0 votes
5 views

The door on my GE refrigerator is not closing properly.

0 votes
4 views

My GE refrigerator will not power on.

0 votes
6 views

My GE refrigerator is not making ice.

0 votes
4 views

My GE refrigerator is not cooling properly.

0 votes
14 views
0 votes
55 views

How to diagnose 3 way valve. No frost is going to fresh food evaporator. Freezer is normal and freezing.

0 votes
42 views

Yesterday my refrigerator completely quit working. The internal display was off, as well as the external. Only the internal lights worked. I reset the circuit breaker to see if the refrigerator would reset. Nothing. This morning the refrigerator is working – all display work and it is cooling and making ice. Why did it do this and how do I trouble shoot or repair?

  • Lyleric asked 1 week ago
  • last active 1 week ago
0 votes
58 views
  • csa58758 asked 3 weeks ago
  • last active 3 weeks ago
0 votes
108 views
0 votes
113 views

I have replaced the display panel already and the problem is persisting.
The digital user interface is inoperable. The light and temperature setting cannot be adjusted, also cannot dispense water or ice. Have replaced user interface and it worked for a week and then did the same thing and stopped working. If you unplug the refrigerator and plug it back in it works for 5 minutes then stops being responsive. The temperature is fine in the refrigerator and freezer. Would this be the main control board for the unit?

0 votes
116 views

We replaced a compressor in the refrigerator that wasn’t cooling at all. The freezer now is getting to -10 but the refrigerator wont get below 45. We replaced the evap fan motor, control board, and both dampers. checked all vents to look for obstructions found nothing. There seems to be no airflow into the refer from the freezer once the freezer door is closed but once it opens then it seems like it gets a lot more airflow. Is there any common airflow issue or any solution we haven’t addressed yet? Please advise

0 votes
114 views

The icemaker is not making ice. I have entered diagnostics mode and run test 99 and it successfully ejects ice from the tray and refills it but it does not do this on its own. When running test 00 (read codes) I also get an error 5 (Deli Pan Thermistor Invalid) and error 10 (FZ Icemaker Mold Body Thermistor (MB) Invalid) instantly after clearing the codes and rebooting (one instance zero days ago). I do not have a separate deli tray so that may be bug in the diagnostics software. When I run test 36 to check the temperature of the Icemaker Mold Body it says 31-32 degrees but the manuals state that this temperature must be below 15 or 16 degrees for it to initiate an ice making cycle. Do I need to replace the Mold Body thermistor?

  • suchko asked 2 months ago
  • last active 2 months ago
0 votes
103 views

Software rewrite keeps showing Up date failed, on the manual mode it doesn’t show compressor info as FLSO75LANA.

0 votes
116 views

Upon arrival the freezer was 5F and the fresh food (ff) section was 60F. Both condenser and evap fans were running. The freezer section had frost and snow on the ceiling and walls near the door. Inside the ff section the diffuser was iced over and there was moderate condensation on the ceiling, side walls and around the diffuser. The diffuser is manually adjusted and was broken (customer tried to adjust while it was frozen over). Also, both doors passed the dollar bill test for tightness.

  • jbarone1 asked 2 months ago
  • last active 2 months ago
0 votes
103 views

Is this caused by the board or motor.
It only does it several times a day and the rest of the time it’s ok.
The part number is WR60X1085
is there a way to check it?
IT IS A GE.

  • Pancakes asked 2 months ago
  • last active 2 months ago
0 votes
105 views

1)Customer call :refrigerator compressor wont stay on.
tech inspected the unit ,the compressor has power but quick on and about 3 second and shut off.tech decided to replace the entire compressor assembly.
Unit works for a 9 days and starts giving problem again show temperature freezer 22f and refrigerator 46 F.
unplugged it for 30 minute it works ok temperature 0 and 37
2)customer call back for the same problem after a week.
tech decided to replace the CONDENSER REPL. ASM WR84X10048 and REFRIGERATOR SUCTION TUBE CAP WR86X10021
the problem still not solve
do you have any idea what is going on ?

  • fritze01 asked 3 months ago
  • last active 3 months ago
0 votes
180 views

Snow-like frost build up on evaporator cover. Will take cover off and defrost, then two days later it is built back up again. It is not a frost pattern concurrent with the fridge being low on freon.

0 votes
147 views

Replaced icemaker, still no ice. 120 volts going to the icemaker

  • ed asked 3 months ago
  • last active 3 months ago
0 votes
127 views

Ice maker is making very little ice. On/off arm is moving slightly up & down and making a noise from the movement. Really irritating!

  • mdolliver1 asked 3 months ago
  • last active 3 months ago
0 votes
163 views

The water valves have been changed. Water pressure is good. The icemaker fill test #25 passed and the icemaker filled but will not on its own.
I noticed that the right hand refrigerator French door pops open when they shut the left hand door. Could this cause the ice room to be too warm and not make ice?
What else can cause this issue?
What else can I check?
How do I adjust the French doors to solve the problem of the door always coming ajar?
THIS IS A WHIRLPOOL REFRIGERATOR

  • Pancakes asked 3 months ago
  • last active 3 months ago
0 votes
160 views
  • daves28 asked 3 months ago
  • last active 3 months ago
0 votes
255 views

My lg refrigerator is not cooling nor freezing. I already check the deforst heater and the ohms are correct for both the freezer and the fresh food area. I havent been able to check the defrost sensor because not sure which reading i am looking for. I also need help to check the compressor.

  • Aleyrab asked 3 months ago
  • last active 3 months ago
0 votes
152 views

There is water pooled up underneath the freezer door. It is a line of water that follows the door width. There is no noticeable water inside the refrigerator compartment or the freezer. There is no noticeable frost buildup in the freezer. There is no water on the floor underneath or in the back. What could be the cause and fix of this line of water pooled up under the freezer door in the front?

0 votes
173 views

The refrigerator is sweating alot of water on the ice bin and the entire assembly there is cooling but it has alot of water why is doing that what part it needs to be replaced there

  • Cocoazul20 asked 4 months ago
  • last active 4 months ago
0 votes
224 views

both compartments are not cooling. there is no frost build up, the drain is not clogged. The compressor runs, the fans run, the coils are clean. The thermostat turns the compressor on and off. Sounds to me like the thermostat is working but I don’t know how to test it. I don’t know if the refrigerator has a control board. I think it might have a faulty thermostat or its low on refrigerant. Do you guys have training on sealed systems? I haven’t tried any repairs. I saw one of your videos with a universal temp control, do you sell those or where can I get one?

  • ragarcia asked 4 months ago
  • last active 4 months ago
0 votes
166 views

hi we check a sxs samsung refrigerator costumer complaint the seccion of vegytable is frozen all the food milk and egg costumer says somentime work normaly and somentime frozzen againg and says sometime make loud noise on back of refrigerator

  • javis35 asked 4 months ago
  • last active 4 months ago
0 votes
183 views

Basically what refrigerator was doing was I would hear a click, loud buzz for 3 seconds, then another click. 2 minutes later, same thing…. and it would repeat this over and over.

I took the backing off the refrigerator and the compressor is really really hot to touch. At this point, the compressor is not running but the fans are still running, so it quickly heats up the air in unit.

So I thought it was the relay (thing attached to side of compressor), but here’s the thing…

I left the unit off all night… of course the compressor wasn’t warm anymore… I plugged it in and I heard the click and compressor started. It ran for over an hour straight without a problem and cooled the temperature to 0.
Then it shut off normally b/c air was at 0 degrees inside it. I felt the compressor throughout the hour and it slowly kept heating up and heating up to the point where it would probably burn if you left your hand on it…but obviously not hot enough for the heat relay (don’t know the name) to engage and shut it off.

Then about 20 minutes later, it tried to start… I heard the click, long buzz, click and then the fans started but not the compressor…

SO….. is my compressor bad b/c it’s hot to the touch or is it still my relay thingy. it looks like it’s a 2 pronged unit that plugs into the prongs on the compressor but it is SUCH a tight fit on the left side of the refrigerator it’s going to be a bear to take out of there. there is a copper tubing right in the way too.

Any help would be appreciated.

The refrigerator is 18 years old but if it’s just a relay…..I might just fix it, but if it’s the compressor, I might as well get a new refrigerator

  • floats09 asked 4 months ago
  • last active 4 months ago
1 vote
216 views

SAMSUNG FAMILY HUB . this is the first time i come across this fancy fridges.customer complains that fridge is cold but freezer is not working I looked at it and there is no frost or any indication of cold . seems like compressor inn not supplying gas to freezer side .what do you think I should do and where to look for problem ? thanks

  • arman asked 5 months ago
  • last active 4 months ago
1 vote
151 views

installed main control board #W10890094 and went to follow steps to reprogram with code inside of door and the display lights are just flashing and will not let me enter Programming mode, there is no numbers displaying just light flashing of lights. With my old board you can see the numbers bright like always no flashing

1 vote
256 views

So I have this LG French door refrigerator. After a filter change it stopped getting cold enough to freeze and the refrigerator isn’t getting as cold as it’s set to. The freezer is getting to 48 degrees, the refrigerator is getting to pretty much the same, so something is working.

Take the lower cover off and clean up the coils and fan. I bumped the drain tube and it started spewing water out of the top. Let it finish draining, took the tube off and found a glob of something in there, so it was likely blocked (it was building up ice on the inside of the freezer that would have to be cleaned out from time to time). Hoped that would be the extent of things. Ran for about a day with no change.

Took the electronics cover off, the boards looked good as in no burnt stuff, fuses intact. Ran the first stage of the diagnostics and the display lit up everything. Fan running, I believe the compressor was running. Hard to tell with these linear condensers. It had a slight vibration to it. Second stage of the diagnostics, gave a 22 code on the front. Went to stage 3, fan and I’m guessing the compressor shut off like it was supposed to. Great. Reset everything and it comes back to life, fan running and slight vibration to the compressor. I will note the compressor did get warmer and i could feel a bit of cold in the copper.

After looking up the code and doing some research I’m thinking ok this is cake. So I take the lower panel back off and go to look at what I’m dealing with before I buy parts. well this model does NOT have a compressor relay. It’s got a compressor wire harness. @#%$@@%#$%^%

How do I fix an error 22 on this? or is the compressor junk?

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