Brand: Viking

The right rear burner is not working on my viking range.

Dishwasher is having some problems

My oven does not seem to be getting warm enough.

My oven does not seem to be getting warm enough.

Not starting.

Unit stops at random times.

Issue with Viking Cooktop: Stains on burners

The display on my Viking range is not working.

Having an issue with a Stove

My Viking dishwasher is making grinding noises.

My Viking range will not heat up.

I can light the pilot But the bake burner not igniting when i turn oven knob up I assume it the thermocouple Can clean up the old one or replace it.

Won’t start and has no lights and not working. No respond when buttons pushed. Unit has power going in.

(Couldn’t find model. Googled simular looking one.) Griddle uses an electrode to light but when you turn on the thermostat/pot control it doesn’t do anything I didn’t even smell or hear gas. There’s what appears to be a spark module under it which the electrode is connected to.. Would it most likely be that spark module? Other things factors could be a bad thermostat or gas valve.

I have a customer who owns viking range and she is complaining that one of the burner continues to click after she lit it ? also when I was there two burners in the rear didn’t spark when I turned on valve ?
do you think that it has more then one issues ?

Can we get more advanced videos for example how to remove the bottom hinges off a Viking side-by-side refrigerator not specific to a model? Or how to replace hinges on a Viking or Thermidor or wolf range? Please more Advanced videos or links to some regarding more high end appliances this site only includes some minor repairs.

oven only seems to turn on by itself every couple months and the thermostat would be off while running the only way to get it to shut off is by turning off the gas and Unplugging it to stop the the clicking (electrode lighting oven). The thermostat is $160+ and the DSI spark module for the oven is $160+. When I was there it seems to be working fine but the customer says that it does it every couple months where they would come home and find it clicking and running really hot. What do you guys suggest I replace? I’m clueless here.

(Brand selector not finding Viking)
Was beeping heating alarm on the panel replaced fresh food section temperature sensor that was $70 and the alarm went away but freezer and fridge still both extremely cold. Eggs and everything else get frozen in the fresh food section and freezer ice cream turns into a rock. I ordered the low-voltage board because that’s what controls the temperature should I have ordered something else as well?

(Viking fridge brand. search has issues finding after error due to not selecting appliance type)
Replaced gasket and fresh food door doesn’t stay closed. NO THIS MODELS HINGE IS NOT UNDER RECALL. Tried raising the front of the fridge and nothing. Rubbed a bit of lube on gaskets, nothing. Tried udjusting the top hinge bracket in different directions and nothing. Put old gasket back on and seems to be staying closed at least a lot better than new gasket. I was thinking to heat gun the gasket until it compresses better like the old one? But why does the freezer close so well and these Viking side by sides always have issues? What are some other things I can try besides heat gun the new gasket a bit so it isn’t so thick ??

Moisture is building below the fridge I have seen this on several of the side-by-side Vikings the drain pan would be on the right side and there is a gutter that runs from the left side which is the freezer drain hole to the right side and it’s always really wet around the beginning of the gutter which is the bottom of the freezer side, it would be covered In really big droplets hanging down. The little axle fan located in the front right came on after resetting the fridge which I am assuming is to dry out the bottom of the unit. Do you guys have any ideas what could be causing this or what I can do? I put a cookie sheet there temporarily. Diagnostic mode didn’t tell me jack.
This unit does not have a drain pan heater but the drain pan is wet inside so I know water is getting in there and there is no water damage below the drain pan only wear those droplets are hanging from

I watched this video on your site: https://www.appliancevideo.com/premiumotr/viking-stove-bake-element-oven-not-heating/

When i pulled the white wire and red wire spade connectors off i put a test to them and had 125 volts;
I hooked them back up to Bake element it was hard to get accurate reading on volt meter. It was kind of reading 20 volts? Would this mean my Bake element is bad ?

I have had several of these Viking ranges where they have a gas Leak on the tube that leads from the safety valve on the gas manifold to the gas valve for the bake section of the range. I called biking and they gave me the wrong part number when I looked at the photo and I was wondering if somebody can provide me with the proper parts blow up so I can actually look at it myself. It’s a tube about 4 feet long.
IT IS NOT PART #PB002043

could you send me the manual of ice machine parts

Costumer says it flashes light and beeps even when door is closed every couple hours. Tested fresh food door switch seems fine. Cleaned condenser. Inspected the evaporator coils. Tested fresh food section thermistor seems fine. Condenser fan running. Only thing I can think to do is shotgun the job and replace the low voltage board which controls the tempeture, thermistor, and door switches.. any suggestions? Maybe freezer door switch? I never seen it fail before on a Viking..??

The initial complaint was that the refrigerator is freezing everything so when I showed up there thermistor and everything seem to be OK just a little bit enclosed in snow so I cleaned everything out make sure that leads are good and not shorting and try to reset the fridge but after me full and around with it it started flashing the temperature bars in sequence from left to right. Not sure what’s going on here seems like it’s in program mode but I didn’t put it into program mode all I did was clean the condenser plug everything back in and turn the fridge back on and leave. I figured the flashing would stop I’ve gotten it before when the door was open for too long.. Any suggestions on what I can do to reset the fridge to proper running order at least to over freezing like it was before I got there hah
THE DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE INSIDE ISNT VERY HELPFULL IT CATERS TO BOTH FREEZER AMD REFRIGERATOR VERSION OF THIS UNIT FOR THE MOST PART

Temperature probe ?

Initial problem was the condenser fan went out so when I got there replaced the condenser fan motor with a generic one That has worked perfect for me for on Sub-Zero before And cleaned the condenser very nicely meanwhile having it Unplugged for about 15 minutes. Customer called back said it’s not cooling still in the refrigerator section and VACUUM CONDENSER light on. Found system needs refrigerant. My guess is that there is a Freon leak in the evaporator although I did not see a ice formation on either trip And the customer said it stopped cooling overnight.
-So my question is does the condenser light come on for any issue? Isn’t there also a service light that should come up instead?
-What if the vacuum condenser light or service light Keeps coming back? I had a customer a year ago that wanted me to replace his compressor and exchanger with a generic one because it was readily available and the service light and error 40/50 kept returning even tho it was cooling perfectly.
Prefer technician input over paperwork.