A few months ago, I ran the cleaning cycle on our ice maker. After it completed, everything returned to normal and all seemed fine. Within about couple of days, I noticed a mildew smell coming from the bin. The ice did not smell but there was a nasty moldy smell coming from somewhere inside the bin. I replaced the all the hoses (drains, recirculation hoses, etc) because they looked cloudy and a little nasty. I also found the writing harness from the control box to the connector bracket had a wire that was loose in the harness due to corrosion. I replaced that harness. Put everything back together and everything was fine for a couple of days but the mildew smell came back. I did some deeper checking of things and found a couple of issues.
When the ice maker is turned on, the grid and control box get very warm. If I disconnect the wire grid, the internal light gets brighter so it seems that the grid is pulling some decent amps. I don’t know if that is normal or if there is a short somewhere. Also, the grid stays hot even if its not making ice. Am not sure if that is normal. Because the grid is always hot, that is what is causing the mildew smell. If I disconnect the grid and let the ice maker go, no smell (and big blocks of ice :)). Should the ice maker grid stay hot all the time? If not, what triggers it?
- Guest asked 7 years ago
Hi. I do not think the cutter grid is suppose to be activated all the time. With it staying on all the time, is most likely causing your smell problem. I have attached the tech sheet on this unit for you. I do not even see the cutter grid on any the their circuit break downs. Your grid could be shorted or you could have a stuck relay on the control board. I would run the diagnostic cycle and check the error codes to see if you get any more information out of it. I have attached video for stand alone ice makers as well.
Thanks. I put an ohm meter on the grid and it have low resistance. I just don’t know when the grid should be energized. I did get a bad water sensor during diagnostics and am wondering if it’s that part of could the board have a short?
On the tech sheet it shows the cutter grid should have a resistance of 20 ohms. Also, check each side of the grid to ground to see if it is shorted. You should not have any resistance to ground. If not , trace back or locate the relay on the board and check to see if it is shorted. It should not have any resistance. Also, a quick check before all this would be to turn the ice maker off but still have it plugged in and see if that grid stays on. If so you know there is an issue with something.
Looking at the tech sheet, it says the grid is energized when the unit is on and in cleaning mode. I pulled the grid back out and measured resistance across the connector on the grid. I got ~ 5 ohms (if I am reading my meter right). I checked all the connections on the grid and they look to be in good shape. I checked each side of the grid to chassis and it’s not shorted (no resistance). Assuing the chassis is ground? If I turn the ice maker on, the grid is energized (I confirmed as I am getting 9 VAC from the connector) and it must be drawing a decent amount of current (because the light inside the maker dims slightly when I plug the connector in while the ice maker is on).
If you can, check the grid to ground chassis while it is still in place before you remove it to make sure it’s not shorted. Did the grid stay on when the ice maker was turned off?
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I have provided the the diagnostics sheet and wiring diagram. This links below will show all error displays and all diagnostic modes. Matt Ace technician
Thanks. Looks like it’s the fill sensor as it would never show full in diagnostics and just kept overflowing. I’ll replace that and see how it goes. Thanks again.
Let us know how it works out. Thanks Matt
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