Brand: GE (General Electric)

hi…i have a ge top load washer …it will not start..dead…i thought maybe the gfi plug…but i plugged it into another source and it still will not start….i did reset the gfi and when i plugged it back in i heard a pop…..not good i know, but i do not know where to start to check it out…..is it fused?? or do you think something else is blown?

this is what i found elsewhere?? just an fyi…not sure what to think…

Cause 1 Thermal Fuse

If the washer overheats, the thermal fuse will blow. If the line fuse blows, the washer won’t start. To determine if the thermal fuse is at fault, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the fuse does not have continuity, replace it. In addition, you should investigate and resolve the problem that caused the fuse to blow. If you don’t resolve the underlying issue, the new fuse will blow too.

Cause 2 Main Control Board

The main control board might be defective. However, the main control board is rarely at fault for this symptom. Before replacing the main control board, first check all of the more commonly defective parts.

THIS IS SECOND TIME ASKING WHAT COULD BE PROBLEM
AND WHAT IS OHMS ON SAFTEY VALVE WOULD BE TWO PIN ON TOP AND TWO PIN ON BOTTOM
PLEASE LET ME KNOW THANKS SO MUCH

Whenever unit is set to self clean winth 90 minutes it shuts down with an F9 error message according to customer have replaced control and checked for proper operation of door latch assembly all other functions work properly what could be the issue?

the unit will work sometimes .
put if I out it into spin I get the LO error and the unit will not run

What would make one of the hot surface lights on the stove top stay on even the the burner isn’t hot?

Hello, I love your new website.
My customer has a GE French Door fridge with the freezer on the bottom. I think the board that controls the fans is bad. I am the forth technician to service this fridge. She has had nothing but problems with it since she bought it. A year after, GE replaced the compressor. After that 3 boards were replaced. And more! Now this?..

Just looking for any service pointers ,, videos ,, wiring diagrams and diagnostics for this icemaker ..

Freezing items in crisper drawer and condensation buildup behind the drawer

Electrolux. No matter what setting it’s set to the washer always uses scorching hot water. Coworker replaced valves and main board still only using hot water though. I have a kenmore today with the same issue and just wanted to know what it could be causing it? Hoses installed correctly, settings are properly set..

Something in my microwave is making a grinding noise. I think theres is an issue with the fan.

I NEED TO REMOVE THE BOOT HOW TO REMOVE FRONT CONTROL PANEL

CUSTOMER LOADS WASHER , WILL FILL WITH WATER , WILL SENSE LOAD AND START WASH CYCLE, WILL START ADJATAING FOR ABOUT 8 MINS DRAIN AND STOP ,DOOR WILL UNLOCK , AND WITH ERROR CODE, DISPLAY WILL SHOW WASH AND THE AMOUNT OF TIME LEFT IN CYCLE. THANKS

THE MOTOR WON’T DO ANYTHING.

THE LID SWITCH IS GOOD. I HAVE 120V ON C2 AT THE INVERTER. ALL THE PINS AT C4 ARE READING 48V. NO VOLTAGE AT C7.

I’VE SWAPPED OUT THE BOARD, MOTOR/INVERTER. THE LED, ON THE INVERTER IS FLASHING 6 TIMES. THE MOTOR AND TUB SPIN FREELY. BOTH MOTORS HAD THE SAME DIAGNOSTIC CODE WHICH IS ” LOCKED ROTOR”.

I’M AT A COMPLETE LOSS AS WHAT TO DO NOW.

THE SERVICE LITERATURE DOES NOT INDICATE WHAT VOLTAGES SHOULD BE PRESENT.

THANKS IN ADVANCE

The controls on my GE oven are not working properly.

The controls on my oven are not working right.

Will not produce ice, Will not dispense water, Ice build up in freezer.

the oven ignitor will not glow.
I tested the 2 wires that go from the knob to the ignitor and I am getting 0.9 volts.
when it’s on or off.

If you open the following link, that is the noise being made during agitation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WvDDGzhkHu0 . I have removed the Rotor motor and found that at some point, a small amount of water made it’s way to the Rotor Motor as I could see water streaks formed as the motor spun, at speed. Never saw any water on the floor beneath the Washing Machine. I had the Agitator removed at the same time, and found no substantial movement in the shaft at top or bottom. No wear to the splines in the agitator/Impeller or Impeller Insert. The teeth on the Mode Shifter showed some very minor wear. No visible damage to either the Stator or Rotor Motor. Is there a most likely failed part causing the noise or a way to test to find the failed or failing part. My research so far has suggested any of the above mentioned parts as well as the DSM Module. FYI: in searching parts, the Bearing Assy shows as not available. I had GE Parts do some research and the new part # is WH38x24734..Please advise.

This is a coin operated electric dryer. When it is started, the minutes display shows 45 and the light on the top panel is on for “cooling down” instead of “drying”. The heat cycles on and off and the time display counts down normally to 1 minute and remains at 1 minute, and the dryer continues to run and heat and doesn’t shut off. I’m suspecting the timer is the issue. Any assistance would be appreciated.
Thank you.