All Answers

Unfortunately F1 E2 isn’t a simple reset issue. It means that you have a damaged or corrupted memory on the main control board control board. You can try to flip the breaker off to the dishwasher or unplug the dishwasher for 5 minutes and see if it’ll reset, but if that doesn’t work the entire main control board inside your door needs to be replaced. The control board for your model is part number W10854228

To start, there are 3 door switches that must be triggered at the same time when opening or closing the door for safety reasons. Now if one of the switches doesn’t respond properly, the microwave is designed to blow the fuse and cut power to the unit. It sounds like when you were dealing with a door latch issue, you may have blown the fuse inside the microwave. The bigger problem is that the fuse is clipped into a small 3″ x 5″ control board called a “noise filter” in the back right corner of the microwave at the top. You can only access this fuse by uninstalling the entire microwave, unscrewing the outer shell, and pulling the outer shell straight back, up, and off.

Hello
See the service technician sheet link below along with the 5- service bulletins. We do not make phone calls due to the thousands of technicians using our service daily. The wiring diagram should help you trace down the issue. The board shows 115 volts in. Matt Ace technician

If you’re certain the dishwasher is getting power from your house, make sure the junction box below the dishwasher where the power cord connects to the bottom of the dishwasher didn’t short out. If the wires at the junction box check good and the unit is 100% dead, your main board behind the kick panel shorted out.

So first, you are correct, it’s a very common problem. Samsung re-designed their icemaker fan and auger assembly because it wasn’t circulating the air properly which is why the ice maker over freezes. You’ll need to replace that assembly to fix the issue

Hello
There are many possibilities on a no cool refrigerator. I would start with the technical diagnostics mode and service information link below and go to page #32 Troubleshooting. This section will give you stored error codes and a direction to go in. Once you find the error code , you can go to the specific part for testing. Matt Ace technician

Hi. It sounds like you have a bad basket drive hub. This hub attaches the the basket to the gearcase shaft. The splines wear down. Then when it goes to spin the agitator will rotate very fast but the tub does not engage. It will make some noise when this happens. It will give an off balance load error for this. The part number you need is W10396887.

Hi. Im not finding any service pointers on this model. The outlet does need to have proper ground. Even though it may have worked fine with out the ground for years, it can still be causing the problem. There were alot of these units that had issues with the bake not igniting. They updated the wire harness. Your unit may already have the updated harness. It is part number WPW10701462. The new one has black insulation around the wires, so you will be able to tell. I have also replaced the igniters for this issue. After updating the harness or making sure it has the updated harness i would replace the igniter. Fisrt make sure that nothing in the bottom drawer is sticking up above the drawer. Items above the drawer will make contact with the igniter causing it to spark at that contact point rather than where it should spark. I have seem this multilple times as well.

So what you have going on is the main control shorting out. It makes a little click and beep and cuts in and out. Sometimes you can hear it sometimes you cannot, since the main control is actually up in the machine compartment above the fridge near the condenser.

W10789107 is the part number.

In that case the issue is the water valve. The solenoid in the valve is not opening and closing the valve. Replace the water valve on the back of the fridge and that will solve the issue.

Ok. With my experience on this model, the motor relay is faulty on the control board.You will need to order and replace the control board.

If the tub spins smoothly by hand and the belt in on the pulley and the unit will not rotate for agitate or spin replace the MCU board in the unit, it was a very common failure. Here is a link to the part you need and video to install it.

Hi. That is strange that the new display will only work for a day. I show the part number as WP4452999, which is the same one you installed. Make sure you have proper voltage to the unit. It could be a power surge to the unit that keeps taking this part out or the main control that supplies voltage to this display. I do not think you are getting an error code, but go into diagnostics and check for any stored errors. I have attached the service manual and tech sheet for you.

Hello
There are a few things to check. There are no service bulletins on this model.
1) Make sure the floor is level and has a solid base.
2) Make sure the load is not small, this unit has a very large tub. We find that small loads ball up to one side and cause unbalanced vibrations. Large loads for this unit function better.
3) Do you have any error codes ? Go to the job Aid link below on page #55 and run this unit through diagnostics for stored error codes.

Matt Ace technician

The problem with replacing the bulb without unplugging the microwave first is that if there is power going to the bulb socket (and you don’t know when there is since the bulb doesn’t work), it can arc out when replacing the bulb. Now there are no fuses between the board and the display board and the power going to the bulb goes directly to the display board. This happens all the time and your display board is shorted out now. The entire display board would need to be replaced to fix the issue. The part number for the display board is WB27X11080

Hello
See the technician service manual along with the service bulletin link on frost build up. Matt Ace technician

Ok. With my experience on this model, the motor relay is faulty on the control board.You will need to order and replace the control board.

Ok thanks. With my experience, the suspension rods will need to be replaced.These are what hold the tub up, and keep it balanced. They get weak.

Ok thanks. With my experience on this model, the problem is in the ice maker. They have a updated version available for this model. This is the part number for it W10882923.

When the microwave fails to heat, but starts up and runs with the lights and fans working that is typically only one of two issues. The microwave uses a part called the magnetron tube which generates the microwaves for heating. This device is similar to a light bulb and will just burn out out of the blue. Then the microwave will run and do everything as it should be but it will not heat. This can happen unexpectedly with no signs of failure prior to the cycle that stopped working. the other thing that can cause this issue could be a bad door switch. Mainly the lower door switch on the door interlock circuit can fail causing the unit to run but not heat. Typically though if that fails the turntable motor will not work so just confirm if the turntable motor is working or not when it’s running. If it is the door switch is not likely your issue. the magnetron tube is an expensive part and generally will run between $150 to $200 on average just for the part. Often the cost of the part and labor exceed the replacement on most microwaves.