hi…i have a ge top load washer …it will not start..dead…i thought maybe the gfi plug…but i plugged it into another source and it still will not start….i did reset the gfi and when i plugged it back in i heard a pop…..not good i know, but i do not know where to start to check it out…..is it fused?? or do you think something else is blown?
this is what i found elsewhere?? just an fyi…not sure what to think…
Cause 1 Thermal Fuse
If the washer overheats, the thermal fuse will blow. If the line fuse blows, the washer won’t start. To determine if the thermal fuse is at fault, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the fuse does not have continuity, replace it. In addition, you should investigate and resolve the problem that caused the fuse to blow. If you don’t resolve the underlying issue, the new fuse will blow too.
Cause 2 Main Control Board
The main control board might be defective. However, the main control board is rarely at fault for this symptom. Before replacing the main control board, first check all of the more commonly defective parts.
nothing except a different outlet to see if the plug is shot or the machine is not working…the machine is not working
- Guest asked 8 years ago
- last edited 8 years ago
Ahhhh, ok. The surge explains why its so weird. It probably fried the motor/inverter too. Surges usually take out just the boards but its hard to say what all could have been damaged. Typically the main control may be the only one affected, but it looks like it damaged board boards. I don’t know if it is worth it for you to install the motor and hope for the best or cut your losses and hopefully return the main board and get your money back on it. Attached is a link to the part
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 8 years ago
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Ok. The next thing we need to check is the pressure switch and hose. I have attached a video to show you, but we wont need to go as far. Gain access to the pressure switch. remove the pressure hose from the switch. Now turn the unit back on and try to start a cycle. Let me know if it start filling with water now.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 8 years ago
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if i need to remove that cover it looks like i need a special thingy?? one of those T sockets??
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Find the white/red wire at the control board and and the motor. unplug the connector it is attached to at each end and test this wire for continuity.
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i unplugged the connector from the board and from the motor….i tested the white/red wire and it seemed to be ok…(i tested with the ohm side of the tester??correct?)
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yes that is correct. You should have and ohm reading. It is weird that you do not have a blinking light on the inverter board. But, even if the inverter was bad the washer should still fill with water and drain. You did get the washer to fill and drain briefly at one point. After the tests we have done, my conclusion is that you either have a shorted wire/ loose connection somewhere in the wire harness or the control board you installed is faulty. On top of that we could have an issue with the motor/inverter because the light is not on. This is a very strange one. Usually you do not have multiple parts fail at the same time. Did you have a power surge in the house around the same time this unit stopped working?
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not in the entire house but there was a surge at the outlet that the machine was using….thats why i figured the board may be fried..but this is crazy…is it possible that everything got fried!!??…and yes..right after i installed the new board it started filling but didnt stop when i opened the lid so i hit the button to stop it…..it also started to drain at one point but didnt spin….now it wont do any of those things?? any other ideas or should i scrap the thing!!
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I have attached a link to a couple videos on your lid switch. It also, shows how to gain access to the motor/ inverter. It should be the same on your washer. Check out the videos and see if this seems like the issue you are having and let me know. We can test your lid switch at the inverter board. The tech sheet we have been referring to may be slightly different than your exact model since it covers many different models, as we have found out with the connectors on your control board.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 8 years ago
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that video is done on the exact machine i have…..how do i check to see if the motor is good?? it does spin freely when i move the belt….but not sure if power is getting there?? also..where is the inverter board?? i can test the lid switch if i know where to do that..(i think) ….
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i bypassed the lid switch and still the same thing???…(not a good thing..i know!!)
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Yes, it sounds like you are testing at the board correctly. You have proper voltage at the board. With proper power to the board and the board not lighting up or responding it sounds like you have a faulty control board. You will need to replace the board. p#WH12X10475. I have attached a link to the part.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 8 years ago
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that video is done on the exact machine i have…..how do i check to see if the motor is good?? it does spin freely when i move the belt….but not sure if power is getting there?? also..where is the inverter board?? i can test the lid switch if i know where to do that..(i think) ….
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i did see the video post….is that the way to test the lid switch?? by stripping part of the wires?? what ohm setting do i use?? and….when i try to start a wash cycle…i hit the start button and hear 2 beeps then the fill light just flashes…..would this be a symptom of a bad lid switch??
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hey Brian…..is there a way for me to bypass the switch to see if it is indeed the switch?? can i snip and jump the wires somehow?? just asking..lol if i strip part of the wires and put an alligator clip on?? i can change the switch if needed but its been a while since its worked and i need to wash clothes..lol
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Yes. You would just cut he wires to the lid switch and wire nut them together
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i bypassed the lid switch and still the same thing???…(not a good thing..i know!!)
- 17 more comments
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Hi. I may be looking at a tech sheet that is slightly different than your model. I have attached the tech sheet below. Look at page 31. It shows the connector I am talking about. Let me know if your set up is different. Yes, we are looking for the incoming plug wires that attach at the board. We need 120v there. IF not, we need to back track to the plug and outlet to see where we are loosing our voltage at.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 8 years ago
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it is not the same set up…but the 2 prong connector that connects to the wall plug wire is the one that im speaking of……the connector on the board that has those 2 wires on it is the one i tested….when i plug the machine into an extension cord and then test those 2 wires while the connector is plugged into the board it seem to have 120v going to the board…..is that what i should be doing?
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http://www.rcappliancepartsimages.com/dbImages/00004195/01262496.jpg i think this is the board on my machine…seems to be the same……it is the long connector on the left in this picture where those 2 wires connect …not sure if this helps?
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Not a problem. Just making sure the outlets you plugged the unit into are getting proper power. From the tech sheet I am looking at you will need to put your meter on pin 2 and pin 2 of the J501 connector. They should be the White/ red wire and the red/black wire. You should have 120 v between these two pins.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 8 years ago
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thank you….gonna remove the board and give it a shot…..will respond back in the morning….what time zone am i dealing with here?? i am est..
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eastern as well.
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Hi Brian…well…is the j501 connector the one that connects the actual plug wire with the wire harness?? a white plastic connector and there are only 2 wires on that connection??wish i could send a pic….if that is the connector then when i put the meter probe on each wire there seems to be no action…..
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i think i found where those 2 wires connect to the board…..looking at that connector it was the 1st wire on the right..and the 6th wire in…those were the 2 with the corresponding colors….so not sure what pin 2 and pin 2 meant? no continuity there either….
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sorry. I meant pin 1 and pin 2 of that connector. so the first wire and second wire according to the tech sheet.
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HI. The pop you hear could have been the GFI tripping which then shuts off power at the outlet. Check to make sure you have proper voltage at the outlet. You should have 120 volts from hot to neutral and from hot to ground. If you have proper voltage at the outlet, the next thing to check would be if you have proper voltage going to the control board.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 8 years ago
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thank you…the pop i heard..i think..came from the machine? it sounded a bit like a sound if i tapped my finger on the side of the machine….the gfi is usually just a click like pop….and i did plug it into another outlet with no luck…i used an extension cord but it should have at least shown power??…how would i check the voltage to the board…i did take the top panel off but didnt know how to check the board….do i put the meter contacts somewhere in particular on the board?? do i remove the board to do it?? sorry but im a bit washer service challenged…lol
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