I am trying to access the user interface behind the knob. I am not entirely sure that it is the main control. But the oven works with the keys but not knob. I was told it is a 90% chance it is the main control but I have no clue how to access the user interface at the top behind the knob. Please help
- kivery90 asked 4 months ago
- last active 4 months ago
-Replaced right side spark module twice now (CM didnt care about left side), Every time the oven is heated the whole top section gets extremely hot and spark module over heats causing sporadic clicking until it cools down an hour later
-Oven door shuts good
-Oven does NOT have a cooling fan because its a full gas range so no circuit boards to cool in back
-I put aluminum tape around spark module area directing the venting hot air away from the module housing
-I tried running the hood vent on maximum over the range to evacuate some heat, DIDNT help
I know the electric ignition one with the DSI ignition module has had a recall to install a cooling fan but this is a 13 year old range which the top of is over heating. Decently taken care of.. Any suggestions? I was thinking to run the module under the range to a cooler area but the micro switches on the valves are getting extremely hot too and brittle
- 123Surge123 asked 5 months ago
- last active 5 months ago
Viking range. Burners not clicking.
Model number vgsc3674qss.
A friend’s range. They said various burned clicked and didn’t light and finally none would light. I got there and none would click at all. I checked one of the spark switches and it had continuity when turned on. I cleaned that burner and still nothing, but I did not remove the base. The tiny screw holes were full of crap so I couldn’t even tell what kind of head was down there. I hope I don’t have to try to get them out!
I don’t want to order an expensive spark module until I’m sure what the problem is.
How should I troubleshoot this?
- lifelongappliance asked 10 months ago
- last active 10 months ago
First 5 minutes both burners fully lit flame with red nice tipping about 2.5″ in size, then left side starts to struggle and faintly sputter.
Been fixing the for 4 years now third time I come across this issue
When you put the thermostat in bake them turn off oven bake function doesn’t turn off meaning valve still open and bake burner going EVEN AFTER UNPLUGGING.
Naturally I thought maybe poor valve and swapped the bake and broil solenoids-didn’t do anything still WOULDN’T shut the gas off. So I had an exact ignition board DSI replacement and installed it. Still having issues shutting off. Came back replaced thermostat still doesn’t shut off…?? Super simple diagram loss like nothing left to replace unless my DSI ignition board was defective which it was new.
Oven was overshooting temperature significantly. You set it to 350f and it shoots up to 500f on an external thermostat. REPLACED thermostat with new one. Costumer still saying it over shoots about 150f. Is there any udjustability? There is no temp sensor only self clean timer thermostat probe and bake thermostat probe from the thermostat(replaced)
Recently did sealed system work. Because heat exchanger was leaking refrigerant. Replaced evaporator and heat exchanger. Heating loop below the fridge looks perfect. Condenser clean. Condenser fan motor running. Evaporator and all other fans seem to be running and everything is plugged in and running properly…
But the display is flashing certain temperature control bars. Which if I recall correctly is an error code. The FRZ light is flashing and light bar 3/4/5/6 keeps flashing in numerical sequence. What is this error code indicating?
Indicator does two flashes next to thermostat in between pauses. Checked DSI (oven spark module) and it tested good. Even popped a new one in for good measure no change. I’m suspecting the thermostat it also has some grease in it which I know Viking addressed with a kit. Can you guys get me the diagnostic guide MOST IMPORTANTLY THE FLASHING ERROR CODE guide.
- 123Surge123 asked 12 months ago
- last active 12 months ago
Verona range basically identical to a Bartezzoni. Oven itself is electric and has a thermostat and a large mechanical selector switch. After tampering with it the oven selector it started to work couple days later costumer said it failed to start. Any ideas on how these units operate? Seemed like a basic system and nothing burned or broken but seems to be failing.. thermostat? The large oven started to work after securing the leads on the selector switch.
- 123Surge123 asked 1 year ago
- last active 1 year ago
10yr old $10,000 viking that will not dispense water and slow ice production. water line inside of freezer door is frozen. freezer temp is normal,should I just replace ice maker? can the freezer door insulation become compromised? is there a water line heater in the door?
- davezrnich asked 1 year ago
- last active 1 year ago
My customer complains that the broil makes an explosion sound and she smells gas when she uses the broil, it does not happen all the time it just intermediate, when I tested it it was working fine. This model does not have ignitors just spark electrode on both bake and broil. Do guys experience any similar issue with this model?
She also mentioned that when it happens the spark electrode sparks once and then she doesn’t hear it anymore. When I was there it sparked 2-3 times and then lit up with no issues, I was there for 30 min and when the temp when down the broil lit up again with no issues
- bettertech asked 1 year ago
- last active 1 year ago
Will not fill with water, Humming noise, Error on display
Will not heat, Calibration is off, Error on display