I went trough the diagnostic mode and ran a few tests. In the diagnostic mode it starts up normally, fills with water, empties water and spins normally at a slow/medium speed. The error codes that show are F1 E2 which from what I have read is a problem with the Drive motor or Main electronic control board. When I go to calibrate it starts to spin for a split second then it comes to sudden stop as if it gets stuck and the lid lock light starts to blink. This all started because when we try to run the washing machine and it would stay in sensing mode with the lid lock flashing while making a loud humming noise. I eventually smelled an electrical burning smell after leaving it in sensing for several minutes. After attempting this again I am noticing that after it goes through the sensing mode a couple of times and it wants to start up but it looks like it gets stuck because it comes to a sudden stop just like it does when its trying to calibrate.
Could this be the drive motor or main electronic control board?
- Marino asked 9 years ago
Marino, I’m sorry you’re having this problem. See video links on Maytag washer made by Whirlpool ..https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/00-mhw6000x/
For that unit a F1 E2 error code is a motor control fault. To get to the bottom of this according to the manufacturer there are a few things you have to check.
- Check the motor and electrical connections by performing a Gentle or Heavy Agitation test under the Manual Test Mode (access the test mode again by turning the main control knob in the same fashion you did before L, R, R, R, L, R – then turn until SPIN and DONE or 03 are illuminated depending on model). Once in the Manual Test Mode press the start button when there are no lights illuminated or the display reads 00 – this will lock the lid. Next rotate the knob clockwise until Wash, Spin, Done and Lid Lock or 11 is illuminated and press start. This is the gentle agitation mode and the unit should start to agitate shortly. According to the manufacturer if the unit agitates in this mode you may be getting a false error code. If the unit does not agitate properly we can proceed. (Remember while still in the test mode to rotate the knob clockwise until there are no lights illuminated or 00 is present and press start again to unlock the lid).
2.Unplug the washer.
Open the lid and see if the basket will spin freely. If it spins freely go to step 4. If the basket does not spin freely you will need to determine if there is something binding up the basket. If there is nothing blocking the basket (typically clothing between/under tubs) I have found that corrosion on the drive shaft assembly could be causing a higher than normal resistance and making the computer see an error for a higher than normal amp draw.
Remove the console and access the main control.
Visually check that the J2 and J16 connections are fully inserted into the main control. If they are go to step 6, if they aren’t, plug them in and repeat step 1 again.
Plug washer back in. Run the Gentle Agitation test under the Manual Test Mode again.
With a voltmeter set to AC, connect the black probe to J16-5 (N) and the red probe to J16-6 (CW Winding).
If 120VAC is cycling ON during CW rotation go to step 8.
If 120VAC is not present we need to check the main control (which I will cover how to do so at the end)
With your voltmeter set to AC,connect the black probe to J16-5 (N) and red probe to J16-7 (CCW Winding)
If 120VAC is cycling ON during CCW rotation go to step 9.
If 120VAC is not present we need to check the main control (which I will cover at the end of the motor diagnosis).
Remove J16 connector from the main control. With an ohmmeter check the resistance of motor windings – all resistance should be between 3.5 & 6 Ohms. Check between opins J16-6 & J16-5 AND J16-7 & J16-5.
If values are open or out of range go to Step 11.
If values are correct go to step 15.
Tilt washer bacl to access the drive system.
Visually check the mounting bracket and electrical connections to the motor and shifter.
If visual check passes go to step 13
If connections are loose, reconnect and repeat step 1.
With an ohmmeter check the motor wiring harness for continuity between the main control, motor and capacitor.
Motor connector pin 1 to chassis ground
motor connector pin 3 to main control J16-7
motor connector pin 3 to run capacitor pin 3
motor connector pin 6 to main control J16-6
motor connector pin 6 to run capacitor pin 1
motor connector pin 9 to main control J16-5
If there is continuity go to step 14
If there is no continuity on any test you must replace the harness and then run step 1 again
With an ohmmeter check the motor windings at the motor itself with the harness unplugged
Pin 6 & 9
Pin 3 & 9
reading should be between 3.5 & 6 ohms
If values are open or out of range replace the motor
If the values are correct go to step 15
Test the motor run capacitor
Discharge the capacitor by touching the leads of a 20,000 ohm resistor to the two terminals
Disconnect wires from the capacitor
With an ohmmeter, measure across the terminals
If there is a steady increase continue to step 16
If the capacitor is open or shorted, replace the capacitor, calibrate the washer and repeat step 1
If the following steps did not fix the problem the manufacturer says that you need to replace the main control, calibrate washer and then run an Automatic test to verify operation
TESTING THE MAIN CONTROL
1.Unplug the washer
Remove console to access the main control
- Verify that all connectors are inserted properly
Plug washer back in
With a voltmeter set to AC, connect black probe to J7-3 (N) and red probe to J7-1 (L1)
If 120VAC is present go to step 6
If 120VAC is not present check the outlet for proper voltage and 120 VAC at power cord connection within console.
Is the light on the main control illuminated?
Light ON = +5VDC present go to step 7
Light OFF = +5VDC missing go to step 8
With a voltmeter set to DC, connect black probe to J9-3 (Ground) and red probe to J9-8 (+13VDC)
If +13VDC is present control is working properly
If +13VDC is not present go to Step 8
Check to see if shifter is affecting voltage
Remove connector J2 from main control
Plug in washer
Recheck DC voltage from step 6 & 7 go to step 9
If DC voltage returns, look for a short in harness between shifter and main control. if harness and connections look good replace the shifter assembly and plug J2 connection back in
Check to see if user interface is affecting voltage
Remove connector J9 from main control
Plug washer in
Recheck DC voltages from step 6 & 7 – perform voltage checks inside header J9 on the board – BE SURE TO NOT SHORT PINS TOGETHER
If one or more voltage checks are missing go to step 10
IF the DC voltages return check the harness from user interface to main control for short/continuity – if all checks ok replace user interface
Main Control is damaged – replace main control, calibrate washer and run an automatic test cycle
Marino, I hope this helps. If you have any further questions and/or information I will do my best to guide you in the right direction
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