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NOTE: I placed two black lines on my tub and agitator to observe individual movement.

Initial observations of the Problem:

My top load washer “roared” in either the rinse/spin and completed the complete cycle. (I should have paid better attention to detail.) In the 2nd rinse the washer stopped with water in the tub. I noticed a burning smell and the motor went into thermal shutdown. As I removed the V-belt I noticed much black rubber from the belt( V-belt track was cut). The water pump pulley spun with great difficulty. When I tested the transmission via spinning the transmission pulley counter clockwise (CCW) the tub spun CCW. When I spun the transmission pulley clockwise (CW) the agitator moved CW, however I don’t know it is agitating since I’m doing this task myself.

I believe the water pump pulley bearing cause a lockup such that the V-belt burned rubber. The electric motor recovered from thermal shutdown and turned on after allowing it to cool and with the V-belt removed.

Questions:

1) If the transmission pulley is spun CW what should be seen? Should the agitator spin around the 360 degrees? Would the agitator spin “X” degrees and then restart?

2) Could there be something else wrong with the agitator if it spins and doesn’t agitate?

3) What is the best way to check thrust bearing when the pulley is all black and I don’t see the “markers” the new translucent transmission pulleys contain?

4) Is it possible to just replace the water pump bearing?

Summary:

I know the belt and water pump need fixing or replacing. Questions #1and #2 are the most important since if the transmission is smoked there is a big cost. If you can provide answers to the all questions great?

Thanks in advance,

JP

Model Number
MAV5057AWW
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Here are the pump repair video and part links.

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Hi. You definitely need a belt and a drain pump. I have seen this happen many times before on this model washer. If the unit was spinning and agitating properly prior to the drain pump going bad your transmission is fine. You have verified the agitation portion of the transmission works. Turn the pulley CCW. It will be hard at first, then the trust bearing will release the brake and the tub should start spinning. IF this checks out good then your transmission is fine. I have attached links to purchase the belt and drain pump as well as repair videos.

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Let me answer some of my own questions.

Blockquote
1) If the transmission pulley is spun CW what should be seen? Should the agitator spin around the 360 degrees? Would the agitator spin “X” degrees and then restart?

2) Could there be something else wrong with the agitator if it spins and doesn’t agitate?

4) Is it possible to just replace the water pump bearing?

Blockquote

1 reply: Per spec the agitator should move a 155 degree arc. After I attached the V-belt to the tranny pulley I could spin the pulley CW by hand and see the agitator move ~150 degree CW and then reverse CCW; ie the agitator is working correctly if my observations are correct.

2 reply: Question#2 is moot since I know the agitator should move a 155 degree arc and it does move 155 degree arc.

4 reply: In my case the pulley bearing looks great. The noise was created by the weird metal fins within the pulley shaft and how they rub against the water pump base plate. I’m assuming this is because the pump plastics guts wore out and this causes play in turn the pulley. This play means the pulley moves more than it should and presto a metal on metal noise is made. Maybe this is like a metal brake pad indicator on cars with disc brakes. Maytag may have saved a few cents, however this plastic (water pump) junk wears out with very little use. Very disappointing.

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