My washer is not spinning properly and I’m wondering if I have a faulty relay in the control panel. In manual mode, the spin test (high and low) was not working. This led me to replace the motor capacitor. The motor capacitor was replaced, but now the spin tests time out after 5 or 10 seconds. Do I have a bad sensor or a bad relay? And would a replacement of the control board panel be in order?
Replaced the splutch cam kit, shift actuator and motor run capacitor.
- Guest asked 3 years ago
The explanation of your description leads me to the Shift Actuator # W10913953 or your motor. You can pin out and ohm the motor to verify . The Shift Actuator has the spin sensor in it. I would start with the spin sensor . See the complete diagnostic sheet and service manual links below. Matt Ace technician
Yes it is normal for the test cycle to be approximately 10 seconds. After running through the test mode are you getting any error codes?
Good Morning gentlemen, Thanks for your replies. In regards to your queries, the manual mode low spin test works for about 5 seconds, then the machine goes into a lock out mode (the lid locked light flashes as well as the other LED lights identified by test sequence). In manual mode, high spin, the test runs for about 10 seconds, then the same thing happens. In other manual mode test sequences (drain, agitation, etc.), the test runs until I hit the start button, which tells the machine to stop performing the test. The fact that the machine stops itself in spin test mode makes me believe that I have a faulty relay or bad sensor in the control panel, yet the control panel checks out (unless I missed something). The error codes revealed after an attempted wash are the same (1. Unbalanced load fault, and 2. basket speed sensor fault). This would account for the manual mode spin test to stop working too, yes? What’s the sequence for testing the speed sensor and/or balance sensor? And do you have a wiring diagram for either? Do I simply bite the bullet and buy a new control panel? I don’t want to invest the money if it’s not going to solve the problem.
Usually i find a faulty actuator(shifter). They are very common. You have replaced it already though. Does the basket spin freely? You could have something causing drag on the basket. Bearings that are going bad in the gearcase can cause this. Usually it gets loud in spin as well. Clothing stuck between the inner basket and outer tub will cause drag as well. Some models have a large coil of red wiring attached to the bottom of the tub next to the motor cover. It is common to find a break in this wire, which will cause the motor to just hum typically. Another possibility is that the hub is stripped. This would cause the off balance load error. When the unit goes to spin the agitator will spin fast but not the outer tub. It will create an unusual sound. The motor will kick on and off a few times before throwing the error code. If none of these things are the issue then you must have a faulty main control. You can also follow the diagnostic steps listed in the tech sheet for the basket speed error code.
Brian, Thx. The basket spins freely. I haven’t pulled it out yet because I don’t think that’s my problem. The hub comment caught my attention because that is exactly what happens during the wash cycle. The unit tries to get into high spin mode but fails after 3 attempts. I’ll take a look this weekend. Thx!
Brian, Thanks for the lead to look into the washing machine hub. In my particular unit, the plastic horseshoe that wedges the hub to the axle had completely worn away. Where there should have been a straight line in the wedge, was a concave divot worn by the axle trying to spin the drum. This would explain why my drum never reached the desired drum speed when loaded, or failed after a certain period of time in manual test mode. In my mind, a bad design decision by the engineer. Thx for the tip. Much appreciated.
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