All Answers

Hello
If you replaced everything in this post, I would look at the wiring harness connections at the control board and down by the hinge assembly to make sure there are no pinched wires. If you do not see any pinched wires and you have good connections, go to the technicians diagnostic link below. On page #1 on the lower left you will see (SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS CYCLE NOTES NOTE 1. To invoke the Diagnostics Cycle, perform the following key presses or actions in less than 6 sec while in standby) Try to run the unit through the diagnostic mode. If it will not run through diagnostics, I would replace the wiring harness. You either have a bad harness or a defective new control board.

Its in section 5-7 in the service manual.

Hello
If you are getting ice in the ice maker and no water through the dispenser, you could have a few possibilities.
1) You have a dual water inlet valve part # WPW10341329 . One side of the valve sends water to the ice maker and the other side of the valve sends water to the water reservoir, that then comes through your dispenser. You could have a defective inlet valve.
2) Your dispenser switch may be defective not working correctly. When pressed it sends 115 volts to the water valve to let water pass through the valve.
See technician manual along with the service manual links below for full diagnostics. Section 3-5 in service manual for dispenser.

Section 2 on pages 2-20 and 2-21 has all information pertaining to testing the reed switches. The alarm is based on the control communication with the reed switch. If all switches are tested correctly (and tests good), then there is an issue with the control or harness. The harness would need the wiring traced at both ends of each wire from the control to the individual switch for continuity. If the harness is tested correctly (and tests good), then you most likely have a control issue. This may be tedious, but there is no short cut.

Hello
See technical sheet link attached. Go to #2 to enter unit into the diagnostic mode. This will then give you the stored error codes. The error codes will in this sheet. On page #3 you can run tests on individual components. The Service manual attached will give you step by step instructions on how to replace the defective component. I have also included a parts breakdown link. Hope this helps.

Hello, F160, and 170 are the water inlet valves. They have wiring harness that supplies 115 volts to them. Once they are energized with 115 volts they open up a diaphragm to let water pass through them.

Hello
See the link to the service manual and parts diagram. It sounds like you dispenser hoses have a build up in them from possibly your hard water, that will cause lime and calcium deposits in the hoses. Go to page #56 in the manual link. From your dispenser you have three hoses F215, E322 and E321 in the diagram. I would either remove the hoses and try to clean them out or order new hoses. You can call Sears Parts Direct at 1800-366-7278 and give them your model number, they will look up the parts and ship them to you. Or you can call a professional appliance repair technician to do the job. Hope this helps . Thanks

Hi. I’ll try and help you figure this issue out. With everything you have done and like you said, it seems the only thing left would be the motor or wiring. I agree. I have attached a bulletin for loose terminals at the motor. Take a look and double check these terminals. I have also attached the tech sheet. It looks like from black at the heater to either yellow or gray is where you should see 240v. Black comes out of the centrifugal switch of the motor. Looks like pins 1 and 2 are for the switch. You can pull in the switch manually while testing for continuity. I hope this helps and good luck.

Hello
See all information you requested. I have no way to trace out the circuits with our downloaded manual program. Hope this helps.

Hello
See the service technician sheet along with the service diagnostics guide, wiring diagram links below.

See service manual link below for complete diagnostics.

See links below for requested information.

Her is the requested information . See links below

Hello
If you have 120 volts to the outlet with a proper ground and polarity. Then you need to verify you have 120volts at the control board. If you do, you need to start by replaceing the control board.

Hello
We currently do not have that specific video for the model wa484dshasu/a1. I will add it into the request form. Thanks

Hello
See the service manual link. Do you have the GE smart HQ tool to plug in to see the error codes? If not go to page #54 in the service manual and run the unit through the ( Service Test Mode) . This will give you the fault cades to diagnose the issue.

Hello
Can you please check the model number C2D950P4M2E2. It does not come up in our system. Thanks

Hi.
I have attached the service manual for this unit. I did not see any service bulletins for this. If it’s still taking a long time to dry my first guess would have to be air flow. You must have a clogged vent or blower wheel and or housing. This would be the most likely explanation. Especially if they share the same vent since both are taking longer than usual to dry. Does the heat seem to short cycle? Only staying on for a few seconds and shutting off? This would be another indication of an air flow issue. Exhaust temps coming out of the dryer are going to be 120- 150 degrees. If air flow is not the issue then you could have gas coils that are failing. Weak coils will give you proper heat at the beginning of a cycle for a period and then just loose heat all together. The igniter will come on and go off with no flame. I hope this was helpful.

Hello
See the complete troubleshooting & repair manual link attached. The troubleshooting and diagnostics are on on page #10.

Hello
See complete service manual link attached. On page 4-31 are instructions for the removal of the water filter housing.