Diagnose why washer will not spin?
I did a Ohms reading on the Mode Shifter Wiring Harness that plugs into the board and got 5.7 so appears to be good. Replaced lid switch and passes Lid Switch test mode. Ran Speed Wash cycle, it filled with water agitated and when it went to the next cycle it just stops. The belt is good. Tub spins freely when done by hand.
Field Service Modes Tests:
When I run pump test, it pumps water out.
When I run Agitate Test, it agitates.
When I run Lid Switch Test, it tests good.
When I run spin cycle test it does the two sprays of water and then nothing….?
- Guest asked 4 years ago
Hi. What error codes are you getting it diagnostics? Check your error codes. It sounds like you may need the software update. I have attached the service pointer for the software update as well as one for the lid lock. You may have already replaced this part number for the lid lock. Take a look at the pointers, especially the software update and see if this sounds like the issue you are having. You could also see if you are getting power to the motor or even out of the control board when the unit is in a spin. The manual will aid you in testing this.
23 Critical Lid Lock Failure. I forgot to mention when I put it in Spin Test it does the two sprays of water but the lid lock light never comes on as demonstrated to turn on in the Spin Test on the Overview & Diagnostics Video. I just checked resistance values at the board connector J511 (1/3 horsepower) the motor: should read approximately 3.8 ohms. It Read between 3.8-4.0 All my experience is with the old style direct drive washers with no computer boards, so not sure I’m testing continuity from main board to lid lock assembly correctly. I’m putting my meter leads on the yellow and red wires on the wire harness lid lock. I’m NOT getting a continuity reading back but I do get a ohms resistance reading of 76.0. Thanks for your help
On page 46 of the service manual it states you should have about 70 ohms from Violet to red on the lid lock. The lid lock is new, so i would not think it is your issue. Page 34 shows how to test the lid lock in diagnostic test mode. See if it will work in the diagnostic mode for you. You could have a faulty control. Put the washer into a drain and spin cycleand let it go. Give it 30 mins, and see if it will put out any new error codes.
Your video and the GE washer manual are giving different instructions to test the lid locks resistance. In your video titled “GE GTW330ASK1WW Washer – Will not run – Lid Lock” Matt demonstrates and gives instruction to take an Ohms reading at the J513 connector from the Red to Yellow wires. When I do that, I get a reading of 76.0 Ohms. with the lid shut and infinite resistance with the lid open. When following the GE Manual (Violet to Red) I get infinite resistance. I cleared the fault codes and then put the washer into drain and spin. I heard it give a couple sprays, stop, and shortly after it sounds like it powers off. I left it untouched for 30 minutes and then checked for error codes. There was only one error code which is 23(Critical Lid Lock Failure). The lid lock tests good in the diagonstics mode test. I’m not sure what to do from here? Thanks for your help.
Sounds like you have a bad main control board. Your new lid lock tests fine and works in diagnostics, so the board would be the only thing left to cause this error code.
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