Brand: Viking

Door will not stay closed,Dishwasher will not start

Door will not stay closed

Unit starts then stops

Will not fill, Leaking water

Water is cold, Unit will not run

Water will not drain, Leaks water

Bad smell from sump, Will not drain, Leaking water.

Will not fill with water, Humming noise, Error on display

Food is slow to cook, Food is undercooked, Food not cooking

Food is cooked unevenly, Error on display, Food is burnt

No Spark, Continual spark

Partial heat, Error on display, Not heating

Temps 100 degrees lower, Will not heat up all the way, No heat, Partially heating, Error on display.

Not Powering, Cannot set controls, Stove will not work, Displaying error code.

Keeps entering Diagnostics Mode.

Small left oven after a couple minutes of baking in any mode the clean light comes on steady and oven light Flashes three times. The cooling fan seem to be running fine from what I can hear and I looked at the big relay at the bottom of the oven for the small left oven that is having the problems and they look to be in perfect condition and all its connectors. Can I please have a diagnostic manual that will tell me what the flashes mean?

Costumer says Oven randomly shuts off while baking. I saw it shut off once after shutting it off every couple minutes and then restarting it so I never got to 350 even though that’s what it was said to but it randomly shut off after two minutes of running. I replace the DSI ignition module for the oven but the customer is saying that I did it again where it was getting significantly less warm in the oven in the oven just shut off. Can you guys please provide me with a wiring diagram and your technical input on what else could be regulating the system? I’m thinking that electronic thermostat that I saw there I would appreciate your guys input.

Initial problem was the condenser fan went out so when I got there replaced the condenser fan motor with a generic one That has worked perfect for me for on Sub-Zero before And cleaned the condenser very nicely meanwhile having it Unplugged for about 15 minutes. Customer called back said it’s not cooling still in the refrigerator section and VACUUM CONDENSER light on. Found system needs refrigerant. My guess is that there is a Freon leak in the evaporator although I did not see a ice formation on either trip And the customer said it stopped cooling overnight.
-So my question is does the condenser light come on for any issue? Isn’t there also a service light that should come up instead?
-What if the vacuum condenser light or service light Keeps coming back? I had a customer a year ago that wanted me to replace his compressor and exchanger with a generic one because it was readily available and the service light and error 40/50 kept returning even tho it was cooling perfectly.
Prefer technician input over paperwork.

Temperature probe ?

The initial complaint was that the refrigerator is freezing everything so when I showed up there thermistor and everything seem to be OK just a little bit enclosed in snow so I cleaned everything out make sure that leads are good and not shorting and try to reset the fridge but after me full and around with it it started flashing the temperature bars in sequence from left to right. Not sure what’s going on here seems like it’s in program mode but I didn’t put it into program mode all I did was clean the condenser plug everything back in and turn the fridge back on and leave. I figured the flashing would stop I’ve gotten it before when the door was open for too long.. Any suggestions on what I can do to reset the fridge to proper running order at least to over freezing like it was before I got there hah
THE DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE INSIDE ISNT VERY HELPFULL IT CATERS TO BOTH FREEZER AMD REFRIGERATOR VERSION OF THIS UNIT FOR THE MOST PART

Costumer says it flashes light and beeps even when door is closed every couple hours. Tested fresh food door switch seems fine. Cleaned condenser. Inspected the evaporator coils. Tested fresh food section thermistor seems fine. Condenser fan running. Only thing I can think to do is shotgun the job and replace the low voltage board which controls the tempeture, thermistor, and door switches.. any suggestions? Maybe freezer door switch? I never seen it fail before on a Viking..??

could you send me the manual of ice machine parts

I have had several of these Viking ranges where they have a gas Leak on the tube that leads from the safety valve on the gas manifold to the gas valve for the bake section of the range. I called biking and they gave me the wrong part number when I looked at the photo and I was wondering if somebody can provide me with the proper parts blow up so I can actually look at it myself. It’s a tube about 4 feet long.
IT IS NOT PART #PB002043

I watched this video on your site: https://www.appliancevideo.com/premiumotr/viking-stove-bake-element-oven-not-heating/

When i pulled the white wire and red wire spade connectors off i put a test to them and had 125 volts;
I hooked them back up to Bake element it was hard to get accurate reading on volt meter. It was kind of reading 20 volts? Would this mean my Bake element is bad ?

Moisture is building below the fridge I have seen this on several of the side-by-side Vikings the drain pan would be on the right side and there is a gutter that runs from the left side which is the freezer drain hole to the right side and it’s always really wet around the beginning of the gutter which is the bottom of the freezer side, it would be covered In really big droplets hanging down. The little axle fan located in the front right came on after resetting the fridge which I am assuming is to dry out the bottom of the unit. Do you guys have any ideas what could be causing this or what I can do? I put a cookie sheet there temporarily. Diagnostic mode didn’t tell me jack.
This unit does not have a drain pan heater but the drain pan is wet inside so I know water is getting in there and there is no water damage below the drain pan only wear those droplets are hanging from