All Answers

I would check the drive belt on the back of the tub. Below is a link to the belt.

Check the siphon gap next to your sink faucet, all dishwasher drain lines either go to a siphon gap next to the faucet or the trap/disposal port. The siphon gap is that small dome sitting next to your faucet. You need to remove the cap on it and then there will be a center piece that pops out or is round and unscrews to get in the middle of the siphon gap. Check that and see if you have a partial blockage in the siphon gap. If you do not have a siphon gap follow the drain line to where it connects to under the sink and check the end port for partial blockages both in the drain hose and at the trap or disposal port where it connects to. See link below for siphon gap checking. If you do not find anything you may have something blocked in the pumop port or drain port off the pump, that you would have to take the unit out and the pump off to check it.

Make sure the dishwasher is getting power first. If so, remove the kick panel below the door and look for the 3″ x 3″ sheet metal box. Remove the cover and you can see the junction box wire connections to the dishwasher. These wires will often short out, melt, or get loose. Check all the connections and if they are faulty or burnt, cut the wires back and re-wire the junction box (with the power disconnected to the dishwasher of course). If everything checks good–you’ll need to order and replace the control board in the upper right hand corner of the door.

Sorry
See the service bulletin link below. I believe this could be your issue. Matt Ace technician

Hello
Can you double check your model number # JDD4000WS2. We cannot find anything even close to this. Matt Ace technician

Hello
There is one service bulletin on warm fresh food temperatures. If you have a part of your defrost system that is not functioning, it will take 4-6 days to frost up the evaporator. If the evaporator fan is not moving enough air or stops intermittently it will cause a frost build up on the coil within one day.

( Service Bulletin )
Replace the fresh food evaporator fan with part WR60X29099. The new fan is a
direct replacement for the original and does not require software to be updated (updating the
software with NewFI or with a SUM is no longer required for this repair). When the original
fan part number is ordered it will supersede to the new part number (WR60X29099).

Hello
There are no service bulletins at this time on this unit. I would go to page the service manual link below on page 2-13 for possible causes.

Symptom
CAN START A CYCLE BUT ONLY RUNS FOR A SHORT TIME – CYCLE DOES NOT COMPLETE (CLEAN LED OR COMPLETED MAY BLINK).

Cause
CONTROL CANCELLED CYCLE DUE TO ERROR DETECTED WITH WASH MOTOR OR LOW WATER. See section 2-13 for fix.
Matt Ace technician

So it sounds like when you opened the door you likely blew a fuse in your microwave. The problem is, the microwave must be uninstalled and the entire outer shell needs to be removed to access the fuse. The fuse is clipped into a small 3″ x 4″ control board in the upper right corner of the microwave.

I would check the drive belt on the back of the tub.

Hello
See links below for technician service manuals and service bulletins. Matt Ace technician

Any refrigerator with a main control board where power comes form the control board and goes to the compressor can not use a 3 in 1 hard start. gsh25sgrbss has a main control board on the back behind an 8″ x 10″ sheet metal panel so you can not use a hard start or it’ll short out the control board.

Hello yes with my experience, the problem is either in the main control board or a thermistor.

Hello
Unfortunately Danby is not a product we support. We do not have any access to technical information on any Danby products. Sorry we cannot help. Matt Ace

Unfortunately there is no adjustment to the icemaker cube size whatsoever. The icemaker has sensors inside that determine how much water to fill with and if it’s overfilling with water and the cubes are too large–the entire icemaker must be replaced because it’s not sensing properly I’m sorry to say.

Ok. It sounds like the lid lock or main control is bad. Have you tried unplugging the unit for 10minutes to reset it?

I recommend replacing the motor pump assembly on this unit.

Unfortunately this is not an issue that can just be reset. No real troubleshooting is needed based on your symptoms I already know what is wrong. So unfortunately this is a well known problem for this particular refrigerator and you won’t see any signs of failure but the problem is the high voltage control board on the back of the refrigerator behind the 8″ x 8″ access panel. if you pull the refrigerator out, there is a panel on the back and if you remove it that board behind that panel needs to be replaced.

Unfortunately there is no brightness level on this. If it very faint then the smart board has a problem. If it is at normal brightness then that is all it is designed to do.

Child Lock • After pressing the “START” button you can activate the Child Lock feature. • Press and hold down the “<” button until “CL” appears in the Countdown Display window. Now any button you press (except ON/OFF) will not function and “CL” will display each time. • To deactivate, press and hold the “<” button until the “CL” disappears from the Countdown Display window.

Ok so F1 F2 F3 F5 are all different error codes of course. F1 means your display relay control board is shorted. F2 and F3 means that your oven sensor is shorted. And F5 means that your door latch has failed. Now, since you’re getting F1 and your display control board is shorted, this is likely what is giving all the other false error codes. You’ll need to start by replacing the display control board which is about $150-200 normally and that will likely fix all the error codes you’re getting if these problems are all related.