Brand: Frigidaire

At first it was draining while it was filling. Then after ordering the drain valve and pump it began working OK for a few months. Then the customer called back and said it wasn’t cleaning well again. I found it was out of position and tilted forward and I leveled it up. Now it is not cleaning well and the tech sheet was in the customers records and can’t be located. I need so pointers on this one. It is as hard a Bosh DW.

so the machine stopped mid cycle full of water
i checked the lid switch its good.
nothing happends when i change the cycle

the unit has a fairly new drain pump and i cleaned out the drain as well like 2 months ago
the customer called to say he has the same problem. the clothes dont ring out well

it is an electric dryer.
the drum turns but will not heat

it takes a few minutes for it to start working.
and then it will only dispense water it will not drain and the water will leak from the bottom of the door.
i did check the drain and line they are both good

The water supply is good. The voltage to the primary valve at the brown harness is only 66vac. Isn’t it supposed to be 120vac? The voltage to the dispenser silnoid it 120. I tested the triac at the brown harness tan/yellow and the blue harness at the yellow and blew and it checks good. Is that a proper way to test it? Does the voltage supply come through the main power board? If so then is it the problem? Any advice?

i changed the drain pump because it would leave a pool of water in the tube after a wash and the drain was clean.
now after a normal cycle there is still water in the tub. and i need to put it into spine cycle to drain it

what is the easy way to replace the water valve?

THE DATA PLATE IS ILLEGIBLE FOR THE MOST PART. THAT MODEL NUMBER IS WHAT I THINK IT READS. I NEED TO KNOW THE CORRECT REFRIGERANT CHARGE TO WEIGH BACK INTO THE UNIT.

TX

I replaced the dispenser module first and that didn’t help at all. Then I reinstalled the old one and replaced the main control board, and that seemed to fix it then after three trouble free days then it started again. Now what do I do? Is the display a possible cause? It is almost $500.00. Any other ways to try to determine what is the problem?

This customer I have is a very good lawyer and talked with Frigidaire and they told him that a compressor vibration is causing this problem. I haven’t tried the dispenser board yet waiting for him to talk to Frigidaire. Do you have any idea what they may be talking about? Is it the harness or a wiring issue they are referring to or was it just this manager trying to get him off the phone?

Auto matic defrost control replaced, which looks like to me controls the defrost and damper control. Damper is wide open and isn’t working right. they don’t tell you how the control works with the new control board. There is no schematic. Also it doen’t tell you the resistance the damper control motor should be. No way to tell if the motor is good or the damper contol know is bad.

Customer did a total meltdown and problem still remains. Freezer temp is 0 degrees and fridge is at 24 degrees. Water line frozen again.

Service Manual ?

The Door switch is good and if I unplug the interface then plug it back in it will clear for 15 second but still won’t respont to any commands. The power has been turned off for several minutes and makes no difference.

The tech sheet does not show any error codes. Do the 3 blinking led’s mean any thing. IF so , what?
Is there a manual for this.

when I put the machine into spin it sounds like the engine of a plane taking off

WATER IS DRIPPING INTO THE TUB WHEN THE UNIT IS NOT IN USE. IF I TURN THE WATER VALVE OFF THE WATER WILL STOP DRIPPING, I BELIEVE ITS THE WATER INLET VALVE, AND THE PART NUMBER IS 137465101
BEING THAT IT IS A STACK ABLE UNIT ITS A BIT HARD TO GET BACK THERE AND WORK ON IT. WHAT WILL BE THE BEST WAY TO CHANGE IT AND YOU HAVE A VIDEO ON IT

THANKS

Water wont drain all way out of tub just stays in tub..When its trying to drain I can hear something making like a rattling noise and I can tell the pump is trying to work..

I am having trouble repairing this stackable.

The issue is due to the washer cycle not going through all the way. Initially the error code said a lid switch fault a couple months ago. We replaced the lid switch a few months ago and worked fine, then the issue popped up again which the control board was replaced. Now the washer will go into the cycle not draining and the lid is still locked and not opening. We replaced the actuator, both the control panel board and the washer main board and lid lock. I am unsure on what else the issue could be as no error codes pop up and this will only happen intermittently.

Regards!
The problem with the refrigerator is that the evaporator fan motor is not working because it does not reach 120 volts. When you check with the voltmeter the voltage that reaches you is around 22 volts. I Check the electrical diagram that is located on the bottom of the refrigerator and the 120 volts leaves the Beta Control terminal J1-6 and also indicates on a “Beta Codes” that has the refrigerator by
example, the first one indicates “2” Flashing- Open Thermistor. Ok, what I want to know is how to provoke the exercise so that the refrigerator makes the self-diagnostic. I already checked the 2 sensors and they gave me around 8 and 9 ohms and I gave them heat with a blower and both sensors changed from ohms to 3 y 4 ohms.

I have changed the water valve and it still freezes up. I have ran the diagnostics and the ice room temperature sensor is good, showing 3 degrees. The icemaker test is good. When I de ice the fill tube it will work and make ice for less than a day then refreeze.
It has done this 3 times.

The first time I found it froze and tried to run the diagnostics it would not work until I unplugged it and restarted it then it was ok.
What is causing this problem. The FILTER is good and so is the water pressure.
Is there a service bulletin on this or some other issue?
Or what?

GOOD MORNING. I AM TOLD THE DRYER RUNS FOR ABOUT 15 MINUTES THEN MAKES A LOUD BUZZING SOUND THEN STOPS THE CYCLE. THE DRYER DOES HEAT DURING THAT TIME. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. ALSO, THE DRYER WASHER STACK IS LOCATED IN A CLOSET IN FRONT OF NEW TILE, IS THIS REPAIR DOABLE WITH OUT MOVING THE UNIT? THANKS, TODD FROM NY.

Order the Module, dispenser – part 242074204 which they substitute with part 24074216. The part looks a little different but the big issue is the wiring harness is totally different. So what do you do with a part like this?

do you have the wiring diagram for this unit?

i have a frigidaire not cooling on the food side, air vent blowing on top where the electronic control board assembly that connected with water filter the vent is clear no ice block, at bottom of refrigerator vent clear no ice block. on the freezer side, i open it and see evaporator coil ice build up. iIdefrost ice and check the bimetal thermostat, heating element and evaporator fan all working and has continuity about 2 hours later frost and ice begin to build up again, i suspect is the electronic control board, can you please help with proper diagnose method to pinpoint the defected parts.

I have replace door lock and door switch the washer door still buzzes when I close it doesn’t lock and start what could be the next problem these parts are brand-new do you think I could have a defective part or is there something else I need to check.

FRIGIDAIRE LP Gas stove, #FGF368GMH, the customer says when she uses the oven, it makes a boom sound. The customer ran the LP tank empty and after filling the tank, the noise started. When I take the cover off the burner, it is sooted up. Watching the bake burner, when it lights, only the rear two inches of the burner lights. I inspected the bake burner for restrictions, but the ports are clear. The stove top burners work fine with proper blue flame with occasional yellow tip.
I checked the oven bake orifice, it is clear. I suspect some type of contaminate is restricting gas to the bake burner. I have never replaced a gas regulator or gas valve before. How can I prove it is one or the other? Is there some type of screen in either one of these that could become blocked? If so, is this something I can clean.Since the stove top burners operate fine, should I focus on the gas valve?

The washer will try to shift to agitate but seems to get stuck.
It will not let me enter diagnostics so I can check the error code. What is the trick?
Is this the actuator or the motor?
Does this motor have a built in clutch or can it be charged? This is a Frigidaire