0 votes
14k views

My question has nothing to do with the specific model number of above. A coworker and I changed out a bad compressor. It ran for 2 days, then stopped. We were discussing our problem with other techs. One of the other tech asked us how we filled the new compressor with freon. We told him that we filled it with liquid on the low side line like we always do.
He said that we improperly filled the compressor and thus, broke it. He told us that the only way to properly fill a compressor is liquid on the high side and vapor on the low side. Now, we have made over 25 compressor change outs, and never had a problem.

What is the “only” or is there an “only way to fill a compressor?

0 votes
14k views

During self test mode I got these three error codes relating to fill and drain cycles. E22, E23, E31
I replaced the water valve and flushed out all hoses and filter from drain section. Still had same problem.
Wash cycle starts with no issues. Water enters and fills tub, soap enters and wash cycle progresses.
The whole wash is supposed to last 59 minutes. The customer stated that his cycle stopped twice. once at 44 minutes and a 2nd time at 17 minutes during spin cycle. When I tested it, it stopped with me once only at 21 minutes going into spin cycle.
I was listening to all sounds from the washer during the entire 59 minutes. At 21 minute mark, the tub stopped turning, the drain pump sounded as if it was working but the start button on top panel was lit up like a xmas tree. I guess it was waiting for me to press the start button in order to advance the cycle. When I pressed the start button a second time, the tub continued to spin and the cycle advanced. Does this sound like a control board issue, a timer issue or drain pump or other ?
For this model, I think the timer is part of the control board.

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
0 votes
13k views

This is the first time we are seeing this refrigerator. It has a feature known as “AutoFill”. You place a cup or container on the water/ice dispenser platform and the fridge automatically fills the container to the appropriate level. This particular fridge keeps displaying “No container” when you place a cup and hit autofill. I tried researching this and found that it is sometimes the result of a non-uniform container. Our technicians tried several container types that were uniform and still received the same error message. All other functions of the refrigerator are working fine.

0 votes
11k views

GE refrig model: PFSF5RKZAWW that is Dead, no display, no interior lights, no fans, no compressor.
He verified 120 v through emi filter to the main board and inverter but unit will not fire up. Pulled individual harnesses to see if something may have been shorting low voltage but no change. He did change main board and user interface with same results.

  • Guest asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
10k views

Hello I am having issues figuring out why this damper will not stay open. Here is everything I know.

Freezer temp reads at 2 degrees.
Refrigerator temp reads at 64 degrees.
The evap fan motor is running constantly.
After power cycling the machine the damper will open for (about) 60 secs and then close.

  • Guest asked 6 years ago
  • last active 6 years ago
0 votes
10k views

Double oven will not work and keep getting F97. What is the likely problem? Lower cooling fan will not run. Found service bulletin that says to check connector. It’s a double oven so it will be very involved to take it down and really check it but as far as I can tell by peeking on it it looks ok. It says to replace cooling fan and sensor board if it’s ok. Is the cooling fan and sensor board more than likely bad based on you guy’s experience?
Thank you.

0 votes
9k views

I have a GE dishwasher and the Vent Cover keeps “Popping Off” and the is Vent Leaking . Is there a fix for this issue ?

0 votes
9k views

I have a GE SPACEMAKER stackable washer/dryer. Customer complained that the washer knob broke off and that the washer is not working. When I arrived I noticed the knob from the washer side was off the potentiometer aperture handle (timer knob) resting on the washer. I tested the dryer and the dryer appeared to be working fine. I tried to start the washer to test it by turning the timer knob (which had fell off of the control panel frame bracket) and pressing start button. Not only did the washer not show any sign of life by not starting, but I tried turning the knob on the timer without the knob attached and I could not hear any “click” coming from inside the timer indicating that it was advancing to the next stage of the washing cycle.
I removed the control panel cover and noticed the timer slid out of place in its socket when it was supposed to be securely fastened to the front panel. The knob was turning but the timer was not clicking as it advanced. I tried to unplug the connector OF THE TIMER from the wires but coud not notice any discrepencies visually. Should the wires have been checked ?? continuity ? voltage ? Could I have a bad timer ? If the dryer works fine and the power is getting to the dryer and stopping when it gets to the washer could the timer be preventing this ?
Timer part # 131758600 (WRITTEN ON TIMER ITSELF)
GE Spacemaker Washer Dryer combo WSM2700DAWWW

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
0 votes
8k views

There’s a plate looking piece in the top of my microwave that has a hole burned through it. Is it something I can replace? Seems relatively easy and it’s been bothering me. Not sure what it is to even call and order it.

  • Valerie G asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
7k views

Will not produce ice, Will not dispense water, Ice build up in freezer.

0 votes
7k views

I am replace a control board on a GE wall oven model JGRP16GEP1BG. Problem is the instructions to wire the cooling fans are completely useless, the wiring diagram came with 3 sheets. The first sheet has some useful info on installing jumpers and the bake and broil relays, but the next two pages were from a front load washer on installing a soap dispenser, these were all stapled together! There is a third relay which I will have to do a live test to see what that relay is doing if anything.

  • Gary Z asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
7k views

Hi,
I am working on a g.e front load. Maybe about 3 years old.
I believe the drain pump is bad, but the problem is I never worked on this particular model of ge.
Normal I would unscrew the 3 screws in the back of the lid and then pop of the top cover….
But this model does not have any screws for you to remove.
There must he a special way for me to take of the top panel ??so I can disassemble the machine for repairs.
Any information helps 🙂

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
0 votes
6k views

GE Cooktop with error code F152 F

0 votes
6k views

Wisemotion is a linear compressor designed and manufactured by Embraco. How do I service this ?

0 votes
6k views

The microwave / convection oven was purchased new in 2011. Everything works properly as far as heating and turning are concerned. However – when it is OFF and the door is closed it hums. The display works, the thermal cut-off is good, the magnetron gives a good reading – the transformer gives me 120v across and the capacitor tests ok. The door switch shuts off when opened. This happened once before – I replaced the magnetron but it did not change anything. I put the old magnetron back in and for some reason a few days later it started working and has worked for about a year – until a few days ago when it started the same symptom. I still have the replacement magnetron which I have swapped out, but the result is the same. I have been unable to find anything on the web with the same symptom – there is no grind and the turntable works great. As long as we leave the door open when it is off there is no problem, and when we put food in and turn it on it works properly. We are just afraid if we leave the door closed something will catch fire.

  • Larry Gutman asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
6k views

Leaking water, Solid chuck of ice in bin.

0 votes
6k views

I have a GE SPACEMAKER stackable washer/dryer. Customer complained that the washer knob broke off and that the washer is not working. When I arrived I noticed the knob from the washer side was off the potentiometer aperture handle (timer knob) resting on the washer. I tested the dryer and the dryer appeared to be working fine. I tried to start the washer to test it by turning the timer knob (which had fell off of the control panel frame bracket) and pressing start button. Not only did the washer not show any sign of life by not starting, but I tried turning the knob on the timer without the knob attached and I could not hear any “click” coming from inside the timer indicating that it was advancing to the next stage of the washing cycle.
I removed the control panel cover and noticed the timer slid out of place in its socket when it was supposed to be securely fastened to the front panel. The knob was turning but the timer was not clicking as it advanced. I tried to unplug the connector OF THE TIMER from the wires but coud not notice any discrepencies visually. Should the wires have been checked ?? continuity ? voltage ? Could I have a bad timer ? If the dryer works fine and the power is getting to the dryer and stopping when it gets to the washer could the timer be preventing this ?
Timer part # 131758600 (WRITTEN ON TIMER ITSELF)
GE Spacemaker Washer Dryer combo WSM2700DAWWW

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
0 votes
6k views

We have a customer that has this dryer and the red lock light is on and the clean lint filter display is on, unit will not work. Unit has been cleaned out lint vacuumed as well as vent being cleaned. Any ideas.

0 votes
6k views

fill tube gets frozen even when the water is turn off.

  • lopez1974 asked 7 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
0 votes
6k views

Not drying properly.

0 votes
6k views

need guidance finding a video or repair diagram on site

  • Guest asked 9 years ago
  • last active 9 years ago
0 votes
6k views
     Need Help on a GE  Dryer, This unit will only run for Five minutes an then shut off,

You can Press the start Button and it will Start back up, but you can set the Control to
Air only and it will then run Normal. Could this be in the Control or the Thermister
problem ? You can set the control To No heat and the Dryer will then
Run Normal. I am thinking it may be a bad thermistor or Main Control, Need your help.

0 votes
6k views

Can we get more advanced videos for example how to remove the bottom hinges off a Viking side-by-side refrigerator not specific to a model? Or how to replace hinges on a Viking or Thermidor or wolf range? Please more Advanced videos or links to some regarding more high end appliances this site only includes some minor repairs.

0 votes
6k views

Model – PSC23NSTDSS Serial – VL445258
Says refrigerator side getting warm 54 degrees. Freezer side running zero.
Refrigerator temperature normal. Fresh food 36 and freezer 0. . Stated Monday afternoon. Left door open for 3 minutes to see if unit goes into liner protection and freezer fan runs on high. Works fine. Confirm damper/fan assembly in refrigerator working. . Air return clear. Run diagnostics test. Only thing that didn’t pass was temperature control panel to dispenser board communication. That failed. Did try my test control panel I carry in place of customers panel. Same results. Failed. Don’t really understand why temperature control panel talks to dispenser board when there is nothing on temperature control panel that controls anything on dispenser board. Refrigerator door switch is on side wall. Confirmed door switch is being activated by door. When door is one inch from closing, switch turns off interior lights. Currently have door switch taped closed. Did go ahead and do the system reset. . Thermistors passed testing, but then again you never know. Also is the picture of thermistor old style? Should I maybe upgrade them?

0 votes
5k views

Will not drain water.

0 votes
5k views

This is a nice looking GE side by side fridge. Mold is all over the styrofoam and foam stripping in the FF evaporator area. So these mold spores are blowing all around the inside of the refrigerator and you can see that they are growing wherever there is moisture in the fridge. Is this a design flaw in the unit? Has anyone else dealt with this and been successful at getting rid of it? Even if I went through all the work of replacing the Styrofoam, freon lines insulation, and foam stripping I think it will return. The temps in the fresh food section were 48 degrees. I replaced the temperature sensors in the FF section. I could not find a part number for the sensor on the evaporator but I replaced it with a WR55X10025. I’m waiting to hear back from the customer to see if the fridge cools down to normal. Evaporator fan in FF working fine. Thank you for any advise.

0 votes
5k views

I have paperwork that indicates the resistance value should be 97 ohms, at the molex connector unplugged from the inverter. The led was blinking 4 times for a mode shifter error. I installed another mode shifter off of a machine that worked but had bad bearings. It had a reading of 63 ohms. The unit still won’t agitate, and I still have the error code. I swapped the inverter out with a known good board with no change. Do you any ideas why the mode shifter would work on one and not the other? What is the margin of error, for the resistance value, of the mode shifter coil?

  • Guest asked 7 years ago
  • last active 7 years ago
0 votes
5k views

Display shows error codes, Missing digits, Display will not light up, No ice through dispenser, Buttons will not respond.

0 votes
5k views

WHERE TO START? freezer and lower drawers are below 32 while top of frige is 48

  • Guest asked 8 years ago
  • last active 8 years ago
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