Repair Help

The spark ignitor clicks and the bake burner comes on but the spark ignitor continues to spark for about 20 seconds
then the burner and spark ignitor stops. Then it retires every 1 to 2 minutes

What is the issue here?
In the diagnostic mode it showed F6E0.
This is a communication problem.
I tested the harness between the interface and the control. It was good.
I unplugged the unit and cleared the code but the BAKE still does the same thing.
In your experience what is causing this?
The ground is hooked up.

The refrigerator is sweating alot of water on the ice bin and the entire assembly there is cooling but it has alot of water why is doing that what part it needs to be replaced there

both compartments are not cooling. there is no frost build up, the drain is not clogged. The compressor runs, the fans run, the coils are clean. The thermostat turns the compressor on and off. Sounds to me like the thermostat is working but I don’t know how to test it. I don’t know if the refrigerator has a control board. I think it might have a faulty thermostat or its low on refrigerant. Do you guys have training on sealed systems? I haven’t tried any repairs. I saw one of your videos with a universal temp control, do you sell those or where can I get one?

The dishwasher stopped cleaning. I determined it was not filling with water. I found the screen on the inlet valve was plugged. I removed it and cleaned it out. It now fills with water but when it gets to what would be the wash cycle it just sits for a few minutes and then goes to the drain cycle. I have unhooked the power to reset it and still has the same problem. I also added more water to it to make sure it wasn’t a water level issue and it still will not go to the wash cycle.

Hello, the dishwasher is leaking during cycle on the bottom left side of door, there is a small black plastic flap? About 6 inches in length is the location where it drips from.
I don’t know if the leak is relative, but my dishes aren’t drying either, there is still water on dishes and such after the “Quick and Dry” cycle has completed???

The display is blank and won’t respond to commands
Voltage is good.

hi we check a sxs samsung refrigerator costumer complaint the seccion of vegytable is frozen all the food milk and egg costumer says somentime work normaly and somentime frozzen againg and says sometime make loud noise on back of refrigerator

Basically what refrigerator was doing was I would hear a click, loud buzz for 3 seconds, then another click. 2 minutes later, same thing…. and it would repeat this over and over.

I took the backing off the refrigerator and the compressor is really really hot to touch. At this point, the compressor is not running but the fans are still running, so it quickly heats up the air in unit.

So I thought it was the relay (thing attached to side of compressor), but here’s the thing…

I left the unit off all night… of course the compressor wasn’t warm anymore… I plugged it in and I heard the click and compressor started. It ran for over an hour straight without a problem and cooled the temperature to 0.
Then it shut off normally b/c air was at 0 degrees inside it. I felt the compressor throughout the hour and it slowly kept heating up and heating up to the point where it would probably burn if you left your hand on it…but obviously not hot enough for the heat relay (don’t know the name) to engage and shut it off.

Then about 20 minutes later, it tried to start… I heard the click, long buzz, click and then the fans started but not the compressor…

SO….. is my compressor bad b/c it’s hot to the touch or is it still my relay thingy. it looks like it’s a 2 pronged unit that plugs into the prongs on the compressor but it is SUCH a tight fit on the left side of the refrigerator it’s going to be a bear to take out of there. there is a copper tubing right in the way too.

Any help would be appreciated.

The refrigerator is 18 years old but if it’s just a relay…..I might just fix it, but if it’s the compressor, I might as well get a new refrigerator

Unit has no power. What do I look for and if it is the timer how do I test the timer.

I need the tech sheet so I can do diagnostics.
What is the most likely reason for this model to stop producing ice

My customer has a Jenn Air Refrigerator that we already have done several things to to try and stop this drawer from getting too cold.

The brand is an Electrolux/Frigidaire. I have diagnosed unit as having a bad condenser fan and fan motor. Most units i have worked on have the condenser fan and motor to the left or right of the condenser. This unit is called a Professional series. The condenser fan and motor are located behind the condenser if viewing from the rear of the unit. I am stumped as to how to remove the condenser fan and fan motor. HELP

I changed the infinite switch and it did the same thing.
If I begin on low it will heat and cut off but will not come back on even after 10 minutes. If I turn it off and then back on it repeats the same cycle. It will stay on high. If I set it on 3 or 4 it does the same.
Can this be the sensor in the burner?
How does it work?
It doesn’t matter if I use the single or dual settings.

Not spinning fast enough at full speed on spin cycle, seems to drain fine, clothes come out soaking wet

We had a power outage last night during a thunderstorm and this morning the interior lights work, but that is the only function working. The “cubed ice” icon is blinking. The compressor is not running, nor is the condenser fan. I have my digital multimeter out and am wondering what the ranges would be for the output of the transformer which seems to supply the control board. What is more likely- a fried transformer from a power surge or fried control board from a power surge?