Brand: Maytag

I’m looking for service manual and schematic.

When i depress the start button it blinks 3 times then nothing.

Maytag top load. Wont power up. Has F6 E2 code. Communication error between UI and ACU. Has 120v to Main board. Light on main board is flashing signifying 5VDC present. Tech sheet says preform key activation and encoder test (passed) and check for voltage to main board. All good. I m thinking UI is bad. What do you think?

I have a dryer that will not start that kicks out a e5 error. I think its an E looks like an E with the top line gone

I have side by side Maytag Fridge. I have installed a new jazz board as per your video instructions. Everything is working in fridge (lights etc) except I have no digital display on the control monitor. I have closed door, pushed the other light switch of by hand, hit the freezer control down button 3 times, released light switch and nothing happens on the digital readout. What is up with this, how do I get it to work properly?

We replaced the master controller board and followed instructions to program the the refrigerator. When entering last number and pressing the final key the frig beeps instead of temparature lights showing up. What is still wrong?

Hello, My Maytag french door refrigerator control panel was blinking and the ice machine flap was clicking. After several days, the refrigerator stopped cooling. I watched your very helpful video on how to replace the HV Control Board ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwoLQdcFv1Y&feature=youtu.be). I ordered the replacement board and did the repair myself. The interface stopped blinking and the fridge is cooling again. However, now the ice machine will randomly start dispensing ice into the door with out being prompted. I’ve had to turn off the ice machine so I don’t have a bunch of ice in the door and therefore dealing with leaking (it still attempts to dispense randomly with out any ice). Please help! Thanks!

Customer ice dispenser makes a grinding noise when depressed. The ice dispenser works well without the noise.

washer spins out to 8 min and pops up e3 code .possible repairs for this

Ice maker leaks water inside ice room when filling up. I have replaced the ice maker and the water valves. Any suggestions

removed bottom panel and manually unlocked door, tried cycles, will fill & drain, will not tumble, once door locks can only unlock manually, I think it is the lock assembly, ordered part, worried that motor didn’t tumble? any suggestion?
Thank You
Joe

SO THE UNIT WILL FILL WITH WATER ..
WHEN I OPEN THE DOOR IT WILL STOP FILLING. SO I KNOW THE LID SWITCH IS WORKING
WHEN I PUT IT TO SPIN OR AGITATE NOTHING HAPPENS. I DONT EVAN HEAR THE MOTOR TRYING TO RUN.
I CHANGED THE TIMER AND IT STILL WILL NOT WORK
I CHECKED THE MOTOR AND I AM NOT GETTING ANY POWER TO THE MOTOR
THE CAPACITOR TESTED FINE

i cleaned the drain, there was debris inside however the customer says he gets the error at least once a day and has to reset the machine to use it

GOOD EVENING. THE ORIGINAL COMPLAINT WAS THAT THE CLOTHING WAS NOT DRYING. THREE WEEKS AGO I TOOK APART THE DRYER AND FOUND THE BELT AND PULLEY OFF OF THE BLOWER. I PUT IT BACK TOGETHER AND SHE WORKED FINE FOR THREE WEEKS. I THEN GET A CALL SAYING THE BLOWER IS WORKING BUT UNIT IS NOT HEATING. I TOOK IT APART AGAIN AND FOUND THAT FIRST THE DRYER THERMAL CUT OFF DID NOT HAVE CONTINUITY. I HAPPENED TO HAVE A USED THERMAL CUT OFF THAT SEEMED TO MATCH. THE ONLY DIFFERENCE I FOUND WAS THE ORIGINAL HAD AN 352F ON IT AND THE NEW USED HAD A 309F. I PUT IT IN AND SHE LIT UP, BUT ONLY STAYED ON FOR ABOUT 6 SECONDS, NEVER IGNITING AFTER THAT NO MATTER HOW LONG IT RAN. AT THIS POINT I TESTED THE DRYER THERMOSTAT AND IT DID NOT HAVE CONTINUITY. I HAPPENED TO HAVE A NEW USED ONE THAT WAS ONLY 5 DEGREES HIGHER (265 – 270). PUT IT IN AND EVERYTHING WORKED WELL. TWO LOADS WHERE DRIED THAT NIGHT, BUT THE NEXT MORNING SHE WILL NOT HEAT AGAIN. THE ONLY OTHER POINT WOULD BE THE DRYER WAS RUN A LOT WHEN THE BLOWER WAS NOT WORKING. I NEVER WORKED ON A DRYER WITH THE STEAM ASSISTANT. AM I MISSING SOMETHING THERE, OR SOMETHING ELSE? HELP!!!!!!!!!!! TODD FROM NY

I need to replace tub assembly with drive shaft part # w10381078. I have a parts breakdown , I need service manual or video for this washer.

Washer fills then stops.
I manually turn timer 1 notch for the machine to proceed, it then turns and stops
Machine won’t start cycle or agitate.
I turn timer to Spin cycle, It will only drain and won’t spin.

Fridge is 33 degrees freezer is 31. Tested sensors ohm out good fan motor will not start up. I believe it is the board but would like to put fridge in diagnose mode to verify. Not familiar with digital exterior display diagnosis mode, unlike Jazz board models. Can you please help?

The error code uL comes up every time the machine is used even when there is nothing in it. I tried a new rps sensor and didn’t fix the problem. I’m thinking it may be the main board. looking for help with this one.
Thanks, Charley

Need a parts break down for this old refrigerator.

The controls on this refrigerator are doing strange things like when the dispenser is pushed the alarm sounds,or when pushing the freezer temp buttons the dispenser door opens and closes. When any button is pushed all the display LEDs lite, and the compressor and fans will not run. I am also not able to locate the wiring diagram. I have replaced the user interface pad and board to achieve the same end result I started with. Any help would be great.

It started when wife did load of clothes and after machine stopped everything was still wet. When I removed clothes I thought that she had it overloaded. Then checked for codes and got an F7 and an F5 code and not sure how long they were there. I Followed the proceedure in the Service Manual to clear codes and run diagnostic. Codes are now clear and not coming back but I don’t think that I am actually getting it in diagnostic mode. I can get the 88 on the screen but then nothing else happens and I also cannot even find the way to manually test. Anyway I did an ohm test on Motor all terminals at 5.9 ohms which is good. Also checked the 2 motor control wires which also checked out good at approximately 117 ohm. When doing a wash, when washer gets to point where the tub would turn It has a slight jump and then nothing. I am sure the motor is good. Also checked the ground wires and they seem okay but one of them goes to the back of tub and that whole area is rusted I get continuity at the wire but not when I touch the rusted area. I have noticed by reading all these that a lot of people have trouble with the diagnostics and that is the first thing I want to make sure that I can make happen. Thank you and hope you can answer this by what I have provided.

After a wash or rinse cycle the drain hose will squirt water for a few seconds and the system then stops.
I can manually drain the washer and if I hit the timer spot right after a timer rotation the next segment will run until it hits the drain phase. If I manually drain the rinse cycle the spin cycle will complete normally, including draining its water. The drain hoses seem clear, and if I lower the washer’s drain hose to the floor I get a dramatic fountain of water.
I confirmed everything underneath turns freely. Replaced the belts on principal because they were 22 years old. Ohm checked the lid switch and it seems fine. Replaced the lid switch because it is so universally damned and no so expensive. The new one ohms out fine. Response to opening and closing the lid while running is fine.
Using my meter on the pressure switch it correctly identifies full and empty. Reads full after the drain cycle aborts.
The motor does not feel particularly warm.
Dryer is level.
When running generally sounds very smooth.
What else do I need to check/tell you?

Washer was making a loud squeaking noise and then stopped. Washer will fill up with water but then will do nothing. I love the videos but I have not found that addresses a washer that does not spin at all.

I’VE had this machine for 4 years.
when I pick any of the various wash cycles its starts out fine but when the count down time gets around (9-1) the washing cycle know starts flashing and a 5 d codes appears.
It wont spin , drain or complete its cycle when I hit the start cycle sometimes it restarts or just keeps flashing.
I occasionally I get the UL code too I check the load and it restarts and sometimes it doesn’t just would like to know what it could it be or is it worth getting fixed.

Thank You
Mark

This unit is just over a year old. The unit usually wont start unless after messing with setting or cycles. We have cleaned out the dryer vent, and cleaned the unit out for all lint. What could cause a unit to intermittently not start?

Will not light.

My dryer runs and heats up as expected in timed modes. However, in REGULAR mode (or automatic mode), it runs normal too, but the heat stops “heating” after about 5 minutes of being turned on. The Dryer LED indicator still shows it is drying with heat. It hasn’t even entered the cool mode yet. The clothes do not dry completely.

I have replaced the 4″ vent duct with a new clean duct. I cleaned and vacuumed the inside of the dryer too, including internal duct parts. Air blasted the blower blades. I removed the plastic filter housing and pressure washed the insides perfectly clean. Air flow is very plentiful. Looks brand new. Since I do HVAC as a living, I checked the following components: Radiant sensor, Thermostat (gas flame), Thermal fuse, Thermistor and Thermostat (dryer side). I cleaned all of them properly.

My conclusion is, that the thermistor (reading 10K ohms at room temperature) could be bad since I do not know for sure what it is supposed to read at different temperatures and it is a sensor that is directly exposed to the elements inside the dryer. I paid special attention on cleaning it, suspecting that it may have a bi-metal surface in contact with lint and moisture.

My other concern is the two “moisture sensors” (cathodes?). They look clean (and I wiped them down with water and a clean cloth) and I made sure that the blue wires are not loose when re-attaching them. How can two pieces of clean metal go bad? They look like stainless steel. To narrow the problem down, I thought about jumping the two blue wires, by-passing the moisture sensor plates to simulate a constant presence of moisture, but didn’t want to do any possible damage. My second thought was to place a wet sponge securely across the two plates to see if any improvement is noticed during a test run.

Lastly, the unlikely problem could be the electronics within the circuit board.

What do I need to do to positively find out what the problem is so I can fix the dryer?
Your reply is deeply appreciated.
Regards, Patrick Kieran.

the motor is having a hard time turning Evan with out the belts on
i believe i need a new motor.
can you please provide me with info on how to change it

Washer recently had lid switch replaced and pump replaced , since then it has been pounding hard during cycles .
now as of today all lights are lite up and cant turn anything on motor was really hot seems to be power to board can this be a motor issue