Brand: GE (General Electric)

WHERE TO START? freezer and lower drawers are below 32 while top of frige is 48

dispenser works fine, flutter every time ice maker calls for water. I have replace valve, same thing. I have checked water pressure its 45LBS. line is not crimped tube is clear.
Whats next?

the unit will work sometimes .
put if I out it into spin I get the LO error and the unit will not run

I have a ge porclein line refrigerator ref water line freezing i think it is freezing at the ice chute flapper. no frost built up in the ice chute. freezes intermittently will work for weeks the freeze for a couple days frz temp -2. customer has freezer really packed
I thopught there was a ice chute flapper with heater but i may be wrong any help appreciated

The knob on my oven is broken off.

Microwave blow 1 of 20 amp fuses. Replace it and test circuits before plugging in. Disconnected the mag tube and tested diode gate. Turn power on display came on set the clock. Blower fans works on all speeds. When you set the cook time it the start swich blows the same 20 amp fuse. Looks like a bad short circuit. What do you think the problem can be. I tried everything?

The board on this unit was flicking off and on and constantly beeping. Will do this while the unit is idle. I changed the control, everything seemed ok, get a call and now the board says needs service and is beeping. Any ideas?

I’VE RECENTLY HAD A RUN OF THESE TYPE UNITS WITH THE SAME ISSUES. THE LED, ON THE INVERTER BOARD, IS INDICATING NORMAL STANDBY. THE TIMER MOVES THROUGH THE CYCLES BUT THE ONLY THING THAT COMES ON IS THE DRAIN PUMP. NOW AFTER LOOKING AT THE DIAGRAMS I’M NOT SURE WHAT VOLTAGE I SHOULD HAVE WHERE AND WHEN. ALL THE UNITS I’VE HAD SIMILAR ISSUES WITH ARE BELT DRIVEN. IN SOME INSTANCES I’VE HAD THE SAME BOARD OR TIMER BUT THE ISSUE DOESN’T GO AWAY. ANY THOUGHTS?

My customer had an electrician look at her dryer. I’m guessing that he did a continuity test. And removed the “part” that sits on the side of the exhaust line. And he never came back to fix it. Well, that’s the story that I was told.
There are two wires and a little hole in the can that is about half way in back of the exhaust line. I checked out several websites, and I didn’t find a hole or a part that goes in the middle of the exhaust line. One person said that it is the drum outlet bias thermostat. But it looks like it’s located at the front of the dryer.
If you can shed any light on the subject I would greatly appreciate it. If I order that $64.00 part and it’s not the right part. Besides being stupid, I’d look stupid.
Thanks?

We had a little problem with the freezer or the door was open for a while that frees up the evaporator fan be defrosted it and everything’s working fine however we realize now that when we push the cube on the ice dispenser crushed ice comes out .
And when we put crushed ice crushed ice comes out as well

When I select a cycle and press start nothing happens. The motor led flashes 10 times.

sounds like a freight train when spinning

i need to see how to put this model belt on its a dryer

Not cooling, evaporator fan not moving. There is power to it. Its like it’s in magnetic field. Try spinning it won’t start up.

I’VE RECENTLY HAD A RUN OF THESE TYPE UNITS WITH THE SAME ISSUES. THE LED, ON THE INVERTER BOARD, IS INDICATING NORMAL STANDBY. THE TIMER MOVES THROUGH THE CYCLES BUT THE ONLY THING THAT COMES ON IS THE DRAIN PUMP. NOW AFTER LOOKING AT THE DIAGRAMS I’M NOT SURE WHAT VOLTAGE I SHOULD HAVE WHERE AND WHEN. ALL THE UNITS I’VE HAD SIMILAR ISSUES WITH ARE BELT DRIVEN. IN SOME INSTANCES I’VE HAD THE SAME BOARD OR TIMER BUT THE ISSUE DOESN’T GO AWAY. ANY THOUGHTS? I SENT IN A FOLLOW UP TO THE FIRST RESPONSE. I’VE CHECKED THE LID SWITCHES ON THESE UNITS AND REPLACED THEM, WHEN NECESSARY. SORRY FOR THE OMISSION. THE UNITS I GET ARE WHOLESALE FROM BIG BOX STORES. MAINLY RETURNS, WARRANTY ISSUES OR SWAP OUTS. OFTEN SOME OTHER TECH HAS WORKED ON THEM PREVIOUSLY AND ACCORDINGLY THEY DON’T PUT THE PAPERWORK BACK IN THE UNIT. NOW SOMETIMES I HAVE PAPERWORK FOR THEM OR SIMILAR TO GO BY OR I ASK YOU GUYS. THE SCHEMATICS I HAVE FOR SOME OF THESE UNITS DON’T SHOW WHAT VOLTAGES I SHOULD HAVE AT EACH PIN, AT THE MOTOR, RELATIVE TO WHAT CYCLE IT’S IN. SO I NEED TO FIGURE OUT WHAT VOLTAGES SHOULD BE PRESENT RELATIVE TO THE CYCLE AT THE VARIOUS MOTOR TERMINALS.

Need help diagnosing unit. Also is there a video on how to take off the top panel off to see the inside. Please help

We have had for of these washers that have gone bad where the bearing in spin sounds like a jet airplane taking off. each time, we have found the tub support stuck to the transmission shaft, and no matter what, we can not get it off. has anyone had any success removing the spin basket?
If you have let us know how please.

Where do you get another fuse? White with red stripe with electrical tape around it. Does GE sell the fuse for this unit. Can I pick up one at radio shack? Let me know?

So I’ve replaced the tub bearing and tranny due to a leak, reassembled and tests good, washer 7 loads and it through a main computer replace error. Replaced the main control and door lock and it washed 7 loads and it wont wash again. The on, wash and lid lock light are on and it wont do anything. Any ideas?

We have this cooktop and it is giving a f122.Anyone know what this could be?

THE REF FAN HAS NO POWER AND DAMPER DOOR IS NOT OPENING.

I’M THINKING BOARD ISSUE BUT NEED TO KNOW WHERE THE TEST POINTS ARE LOCATED

TX

I have a GE SPACEMAKER stackable washer/dryer. Customer complained that the washer knob broke off and that the washer is not working. When I arrived I noticed the knob from the washer side was off the potentiometer aperture handle (timer knob) resting on the washer. I tested the dryer and the dryer appeared to be working fine. I tried to start the washer to test it by turning the timer knob (which had fell off of the control panel frame bracket) and pressing start button. Not only did the washer not show any sign of life by not starting, but I tried turning the knob on the timer without the knob attached and I could not hear any “click” coming from inside the timer indicating that it was advancing to the next stage of the washing cycle.
I removed the control panel cover and noticed the timer slid out of place in its socket when it was supposed to be securely fastened to the front panel. The knob was turning but the timer was not clicking as it advanced. I tried to unplug the connector OF THE TIMER from the wires but coud not notice any discrepencies visually. Should the wires have been checked ?? continuity ? voltage ? Could I have a bad timer ? If the dryer works fine and the power is getting to the dryer and stopping when it gets to the washer could the timer be preventing this ?
Timer part # 131758600 (WRITTEN ON TIMER ITSELF)
GE Spacemaker Washer Dryer combo WSM2700DAWWW

When the machine goes into a high-speed spin cycle there’s a knocking sound of open the top and the back I don’t see it nothing against anything however I did see some black residue on the bottom rear near the belt I’ve also noticed when I try to turn the tub by hand that one of the top spins it looks like it is bent a bit.

Water keeps splashing onto the lock assy and shorting it out. Is there a solution to prevent that

the oven will not work .
the screen is blank
the burners do not light with the electric
only by match