Hello Fellows.
Yesterday as I was loading my refrigerator it turned itself “OFF”.
The lights inside just shut down and only 2 things happening:
1) slight clicking on top by the area around display and controls
2) blue lights bling on “DELI” and CHILLED” on bottom-right side.
No display messages, nothing.
What I did:
1. Unplugged fridge and checked voltage. It is 123 Volt. Plugged fridge back into the outlet.
2. Turned “OFF” breaker. The fridge has dedicated circuit. Installed “Clamp-on” current meter into the wire in the breaker panel. Zero my meter. Turned breaker “ON”. No measurable current.
3. Unplugged fridge and plugged heavy duty hear dryer into the same outlet where the fridge was plugged and tried “load test”. I was able to see different current readings for hear-dryer in “Fan” and “Fan and Heat” mode.
4. With my digital multimeter also checked frequency in the outlet. It is 59.9 Hz
Conclusion: Nothing wrong with electricity supply.
Next, I let refrigerator to stand 15 min without being plugged in. After replugging back – no changes.
5. Removed two panels on back to get access to PBAs (PCBs)
6. Removed panels for visual review of panels, connectors and part numbers discovery. The fuse on Main Panel is OK. The fuse on Sub Panel is OK.
PCB Sub Inverter # 06 DA92 0004 7AP6 23B6 82533
PCB MAIN # 06 DA41 0065 1RPR 80B8 90895
7. Removed AC Filter from its box.
8. While the boards were out (disconnected)I tested if electricity arrived through the cord (at the entry to filter) – yes I have 123-4 Volt reading.
9. Then I checked if electricity passing filter. Yes, I have 123-4 Volt reading between red and black wire.
10. Checked if electricity arriving into SubPanel. wires Red and Gray I have 123-4 Volt reading.
11. No plugs connected to SubPanel. No plugs connected to Main Panel. Checked plug CN70 Gray and Red wires. Yes, I have 123-4 Volt reading between red and Gray wire. Connected Plug CN70 to Main Panel. Tested if current coming to the panel. Yes, I have 123-4 Volt reading.
12. Noticed: While ONLY CN70 connected to Main Panel AND Sub Panel is disconnected, The driver BA6219B is overheating. My uneducated guess this driver is driving Icemaker (Yes? No?). I do not have it. I disconnected from the beginning, as we never use ice.
I probably need to replace Main Panel, buy my questions are:
a. Can I only replace Driver BA6219B?
b. what is the possible cause of failer, especially these drivers have built-in thermal shutdown circuit? I do not want to replace Main Panel just to toast it right after replacing it.
- Guest asked 6 years ago
Hello
It definately sounds like the main PCB. I have provided a technician diagnostic sheet. I would run the unit through diagnostics before replaceing the control. See links below for manuals and videoes. Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 6 years ago
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YOU: It definitely sounds like the main PCB. ME: It IS PCB. One of the components burning! YOU: I have provided a technician diagnostic sheet. ME: Thanks, but it can not be used. YOU: I would run the unit through diagnostics before replacing the control. ME: What part “IT IS NOT ON” you do not understand? Nothing is working. It is OFF. Totaly OFF. YOU: See links below for manuals and videoes. ME: Video links unrelated AND they are required additional payment! Summary: You just told me what I already told you; you suggested to do impossible; you send me links to unrelated videos to spend more money, for no reason. And most of all you did not answer one out of my three questions. Please refund payment. Thanks for trying.
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I answered your question. If its totally down and you have a burt spot on the board. you have top replace the board to move foward. You can then run it through diagnostics. You need to understand we do not have a technician on site there to diagnose it. That is why you pay $19. instead of $95 for a technician to come out.
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