All Answers

Hello
See the service manual link below.

Hello
Are you getting any error codes ? ( UE ) unbalanced error or any other code? See the complete diagnostic manual link below. See the most common issues below we find on your model.

• Loose bolt to rotor
• Hall sensor defective

Not sure on that switch at this time. Look at page 75 of the service manual. It has all trouble shooting steps for the ice maker. I talks about replacing the valve first(which you have done) and then the control board if you still have no water. It does not mention the door switches at all. However, this is by getting the I/M to cycle with the test button. I also found a bulletin on the new valve assembly design. Take a look at that as well to see if it applies to you. I have attached the file. I still think it could be your ice maker but I would follow the trouble shooting steps in the manual so see what you can figure out.

Hello
See the service manual link below. I would start on page #33 for diagnostics to troubleshoot where your loosing power to the compressor and condenser fan. Then go to page #36 for compressor diagnostics. Then page #39 for condenser fan motor diagnostics.

Hi. I have attached the service manual for this unit. Make sure you are getting water to the unit. There are a few things that can stop ice production. The most common would be the ice maker itself on this one. The ice maker could be faulty. Make sure your temperature is good. you need at least 15 deg to produce ice. Possibly a control issue. there is a test button on the ice maker. Press and hold it for about 10 seconds and the ice maker should cycle and fill with water.

Hi. I think I found the instructions for replacing the U.I. I have attached them for you.

Sorry. here is the service manaul.

Hi. I have attached a service pointer that may apply to the issue you are having. It appears you have the right voltage to the U.I. , but look at page 44 of the service manual I have attached. It has diagnostics to determine the right voltage for the U.I. This testing will determine if the U.I is faulty.

Hello, if you have no display at the UI and for sure have 14 volts at the proper pins then it is most likely the user interface. Be sure to check at the power junction box that you have a good connection with 110 volts ac supplying the “configured” service machine control (part # WD21X24901) which is located behind the bottom kick plate and mounted underneath. On some models this control may also have a flashing red light indicator which may display an error code.There should be a tech sheet mounted in the vicinity which will spell out the error code (if so equipped) . Start there and see what you find. We are currently attempting to get some printed technician information on this model and will attach and send to you when found.

Sorry. Try this one.

Hi. I have attached the service manual for you. I will have all the information for this unit including the diagnostic mode. I did not find any information on the issue you are having.

Hi. I have attached the tech sheet for you. i10 seems like an error for no fill. not getting water. inlet valve issue or water supply issue.

Hi. I have attached some inverter diagnostics. Depending on the number of flashes you get from the red LED on the inverter, you will need to check some components for failure. This helps break it down.

Hi. So after you plugged it back in, were the temps were normal for a day? Did you have an even frost pattern on the evaporator when you looked at it? Or was the unit not running for long at that time? Did you have ice or water build up under your crisper drawers? This would be a sign of a clogged drain, which is very common on these units. For both sections to stop cooling together at the same time you must have something failing that controls both. This would include the compressor, sealed system, and control. When the unit stops cooling you will need to check and see what is running and not running. check your compressor and condenser fan motor. Check the evap fan motor operation again and verify you have air flow. If everything is working and running consistently and your temps are not correct you could have sealed system failure. A refrigerant leak or faulty compressor(even though it is running. IF you have a sealed system issue you will not have an even frost pattern across the evaporator. You will have a partial pattern, ball of ice, or no frost. I have attached the service manual for you.

Hi. Try and cancel the cycle. It will not let you enter diagnostic mode unless the unit is in standby. Try to press and hold the start button until the green light stops flashing. about 7 seconds. If this does not work. unplug the unit for at least 5 mins and plug back in. Is the unit doing anything? what lights are flashing?

Hi. Is this a dryer or washer? You have listed a washer model number. I have attached a tech sheet for this model.

Hello
Did you check that you had a good line voltage supply to the main board?
If you have proper 115 volts , I would recommend that you check the connector between the main board and the display board. You will need to check both the 5 and 12VDC power supplies, as well as the communication lines.
If you’re missing voltage at any of those points, you should try disconnecting the display board and performing the test again. This is to rule out whether the voltage is being loaded down.
See the complete service manual link below for all diagnostics.

Hello
Screws that are rusted on ranges and ovens that have not been removed for many years are impossible to remove without stripping the screw head. We start by putting on ( Supco MO44 Rust Buster Liquid Penetrating Oil ) for 24 hours to loosen the rust. Then take a Phillips head or flat head screw driver or whatever screw head you have, put it on the screw head and hit it 3-4 times hard with a hammer on the end of the screwdriver. The blunt force it loosens up the rust. Then turn counterclockwise and hope the screw does not strip out. If you still cannot remove it or it strips out, then you have no choice but to drill it out. We then use the (Titanium Drill Bit Set ) to drill out the screw completely and put in another screw normally one size bigger so it will fit snug. See both links below. Hope this helps.

Supco MO44 Rust Buster Liquid Penetrating Oil
https://www.amazon.com/Supco-MO44-Buster-Liquid-Penetrating/dp/B005E0KM90/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=rust+buster&qid=1586475132&sr=8-5

Titanium Drill Bit Set
https://www.amazon.com/BENOX-BX-109335-Titanium-Durable-Professionals/dp/B07S1B5MN2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Titanium+Drill+Bit+Set&qid=1586475698&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExNlRBUk9SRjRJTlQ1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzYxMTgzVzdWSjI3R1dLRUVLJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwNzg2MDYzU0xYSU1HOTFRQUlCJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Hello, it is possible that the thermal cutoff may cause what you are experiencing so be sure to check it for continuity. Otherwise I have attached the service tech sheet for your model to first be sure you are properly attempting to put the dryer into diagnostics.It is also important to make sure you have the proper 220 volts at the terminal block connection on the back of the dryer where the power cord is attached. Also be sure that all wiring is not burned or compromised at the terminal block. If the door switch and thermal cutoff are good and you have 220 volts at the terminal block without any compromised wiring (and are properly attempting but failing to get unit to enter diagnostics) then it is a strong possibility the user interface is bad. If it is stuck in pause mode and will not accept selections then the user interface is the most likely cause.