Repair Help

I need the tech sheet so I can do diagnostics.
What is the most likely reason for this model to stop producing ice

My customer has a Jenn Air Refrigerator that we already have done several things to to try and stop this drawer from getting too cold.

The brand is an Electrolux/Frigidaire. I have diagnosed unit as having a bad condenser fan and fan motor. Most units i have worked on have the condenser fan and motor to the left or right of the condenser. This unit is called a Professional series. The condenser fan and motor are located behind the condenser if viewing from the rear of the unit. I am stumped as to how to remove the condenser fan and fan motor. HELP

I changed the infinite switch and it did the same thing.
If I begin on low it will heat and cut off but will not come back on even after 10 minutes. If I turn it off and then back on it repeats the same cycle. It will stay on high. If I set it on 3 or 4 it does the same.
Can this be the sensor in the burner?
How does it work?
It doesn’t matter if I use the single or dual settings.

Not spinning fast enough at full speed on spin cycle, seems to drain fine, clothes come out soaking wet

We had a power outage last night during a thunderstorm and this morning the interior lights work, but that is the only function working. The “cubed ice” icon is blinking. The compressor is not running, nor is the condenser fan. I have my digital multimeter out and am wondering what the ranges would be for the output of the transformer which seems to supply the control board. What is more likely- a fried transformer from a power surge or fried control board from a power surge?

Lihgts are constantly in pause , I tested the lid switch and it’s ok , I need to enter the diagnostic mode .

All the dryer does is flash pause. It won’t even let me cancel. Therefore I can’t retrieve errors or run the service mode. The door switch tests good.

Washer initially presented water valve error so I replaced the water valve. Now it will fill but will not begin the cycle and does not present any error code.

All the dryer does is flash pause. It won’t even let me cancel. Therefore I can’t retrieve errors or run the service mode. The door switch tests good.
Can a bad door switch or thermal cut off or another bad part forbid me to extract the codes or even enter diagnostics?

I replaced the door latch. It takes a while before it releases after stopping or finishing a load and will not unlock for a while, it just keeps clicking.

The cold water keeps running even when I do the spin test, it dosen’t happen with the hot water, I suspect it’s water inlet valve but could it be the board ?

Can you tell me how to diagnose F96 error on this oven? Thanks.

GE FRONT LOAD WASHER; WON’T TUMBLE OR SPIN
FILLS AND DRAINS OKAY

Eight months ago it did the same thing. Then it displayed ErFs shorted or disconnected freezer sensor . I chocked the ohms. There was some variation. I changed the sensor and it worked for 8 months.
Then it reoccured. They lost everything in the freezer but said the refrigerator section was ok. Then it worked fine for several days then both sections failed and lost All their food.
I just checked it for error codes and it showed NONE.
Is there no end to these kinds of situations?????
What do you all do in these situations. I know you must face them almost daily. You can’t just throw parts at it.
Are there any service bulletins for this. Any video’s or technical training that can help now and in the future???

What does a 39 C error code mean?