does not seem to be the problem either. I then opened up the freezer compartment and tested the temperature control thermostat. I tested resistance while it was OFF…and no reading as expected. The tested it ON and it made sound, indicating a connection…so this was also tested OK. The final test I did was to test the Defrost Thermostat. I disconnected it and placed it into a cup of ice cold water for a few minutes and tested the resistance again (Ohms). The ohmmeter should sound (resistance) when I tested it in the cold water, but no sound, and no reading, indicating an issue. I did the test numerous times and same result. Lastly, today, while the defrost thermostat was unplugged and I had the refrigerator open (ice tray disconnected, defrost thermostat disconnected), I plugged the refrigerator into the outlet and the compressor came on and it started to freeze again. My question is this, could a bad defrost timer prevent the compressor from starting, even though my freezer didn’t have a froze over problem? I searched all over the web and all advice pointed to a bad relay or temperature control thermostat. But both (all) of these tested OK. I ordered a defrost timer because I concluded it was bad anyway. I unplugged the refrigerator again and left it off. Again, what else am I missing here?

Your response is kindly appreciated.

Regards

  • Gervan Williams asked 10 years ago
  • last active 10 years ago
0 votes
2k views

Washer filled, not overloaded..won’t agitate or drain water out, when time to spin, makes a loud buzzing noise..smells electrical hot….I have replaced water pump and hub and seal, bearings, belt and brake kit in 2008

  • Cathy Vargas asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

Amana refrigerator not cooling found evaportor fan motor not running check voltage at fan 53 volts present check heater/TS all good, replace TS anyway ran refri 15 minutes to loud TS to close still 53 Volts. If I replace one volt meter lead on fan terminal and the other lead to ground on refri body getting 120 volts. No tech sheet, can someone help with inform or tech sheet. Thanks

0 votes
2k views

This is a very old model with an electronic defrost control. The evaporator motor runs through the heater and defrost thermostat. A few months ago I had to replace the defrost t-stat for the same symptom. Is there a way to initiate an automatic defrost cycle on this model? How can I test this ADT? Someone was supposed to have changed it several months ago

  • Guest asked 7 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
0 votes
5k views

Final spin keeps flashing. Amana ntw4705ew1.

0 votes
2k views

When I push the High Speed Option the washer stops but if I push the Medium Speed button than it works fine. What do you think could be the problem? Thank you

  • Eureka asked 10 years ago
  • last active 10 years ago
0 votes
3k views

****Refrigerator is not cooling or staying cold….
I am not able to tell in frig has air /fan flowing… upper part feels warmer
freezer fan is running,
note***, Bottom freezer has had frost, back panel also appears to have ice build up in “grill” areas
Condenser Fan is running, have not checked if condenser is hot, or takin off panel but it sounds like it is running

Would really like to get a better idea the cause of problem what parts to price out to proceed.

Also I have contacted Sears, since that is where I purchased it….but my prefer a private repair person. (any suggestion?)

  • Cynthia Martinez asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

My Amana washer has no cold water into unit.

0 votes
1k views

Amana dishwasher doesn’t drain. It does wash. Water remains in bottom. Sounds like the pump is running when trying to drain. Model ADB1500ADS3

0 votes
3k views

The machine stopped and door is still locked and there is no power to the front panel. I’ve checked the circuit breaker and the outlet and there is power there. As I started to move the washer to work on it the power came on for a moment and displayed the (PF) code then powered off again. Which my manual says is “Electric service was lost when washer was running” Solution says to restart the cycle by pressing the cycle selector dial but as I said there is no power coming to the panel. I’m very mechanically inclined and to broke to call a repair person so I would love to do this myself if you could point me in the right direction. Any help you could provide would be awesome. Thank You!

John

  • John asked 10 years ago
  • last active 10 years ago
0 votes
6k views

I have a model Amana refrigerator and the refrigerator section went warm. We do not usually service the Whirlpool product lines usually sticking with Samsung, LG and GE as we are authorized for them and have access to their literature, etc.
Can anyone assist with some service information and any tips for this model? I understand looking at an exploded view that the unit is a single evaporator model with a damper control. Is there anything common that could cause the damper to malfunction or do you think I am even looking in the right area?

0 votes
3k views

I have an Amana Side by side that is not cooling the fans are working and the compressor kicks on and off but it nevers stays on more than about 10 seconds. I have applied a 3 in 1 supco hard start and replaces the defrost timer. what next

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
0 votes
1k views

One of the shelf supports on my Amanda microwave partially melted. I found and purchased a replacement. How do I remove the old support. Can I pry it off with a screw driver? Will this damage the interior. The shelf support part number is 2080030.

  • Guest asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
3k views

After pushing the start button the washer acts like it’s trying to start then stops and then the lid lock LED flashes for about 5 minutes and unlocks. I’ve run it through the automatic test and it all works fine. I just got laid of and can’t afford to pay someone to fix this and can usually fix most things on my own but I’m stumped with this. I’ve tried to get the diagnostic codes but have failed everything. Not sure if I don’t understand how to get then or if it’s just not working. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

  • kirk rahm asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

The front right burner isn’t lighting or working at all. Does this come as an assembly? I think the entire base comes with the components/parts included but wanted to make sure first before ordering.

0 votes
2k views

the evaporator fan has power but will not run

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
0 votes
2k views

I was a little stumped when I was asked to walk a customer thru the actual process of a freezer defrost thermostat.
He wants to know step by step what a thermostat does and how it works.

  • Guest asked 7 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
0 votes
2k views

It quit freezing . Then the customer unplugged it. When I plugged it in the dispenser flap opened and closed and nothing else. When I press any button 88 88 and all the leds come on as long as I keep pressing the button and goes off when I release it. I can’t put it in any service mode.

Is one of the board’s bad? If so which one? What’s your advice?

  • Guest asked 5 years ago
  • last active 5 years ago
0 votes
3k views

About 1.5 weeks ago our freezer section started warming up, to the point where some things were frozen and others weren’t. We cleaned things up from the vents and adjusted the settings but it got worse, to the point where it wasn’t close to freezing a couple days ago, which is when I got serious about finding what was happening.

I took the back off and found the compressor fan had an obstruction which I removed (poor mouse, I have no idea how he got in the house as we’ve never seen any before), it span right up and I figured everything would be fine after that. Things were quite warm/hot near the fan but cooled off quickly after the fan was working. The fan spins fast and has great airflow, there wasn’t much dust so I cleaned up it, put the cover back on, and left it running overnight.

The next day the freezer was barely cooler than room temperature. I removed the back panel in the freezer and found a big chunk of ice around the top/beginning of the evaporator unit (big meaning perhaps 3 inches in diameter in an oval shape), a little frost on the pipe leading to the radiator but only a little at the beginning of the radiator. I turned it off for a couple hours to let it all melt away.

After it had melted I turned it back on, a couple hours later the beginning of the radiator has a tiny bit of frost but very little actual cooling happening.

A friend who has more experience than I (and a clamp-on ammeter) checked the compressor and we can hear the relay click on and it will stay on using about 10 amps for about 10 seconds and then click off for a few minutes, repeat. Otherwise the compressor fan and evaporator fans are working fine, we just have no cooling. My friends thought is it is the compressor, perhaps locked up from getting too hot.

Any other things to try or is it time to get a new fridge? Thanks for any advice.

  • Airin asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

This washer will not wash or spin & drain. can every one help?

  • Guest asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
2k views

My Amana refrigerator is not cooling in the FF section and also has ice build up in the bottom of the freezer.

0 votes
1k views

GOOD EVENING. THE UNIT WILL LIGHT, BUT ONLY FOR ABOUT 3 TO 4 SECONDS. I GET AN OHMS READING ON THE GLOW STICK OF 90. I TESTED ALL THE THERMOS AND THE FLAME SENSOR AND THEY HAVE CONTINUITY. I JUMPED THE FLAME SENSOR AND THE GLOW STICK WORKED BUT IT WOULD NOT ENGAGE THE GAS SOLINOIDS AND NOT LIGHT UNTIL I PULLED OFF THE JUMPER. I WAS THINKING THAT THE GAS SOLINOIDS ARE BAD AND LETTING GO AFTER IT LIGHTS UP BUT I AM NOT 100%. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT AS I DO NOT KNOW WHAT PART TO BUY.. THANKS, TODD FROM NY.

  • Guest asked 7 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
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