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Hello, F160, and 170 are the water inlet valves. They have wiring harness that supplies 115 volts to them. Once they are energized with 115 volts they open up a diaphragm to let water pass through them.

Hello
See the link to the service manual and parts diagram. It sounds like you dispenser hoses have a build up in them from possibly your hard water, that will cause lime and calcium deposits in the hoses. Go to page #56 in the manual link. From your dispenser you have three hoses F215, E322 and E321 in the diagram. I would either remove the hoses and try to clean them out or order new hoses. You can call Sears Parts Direct at 1800-366-7278 and give them your model number, they will look up the parts and ship them to you. Or you can call a professional appliance repair technician to do the job. Hope this helps . Thanks

Hi. I’ll try and help you figure this issue out. With everything you have done and like you said, it seems the only thing left would be the motor or wiring. I agree. I have attached a bulletin for loose terminals at the motor. Take a look and double check these terminals. I have also attached the tech sheet. It looks like from black at the heater to either yellow or gray is where you should see 240v. Black comes out of the centrifugal switch of the motor. Looks like pins 1 and 2 are for the switch. You can pull in the switch manually while testing for continuity. I hope this helps and good luck.

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See all information you requested. I have no way to trace out the circuits with our downloaded manual program. Hope this helps.

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See the service technician sheet along with the service diagnostics guide, wiring diagram links below.

See service manual link below for complete diagnostics.

See links below for requested information.

Her is the requested information . See links below

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If you have 120 volts to the outlet with a proper ground and polarity. Then you need to verify you have 120volts at the control board. If you do, you need to start by replaceing the control board.

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We currently do not have that specific video for the model wa484dshasu/a1. I will add it into the request form. Thanks

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See the service manual link. Do you have the GE smart HQ tool to plug in to see the error codes? If not go to page #54 in the service manual and run the unit through the ( Service Test Mode) . This will give you the fault cades to diagnose the issue.

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Can you please check the model number C2D950P4M2E2. It does not come up in our system. Thanks

Hi.
I have attached the service manual for this unit. I did not see any service bulletins for this. If it’s still taking a long time to dry my first guess would have to be air flow. You must have a clogged vent or blower wheel and or housing. This would be the most likely explanation. Especially if they share the same vent since both are taking longer than usual to dry. Does the heat seem to short cycle? Only staying on for a few seconds and shutting off? This would be another indication of an air flow issue. Exhaust temps coming out of the dryer are going to be 120- 150 degrees. If air flow is not the issue then you could have gas coils that are failing. Weak coils will give you proper heat at the beginning of a cycle for a period and then just loose heat all together. The igniter will come on and go off with no flame. I hope this was helpful.

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See the complete troubleshooting & repair manual link attached. The troubleshooting and diagnostics are on on page #10.

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See complete service manual link attached. On page 4-31 are instructions for the removal of the water filter housing.

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See complete service manual link attached and thermistor settings are on page #33.

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The ice maker does have a test mode on page #35 in the service manual link below. You have to be logged in to see the service manual. I would run the ice maker through the test mode. If you replaced the water valve, there is a 90% chance the ice maker is causing your issue. There is a water level adjustment under the cover of the ice maker. See manual for information. Thanks

Hello, customers reporting low or no cool conditions may have one or more potential root causes leading to the condition. You have a dual evaporator system. One in the freezer and one in the refrigerator section. Be sure to troubleshoot the cause of the low or no cool condition, including:
● Evaporator fan motor operation. There have been some cases where the evaporator fan motor is stalling and causing a PF in display and creating cooling issues. If the freezer temperature is fine and the sub-par cooling issue is only an issue in the refrigerator section, you will want to pull the refrigerator section evaporator cover to see if the evaporator fan motor is running. you will need to tape the 2 door switches closed for you to check properly. If the evaporator motor does not run or seems like it is running at a low speed this may be your issue. If there is no frost on the evaporator, or if it is and uneven frost pattern, then you most likely have some type of sealed system issue which is a technically difficult repair which would normally require a skilled sealed system technician and special equipment to correct. In most cases, (if this is the answer), it would not be a cost-effective repair unless under some type of manufacturer’s warranty. Please check the operation of the refrigerator section evaporator motor and frost pattern of the refrigerator section evaporator.

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All of the diagnostic tests start in the service manual from section 2-11 through section 3-16. All of the information is in the service manual. Your symptoms have many possibilities from a sealed system failure to a main control board issue. It may be in your best interest to have a technician come out and diagnose it for you.

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See the technician sheet and diagnostic manual. I would start by trying to put the unit into the diagnostic mode. It sounds like you have a lot going on based on the symptoms you are explaining. The service manual will explain all of the error codes. I have also provided the parts breakdown.