GOOD MORNING. THE CUSTOMER PURCHASED A NEW ICE MAKER. I DO HAVE 110 VOLTS AT THE MOLEX TO THE ICE MAKER. I INSTALLED THE NEW ICE MAKER AND JUMPED FROM L TO V AND T TO H WITH NO RESPONSE. I TESTED BETWEEN ALL TEST PORTS AND COULD NOT GET ANY VOLTAGE READING. I THEN INSTALLED THE OLD ICE MAKER AND JUMPED THE L TO V AND T TO H WITH NO RESPONSE. THEN I TESTED ACROSS THE L AND N AND GOT 110 VOLTS. PULLED THE MOLEX FROM THE ICE WATER INLET VALVE AND GOT 75 VOLTS WHEN JUMPED FROM L TO V. THESE TESTS WERE PERFORMED WITH THE FLAP AND DOOR SWITCH MADE. WHEN FREEZER DOOR IS OPEN LIGHT IS BLINK BLINK PAUSE. WHEN I CLOSED THE FLAP IT REMAINED BLINK BLINK PAUSE. NEVER BLOCKED OPTIC EYE WITH MY HAND. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. THANKS, TODD FROM NY.
- Guest asked 7 years ago
FOLLOW STEPS ONE THROUGH TWELVE BELOW TO SET THE ICE MAKER FOR THE TEST.
. THE ICEMAKER CONTROL MUST BE IN THE “ON” POSITION.
. THE ICE BIN MUST BE ON THE DOORAND THE ICE LEVEL BELOW THE NOTCHED OPENINGS.
. THE ICE MAKER MUST BE IN HARVEST IMMEDIATELYAFTER THE WATER FILL.
-
Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power.
-
Slide icemaker out, remove cover.
-
Use an insulated jumper and jump “T”
to “H” to bypass the bimetal to start a
harvest. -
Plug in refrigerator or reconnect power.
-
Close the freezer door to align the
optics and a harvest cycle will begin in
5 seconds. -
Open the freezer door and observe l/M. A
harvest should be in progress.
*lf “T” to “H” is properly jumped and
the icemaker won’t run, stop test and
check the icemaker. -
Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power.
-
Remove the jumper before the fingers
reach 10:00. Reinstall icemaker or be
prepared to catch the water in step 10. -
Plug in refrigerator or reconnect power.
-
Listen for the water fill and disconnect the
power immediately after the fill. -
With the freezer door closed, reconnect
the power. -
Wait 5 seconds to a maximum of 50
. seconds, open the freezer door and
watch the LED.
4 pulses, repeated once, indicates a failed relay. Replace both optics boards
3 pulses, repeated once, indicates optics and relay are good but, l/M is not being sensed/will not operate.
. Check l/M components. . Check l/M circuit and connections back to the receiver board and neutral.
2 pulses, repeated once, indicate the optics are failed. Replace both optics boards.
Steady light for 5 seconds indicates the relay and optics are good, and the receiver senses the icemaker in the
circuit.
No light Unplug refrigerator for 5 seconds and repeat test
- AV Repair Help answered 7 years ago
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Hello
See the link below on forcing the ice maker through the harvest cycle. On your new ice maker, you may have had the optics satisfied and you would not get voltage between L-N. Put in the new ice maker and if you have good water pressure, you will have ice within 12 hours in the bucket. If not go back and run the unit through this harvest diagnostic procedure. If you are not sure if you have good water pressure up to the ice maker switch the two lines at the valve and hit the dispenser pad, that will verify you have good water pressure.
- AV Repair Help answered 7 years ago
-
i a can not open that file. can you send another way?
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Hello
See the complete ice maker diagnostics link below for your model. Matt Ace Technician
OPTICS DIAGNOSTICS WILL NOT RESPOND:
** FOR 5 MINUTES AFTER ICEMAKER BEGINS A HARVEST CYCLE. TO RESET
CONTROL, WAIT UNTIL ICEMAKER PARKS. UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR FOR 5
SECONDS AND REPEAT TEST.
** WHILE CONTROL BOARD IS RUNNING SELF-CHECKS, RESET CONTROL AS
ABOVE.
· THE ICEMAKER CONTROL MUST BE IN THE “ON” POSITION.
· THE ICE BIN MUST BE ON THE DOOR AND THE ICE LEVEL BELOW THE NOTCHED
OPENINGS.
After this start at procdure #1 and go through #10
- AV Repair Help answered 7 years ago
-
GOOD MORNING MATT. I REPLACED BOTH OPTIC BOARDS AND STILL CAN OT GET THE NEW ICE MAKER TO ADVANCE WITH THE T AND H JUMPED. WHEN I HAVE THE OLD ICE MAKER INSTALLED I CAN CAN GET 110 V BETWEEN L AND N. 110 V BETWEEN T AND H, BUT NOTHING WORKS WHEN JUMPED. WHEN I INSTALL THE NEW ICE MAKER I CAN NOT GET ANY VOLTAGE READINGS AT ANY PORTS. I AM LOST.
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