Brand: GE (General Electric)

The microwave / convection oven was purchased new in 2011. Everything works properly as far as heating and turning are concerned. However – when it is OFF and the door is closed it hums. The display works, the thermal cut-off is good, the magnetron gives a good reading – the transformer gives me 120v across and the capacitor tests ok. The door switch shuts off when opened. This happened once before – I replaced the magnetron but it did not change anything. I put the old magnetron back in and for some reason a few days later it started working and has worked for about a year – until a few days ago when it started the same symptom. I still have the replacement magnetron which I have swapped out, but the result is the same. I have been unable to find anything on the web with the same symptom – there is no grind and the turntable works great. As long as we leave the door open when it is off there is no problem, and when we put food in and turn it on it works properly. We are just afraid if we leave the door closed something will catch fire.

I just replaced the upper bearing arm (thanks to your video). However, now I have a rubbing noise? Any suggestions?

My dryer is making this weird ticking noise and not starting. What is that?

I replaced the refrigerator main board and it doesn’t work Is my fridge completely dead?

I replaced the clock oven control unit with a like part. Made all connections same way as on old part.
Still no heating to burners or oven. Clock will light and ask to reset time, but goes off when turn off the knobs to burner.
Is there some other part that could be bad.

No heat to burners or oven,

Our refrigerator is not staying cold and the freezer has quit as well. We don’t hear any fans running, and I’m pretty positive the compressor is not coming on either. Is it dead? Do I need a new one? Where should I begin in finding the problem?

I watched your video where u replace to top part of the inside of the door but do u have a video on how to replace the belt. Also do u have video on the washing machine that was in the video on how to replace the bearings

Can’t seem to figure out whats going on with it, checked the element, fuse, thermostat, venting, and even cleared blower housing. But won’t heat up. Any help? about ready to give up.

Also, pretty sure it’s the coils? Figured I should double check that with you.

Hi – I recently replaced motherboard, thermostat and Frzr thermistor due to defrosting issue on my GE PSS26SGRBSS. The heater reads 23 ohms and it is defrosting properly. Everything works on the fridge, however it stays on constantly (evap & condenser fans on), except during the defrost cycle. I took thermistors’ measurements in cold ice water and they were within the 16.1K ohm range. Placed thermometer in both cabins and the readings matched what’s on the fridge display. Even though the thermistors’ resistance is within the range, could they still be bad (i.e. not communicating correctly with the motherboard)? The unit cools down to set temp, but seems to take long time. Could you please help?

I have a GE Profile side-by-side refrigerator (model number PSS25SGMDBS) which suddenly quit holding temperature. The input buttons on the control panel in the fresh food side wouldn’t take any input to dial the temperature up or down. I replaced this temperature control board (part number WR55X10120). When I plugged it back in the freezer and fresh food temperature displays each read ‘555’.

The + /- input buttons will dial up and down but the readings are still in three digits (444,333,222, etc). Incidentally, the + button lowers the number and the – button increase the number.

Is this indicative of another issue or is there a button sequence that I need to press to reset the system?

I have replaced the defrost heater and thermostat and I still have trouble with the unit not defrosting. Is there a way to force the control board into defrost to check/test the defrost circuit? I’m not a GE dealer so I don’t have tech support available to me like I do with Frigidaire. I own a small appliance store and have an account with Marcone and Sundberg. Can you give me any support? Thank you David Little 217-452-3219

Model # PFSS5PJXCSS LED light not working. What powers the light?

My GE oven doesn’t seem to be cooking correctly. It beeped like it preheated, but when I put dinner in last night it didn’t cook it. Hours later it still wasn’t done. Burners on top work fine, checked to make sure it was getting gas. Maybe a thermostat?

Fans are working, door switches are working. Compressor has good continuity, resistance values are 5, 7 and 11 ohms. I’ve replaced the PTCR relay and overload. Run capacitor measures 12 uf. When I plug into wall, the compressor tries to start and immediately shuts off. I hear a clicking on the mother board; both, when powering on and again after unplugging. Is there a way I can test the mother board before purchasing a new one or does the clicking indicate a bad component on the board?

This model has a single digit temp. control for freezer and fridge – each has “colder”, “warmer” buttons. I don’t know how to get into diagnostics mode; but, would this tell me what is wrong?

My husband is trying to figure out our refrigerator problem. He says he ohmed the compressor and it is good, and main board seems fine as well. He spent all day yesterday checking the fans, the heater, timer, and thermostat. What are we missing? Really don’t want to buy a new one right now. Please help!

What should I check? Got the panels off and am not sure what to look for. Pulled up the parts schematic from your site and can get a visual from that I think if needed. Couldn’t find any videos specific to my model. Thanks.

I can’t select cycles or adjust it using any of the buttons, sometimes it lights up, other times it won’t come on at all. Is this something my husband could fix? Appliance shopping is the last thing I want to do right now.

dryer is new an d been ib use fir a couole months.

the control panel says clean lint filter and only runs for 5 minutes. the lint filter is clean. also it seems the top of the dryer is warm

I have a frig that’s low on 134a. What should my suction pressure be ?

Power on key pad functions, oven light works. I checked oven sensor, both elements resistance within tolerance. I can hear relays cycling continuously ever 5secs, but elements and oven don’t heat.

Model-GZ25FSRXYY2
Serial-K22419304
Ice maker when I removed it had a full/frozen fill cup, ejector arm at 5 o’clock stuck at little ice bits. Cleared, installed, put power to. unit advanced to freeze position but gave no ice after 5hrs. Where would you guys point me on this critter? Ice maker in frig section. freezer is cold enough.
Thanks,

GE Stove This model has a pilot light and pilot gets bigger when oven is turned on but the burner does not light.

GE Wall Oven Double m#JTP56WD1WW
I replaced the main control board and bake element. The oven calibrated fine, worked for a couple of batches of cookies, now when I set bake to 375, it does not get above 270

Can I just fix or adhere the existing seal in place or will I have to replace the entire thing? Couldn’t find a video for my model#. Thanks.