Brand: Kenmore

f6-e4
f6-e3
f9-e1
f5-e1

any help on these codes?

I have similar Kenmore. Ref part started freezing food, then a few days later I saw water on ref shelves. Long story short, removed ice maker, removed back panel of freezer (may have to defrost ice a bit to free it), and then saw ice buildup in drain tray and over drain tube. Removed back of refrig to see drip pan. Then in the freezer part, used hair drier and poured hot water on the ice to melt it. Soaked water run off with towel. Continued until water flowed down drain tube. Checked in the drain pan to see the water.

THEN from what I saw on another video, added an 18 gauge cooper wire apox 12″ long to the lower heating element. There are two elements, one on top of the cooling fans and one on the bottom. These heat up during the defrost cycle to melt ice. Water drips into the drain tray and down the drain tube. Careful when working around the fans, they bend easily and cut fingers even easier.

Looped one end of wire on the left side of the lower defrost element Then looped the other end on the right side of the lower element while shaping the cooper wire down to but not touching the drain tray (C shape). This should put heat right over the drain tray and tube to help melt any ice buildup.

ALSO from what I read about one of the causes of this ice build up in the freezer, warm moist air rises in the drip tube, meats the cold freezer air, and the moisture freezes up in the drain tube causing the ice dam. So I purchased two small elbow tubes and a worm clamp. Using pipe tape, connected the two elbows into a U shape and added them to the bottom of the drip tube. Use pipe tape and clamp to secure to the bottom of the tube. When water drips from the freezer, some of it stays in the U and prevents warm moist air from rising to the heater. Similar to the U shape in plumbing to keep sewer gases out of the house. QED so far.
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After speaking with the Kenmore service and parts department, they concluded that my gas valve to bake was either clogged or broken since the broiler element works and we didn’t smell gas when we tried to use the bake control. I didn’t find a video on how to replace or clean the gas valve. We got down to the valve but don’t know where to go from there. Do we access it from the back to replace it or do it from the oven? Do you have a video

My refrigerator has twice leaked water in perhaps 1-2 months’ time, and each time it is just a small leak, perhaps 4-6 ounces each time. Would this be indicative of a frozen/plugged drain? I’d like to know that I’m going in the right direction before beginning the process shown in your video.

freezer ok making ice

the oven comes on, and eventually heats, but seems to constantly re-ignite. the heat element stays on, but the gas flow seems to stop then come back causing a re-ignition of flame. It does longer than it should to reach temp and then has difficulty maintaining.

My gas stove has three smaller burners and one large, hotter burner on the front right side (in my house, next to the wall). Can the large burner be moved to the front left side, next to the counter, where I would use it more easily?
thank you!

Hi – I really appreciate your videos.

I have the issue captioned above and it is just like the problem experienced in your video:

I have checked belt slippage/alignment and the belt switch (as was the problem above) and they both appear fine.

Any suggestions on what I should do next? BTW, I don’t have a multimeter so testing and diagnostics are as not easy as they could be.

It runs for a time but then quits and won’t heat up again til I reset it. It’s not my fuse panel, but that fuse behind the drum. I need to have this working again immediately. please help me.

Noticed things defrosting in freezer, then noticed fridge not cool. Took panel off the inside of freezer to expose coils. Fair amount of ice on the coils and equipment above coils. I spent a fair amount of time searching on the internet and kept checking back. About 2 hours after search began, I checked the freezer again. The defrost heater was red and ice was melting but the fan above it has yet to come on this whole time. The fan blade itself was not frozen and if i manually spin it, it spins freely. What can be wrong? Thank you!

Last week I opened the fridge to find frost everywhere. And then this week it seemed to not be keeping temperature. I’m at a loss and not very handy but am trying to have my husband take a look before calling in someone else. Thanks in advance for this!

Our dishwasher wouldn’t finish the rinse cycle and the lights just keep blinking. I tried canceling and draining but it seems completely unresponsive. Can I reset it somehow or try to restart it? I’d like to have it working, especially over the holidays.

The mfr. date is 01/2004. Compressor runs, but does not cool. Would it be cost affective to repair? Not sure if there is a leak, bad starter or the compressor is bad. It is a top/bottom style, stainless doors, medium in size.

lights, fan work compressor does not cool

Checked the power, has it. Seems finicky. Sometimes if I open and close the door and replug it back in, it works again, just fine.

The freezer is working fine. Its barely cold in the refrigerator. I see no ice build up anywhere. The fan is running. What can I do? I don’t know where anything is in the frig. My manual isn’t very detailed as to what is where.

Clean light blinks 7 times. I have no idea what this means. A Tech Sheet would be greatly appreciated. There is not one with the DW.
Turning off the power to the DW does not reset the light. Thank you.

Both the bake and broil elements in the lower oven do not heat up. Any help will be appreciated. I would also appreciate it if any one could send me a schematic or wiring diagram for the subject oven. Thank you.

Can someone share with me what function the Turbidity sensor performs in a dishwasher.

washer fills, agitates, drains, spins, fills for rinse, stops.

This is actually a series made by Whirlpool 810-811. The motor is not running and water doesn’t drain. However, the board will still go thru its cycles as if it is working properly. Is there a reset button somewhere on this unit to start the motor? This is a 12 year unit which I’ve probably used half a dozen times.

What recommendations can you provide as I’m a DIY’er?

I saw a nice video on load at spin washer video where the Drive Block tab where gone , my seen good but I have the same load and banging vibration at spin when is goes full speed , like the video, what do you think can the block be the problem anyway it woks fine other wise, just load spin LIKE THE VIDEO.

I have a Kenmore 79691172210 Dryer. The heat is not staying on for more than 10 seconds. The igniter turns bright red then the flames come up. It stay on for 8 seconds then the igniter slowly fades and then turns off completely. The barrel still spins. 30-45 seconds later, the flame comes on again and it cycles off again. Can anyone confirm that these are symptoms of a bad gas coil?

After much research, I found it to be the gas coils but for this specific model, I can’t get just the coil and need the whole gas assembly?!?! What gives? A $20 part is bad but I need to pay $130 for the assembly?!

Thank you experts!

I have this machine that won’t spin. 110.27092600 When running automatic diagnostics it hangs up at C7 and the agitator just moves a little bit back and forth but it does not advance past C7. In manual diagnostics it will spin but you can easily stop the tub with your hand. I tried pulling the tub but it got stuck on the shaft. Why does this not advance in auto diag? Any help on this would be appreciated.

I am having an issue with ice gathering at the bottom of my freezer (bottom mount on fridge). It then accumulates and water leaks on to my floor. This was a great video to help me understand the issue, however, when I went to order this part (W10619951), sears sent me the part called Tube Drain (W10344402) which is the exact same part that is currently in place. The grommet is pretty small as well.

How am I able to order the part that is in the video? For now, I cut the grommet a little making it easier for water to flow through, however, I’m nervous too much heat may go up in the hole. Is that something to be concerned with? Would it be advised to just remove the grommet all together?

I took a blow dryer to the inside of the freezer as well and dumped water down the drain hole, which did come out of the other end. Wasn’t able to figure out how to take the back paneling (inside the freezer) off for easier access however.

Thanks for your help. In regards to the part shown in the video (below), I live in Canada.

I think it’s a thermal fuse that I’ve narrowed down but couldn’t find a video on actually replacing it or if I need more than that. Any help would be great.

This started after a long overdue water filter change. I know that water comes through the filter on its way to the icemaker. When I hear ice drop and then the icemaker refill with new water, a puddle forms under the front left corner.