1 vote

Hi. The unit is not self defrosting. If the heater tested good, you could have a bad defrost thermostat, evaporator sensor or control board. I have attached the service manual on this unit for you. Check your defrost thermostat for continuity. If that tests good, it is either the sensor or control board. The manual will give you test points to check the thermistor from the control board. You will need to match up the current temperature at the thermistor to the resistance on the chart that it should be at. I have had good luck lately replacing the evaporator sensors even if they have tested ok. The thermistor is much cheaper than the control board and more likely to be the issue. I have attached some videos for you as well.

1 vote

Hello
When you have a heavy ice ball on the coil, it is a strong indication of a sealed system issue. Is the rest of the evaporator frosted ? If it is frosted it should have a coil temperature of -15 to -20 degrees. If it does not you have a leak in the system or a weak suction valve in your compressor. I have provided diagnostic video links below.

1 vote

Hi. I only show the modle number. What was your question?

1 vote
In reply to: SENSING ISSUE

Hello
Do you have any Error codes ? Have you run the unit through diagnostics ? See technician sheet and service bulletin links below.

1 vote

Hello Raul; I believe what you are talking about is called a retaining ring which does look like a c clip and there are actually 2 different ones on your clutch assembly which is what I think you are referring to as a “brake cam driver” – there is a larger one which is the upper one and it has a part # of W10080230 and then there is a slightly smaller one just below that one which has a part # of 285353 . THE GOOD NEWS IS you can order your retaining ring(s) from appliancevideo.com and they will be delivered right to your door for your convenience . I hope this helps you out and as always good luck with your repair !

1 vote

Hello
There are no service bulletins on this model for the inlet tube freezing. When you have the inlet, tube freezing, and you do not have an inlet tube heater, you have low water pressure velocity through the tube causing the water to freeze. There are two valves on this unit a primary valve WPW10498990 and a Secondary dual water inlet valve for the icemaker and dispenser WP2188785 . Have you replaced both valves? Also, the water filter is in series and if it is partially plugged can cause low water pressure. Look at the amount of water in the ice maker after it goes through the harvest cycle. It should have approximately 1/2 inch of water across all fingers. I always start from the saddle valve in the basement and work forward. Matt Ace technician

1 vote

Hello
The most common causes of elements burning out is is inadequate air flow across the heater assembly. I would check the blower housing to see if it is impacted. then do A complete tear down to make sure there is no lint causing inadequate air flow. Also check the outdoor vent to make sure the it is clean and the air louvers are opening properly outside. 95% of the time this is the issue. Matt Ace technician

1 vote

Hello
Are you sure you are not have a defrost issue causing restricted air flow to the refrigerator ? I have provided the technician diagnostics sheet link below. Run diagnostics for electronic defrost control test mode. Matt Ace technician

1 vote

Replacing the heater assembly will also replace the NTC and the Aqua sensor, as they are integrated into the part.Here is the link below for the diagnostics and error codes.

1 vote

In the freezer section behind your evaporator is a condensate drain that is plugged. That will cause the water to drain in the freezer and in the refrigerator section. You could have a bad defrost heater or just a plugged drain.  Take off the cover and defrost it with hot water or hair dryer until it drains into the drip pan by the compressor. If it happens again then replace your defrost heater.

1 vote

Hi. You can look up parts at Cool Blue World(link attached) or through Sears for Fisher and Paykel. IF the noise is not from the plumbing in the house it most likely is in the inlet valve. I have attached the tech sheet, service manual, and videos for you. The cabinet should not need to come off for anything. All repairs should be able to be made from the top of the unit under the console or from under the machine.

1 vote

Bob, I have provided a link below to show you how the ice maker breakdown comes out of the unit. I hope this helps. Matt Ace technician

1 vote
In reply to: unit not cooling

Hi. I have seen sealed system issues many times on these unit. They are built By LG. It sounds like your compressor is running. They usually draw around 1.0 amps. Check your frost pattern to be sure if it is a sealed system issue. If you have an uneven frost pattern or no frost pattern you either have a faulty compressor or a leak in the system. These units usually come with a 5 or 10 year sealed system warranty so I have not gotten any further into diagnosing or repairing them. You would need to tap the system and check your pressures to determine if it is a leak or faulty compressor. With it being a Kenmore it makes it difficult to look up information. I have found a service manual on a similar unit I have attached for you.

1 vote

Hello, the rotation is controlled by the main control board and communicated through the hall sensor. If you did not replace the hall sensor I would replace that as the next step. If you did already replace it, or if when you do replace it and the issue remains then the control board will most likely also need replaced. As far as removing a broken bolt you will need to try and remove it with the proper sized “easy out” type of bolt extractor. Just google “easy out bolt extractor ” and you will see multiple results.

1 vote

Hello
Are you getting good freezer temperatures ? Are you getting -5 to +10 degrees in the freezer section ? If you are not getting these temperatures you nee to look at the evaporator to see if you have a defrost issue or a sealed system leak. Matt Ace technician

0 votes

One thing I came across was a freezer basket sensor switch. Located in the freezer. p#DA34-00047B. It is 8-4 on this diagram. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/samsung-refrigerator-parts/model-RF263BEAEBCAA0001/1482/0161000/50040548/00001.html

Looks like this switch is actuated by the freezer basket or the track when the door closes. I would make sure this switch is working and that the track or basket is engaging this switch. Looks like this switch may control operation for the ice maker.

0 votes

Hi. I believe I found the correct tech sheet on this unit. I have attached it for you.

0 votes

HI. When I look up your model number I get the same part number that you provided for the Fresh Food evaporator sensor. p# DA32-00027B. I have attached a link to a picture of the part. IS this the same part you have gotten? I’m not finding any information on any alternate parts or a design change for this sensor. You can order the whole evaporator assembly (p# DA96-00461A) which comes with the sensor, fuse, heater, and evaporator tray. Looks the the sensor connection is a different color in this assembly, but I can not tell if the connector is different. DO you get water under the crisper drawers in the FF section? You could just have a drain tube that is getting clogged and it may not be related to the defrost system. The water is a sign that the defrost system is working, but the drain is clogged, and therefore you get the water in your refrigerator. Have you fully unclogged the drain tube? Flush hot water down the drain until it drains freely. A turkey baster works well for this. These units are notorious for the drains freezing up. A lot of times I do not find any issues with the defrost system or any part failures. It’s just a design flaw that allows the drains to freeze up. Let me know if you need any further help or videos on this issue.

0 votes

Hello, on this model the crushed/cube linkage is part of the ice bucket and comes complete as an assembly. The part # is 00677502. I found it available at searsparts.com, however should be available through your regional Bosch parts distributor

0 votes

Hello
Can you double check the model number. This 628.4528510 is for a stove. Matt Ace technician

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