All Answers

Hi. If this is only happening on the casual setting it may just be that this is a delicate cycle and the washer spins at a slower speed. I have attached the mini manal for you. Run the diagnostics to see if you are getting any error codes. There are also 2 service bulletins that could be related to your issue. I have attached both bulletins.

Hi. Yes, it looks like you are talking about the hood TCO. This is a normally open t-stat. When temperature reaches 158 degrees, the t-stat will close which will then complete the circuit for the vent fan motor. I have attached the service manual for you. page 5 has the wiring diagram I was referring to.

Hello

The F7E1 Error Fault is displayed when the main control cannot determine speed of basket, or speed changes too quickly.
1) Locked rotor—check that basket, impeller, and motor can rotate freely.
2) Check harness connections from main control to motor and shifter.
3) See TEST #3a: Drive System–Shifter, page 13 in technician sheet link below.

Hello
Have you run it through the diagnostic mode? A few possibilities is the door switch, motor shutting off on overload due to bad motor or drum restricted. See technician sheet to look for stored error codes.

Recalling Last Error Code:
1) Press power and look for console light up.
2) Wait at least 10 seconds, then simultaneously press and hold temp and select (set) buttons for 3 seconds.
3) The display will show the last error in memory.4Clear the display and return to normal operation by touching any button or by pressing the power button
Factory Default Reset:
1Press power and look for console light up.
2Wait at least 10 seconds, then simultaneously press and hold the dryness (dry level) and options buttons for 3 seconds. Audible signal will indicate that the settings have been reset.

Hello

        You not have a defrost timer. It is built into the electronic control board. #5304498023. See parts breakdown below. Matt Ace technician  

The error indicates that a button may be stuck as you said. Use a hair dryer and heat up the touchpad while the washer is unplugged. Rub your thumb over each button and see if it’ll reset the error. If not, the entire touch control panel needs to be ordered and replaced to resolve the issue.

OK that is an extremely common issue on that unit you need to replace the rear main power board in the unit. If you pull the unit out and go behind it you will find a squarish access cover off to the left side behind the unit. Remove the screws to that and you will see the main power board. That is a basic plug and play board with a couple standoffs that you can squeeze with a pliers to release the board.

Most likely the pump, yours has a cleanout on the front of the pump, however there is no drain. You have to bail as much as you can, I tilt them up at a 45 to put the pump higher than the water level and then you can swap the pump with that last amount of water not spilling everywhere. To access the pump 3 screws across front bottom panel. And remove the lower 1/3 of the machine. Your looking right at the pump in the center.This is a pretty simple one. Just 2 hoses, and 1 wiring connection. Once you see the new one, it’s hard to explain how it mounts but very self explanatory looking at the new part. Lemme know if you need anything else on this one. No charge for further assistance, and happy to walk you through swapping it, but yes an F21 is a drain error, if there are no clogs it’s a bad pump. Thanks!

ok the error code of F3E1 WATER LEVEL SYSTEM ERROR The ACU detects an out of range pressure signal.
Most likely the issue is the water level pressure switch

The problem you are having is very common with that model. It indicates the main control board is bad. The board is located in the back of the refrigerator on the left hand center. Behind a square metal panel. The part is WPW10310240

Unfortunately this is not an issue that can just be reset. No real troubleshooting is needed based on your symptoms I already know what is wrong. So unfortunately this is a well known problem for this particular refrigerator and you won’t see any signs of failure but the problem is the high voltage control board on the back of the refrigerator behind the 8″ x 8″ access panel. if you pull the refrigerator out, there is a panel on the back and if you remove it that board behind that panel needs to be replaced.

OK that is an extremely common issue on that unit you need to replace the rear main power board in the unit. If you pull the unit out and go behind it you will find a squarish access cover off to the left side behind the unit. Remove the screws to that and you will see the main power board. That is a basic plug and play board with a couple standoffs that you can squeeze with a pliers to release the board.

With my experience on this model. The internal fuse is blown on the Microwave, possibly due to a faulty door switch.

You are correct then, you just have a bad control board. A bad door switch can cause a similar problem but the turntable would stop when the door was opened if that was the issue. Either way, the part number for the board is WB27X10791. You don’t need to ground anything out when replacing the board. Just make sure not to touch any of the high voltage components or wires in the back of the microwave in the back right corner because there is a capacitor on the high voltage side that can hold up to 3000 volts (even though it’s supposed to lose charge when working normally).

To remove the handle, you have to take the door apart which has screws coming from the inside of the door. Below is a link to a video that shows you the process of taking the door apart. In video, it looks easier than it really is because the door has been taken apart several times before so the clips don’t hold as tight as a new microwave.

If the dispenser only dispenses crushed cubes, this means that your bar along the bottom of the ice storage bin is not being lifted. If you remove the bin you’ll see the metal bar along the bottom of it which is used to change the ice dispenser from crushed to cubed. Look at the wall behind the ice bin now. You’ll see a hole that the metal bar goes through. This is where a white plastic stirrup pulls up on the lever to change the bin to “cubed” ice. Make sure that the metal bar does not slide under the stirrup when you re-install the bucket. Try the dispenser again and if it still won’t dispense cubed ice, you’ll need to order and replace the ice solenoid that lifts the stirrup looking device behind the back panel inside the freezer.

Sadly you will need to replace the board, replacing the fuse will not solve the issue, its likely not just a blown fuse but other capacitors and such on the board as well.

Hello
Just a few things I can think of that could cause this issue.
1) Make sure there were instructions on the new board you installed. The GE board you installed WR55X10942 will ask you to eliminate the thermistor wire in pin 2 of J1 in specific serial models. Did you follow the instructions provided in the box ? If not the damper will not work correctly and you will get warm temperatures in the refrigerator section. See the link on this page and click on the instructions on right hand side of the page. https://www.google.com/search?q=wr55x10942&rlz=1C1CHBD_enUS740US740&oq=WR55X10942&aqs=chrome.0.0l6.892j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
2) Second thing to check is making sure your evaporator fan motor is running in the correct direction and make sure the fan blade is not put on upside down.
With -9 degrees in freezer you do not have a sealed system issue. Hope this helps Matt Ace technician

Sure, you unplug the unit first. You have to remove the control panel and then you will find four screws you take out then you lift the front edge and push it back and it will release. Control Panel Removal 1. Remove the cycle select knob by pulling it forward. 2. Remove the knob retainer by pulling it forward. 3. Remove the T-20 control panel screw located behind the knob retainer. 4. Lift the control panel straight up and tilt it forward. 5. Remove all main board wire harness connections and remove the control panel.

No that will not cause the thermal fuse to blow. The cause is an obstructed vent, weather the vent is actually obstructed with lint in the hose or at the exit point or in the hose is to long and bunched up. The vent needs to be clear and straight as possible for the dryer not to build up excessive heat and blow the fuse. The timer not advancing may be because of the fuse.