All Answers

so it sounds like during the self cleaning the oven overheated and blew the control board sadly. This happens alot with models during self cleaning.

t comes out the left side of the oven which means you have to pull the oven out, remove the screws below the left side outside panel, remove the screws coming in from the back of the left side panel, unplug the oven, remove the screws below the front lip of the cooktop so you can lift the cooktop up and back, and then take the left side panel off. Then you can unscrew the sheet metal cover on the left side of the oven covering the element and pull the element out the left side of the oven for replacement.

F8 means that your door latch is stuck somewhere between the open and closed position. Open the oven door and unplug the oven or flip the breaker off for 60 seconds. Re-apply power and then push in the door switch of the oven so it thinks the door is shut. Wiggle the latch hook while holding the door/light switch in and see if you can help it move in case it’s sticking. If the F8 error reappears, the door latch needs to be replaced. You can not use self clean until you replace the latch either way because it might get stuck locked and won’t allow you to open the door.

If none of the setting are heating in the oven, either your main control board failed, your thermal fuse failed, or the oven is only getting 110 volts instead of 220 volts. You’ll need a multimeter to test anything that could be wrong but below is a link to the fuse mounted to the back of your oven so you know what you’re looking for.

You will have to use a channel locks or pliers to open the hinge and move the lock tab to position to hold the hinges in place.

F8 means that your door latch is stuck somewhere between the open and closed position. Open the oven door and unplug the oven or flip the breaker off for 60 seconds. Re-apply power and then push in the door switch of the oven so it thinks the door is shut. Wiggle the latch hook while holding the door/light switch in and see if you can help it move in case it’s sticking. If the F8 error reappears, the door latch needs to be replaced. You can not use self clean until you replace the latch either way because it might get stuck locked and won’t allow you to open the door.

The heating and cooling of the porcelain and steel, or the movement of electric elements in their mounting brackets, in the oven may result in popping/cracking noises coming from the oven.

This is normal.

Sometimes a dirty oven with grease can cause this also, when the left over grease heats up it will pop just like if it is in a frying pan

Also its made of steel and porcelain so as these materials heat up and cool down it can expand and contract them creating a popping sound.

As long as it functions normal you should be ok

ok so it sounds as if you have turned on the child safety control lock .

To turn off Lock, press and hold SANI RINSE/CONTROL LOCK or DELAY (depending on model) for 3 seconds. Light turns off.

And I`m assuming by you saying it has locked up that you are in fact saying the control lock light is illuminated near the sani rinse keypad .

Unfortunately your refrigerator went into demo mode for some reason. To exit, just press and hold the LIGHTING and FREEZER buttons together at the exact same time for 5 seconds. That should exit demo mode. Try several times if it doesn’t work the first time because the touchpad is very sensitive to pressing the buttons at the same time.

Probably the best thing to do is determine if the icemaker isn’t cycling and calling for water, or if water isn’t actually making it to the refrigerator. First, make sure the freezer is below 10 degrees because the icemaker will not cycle if the temperature in the freezer is over 10 degrees. Next, fill up the icemaker with a cup of water and wait 24 hours to see if it cycles and dumps the ice. If it doesn’t cycle, replace the icemaker because it’s just bad. If it cycles but doesn’t fill up with water, check the fill tube behind the icemaker and if it’s frozen solid, use a hair dryer and thaw it out. You can also make sure it’s not frozen by disconnect the water line coming from the icemaker and going to the valve at the valve. Blow through the water line to make sure it’s clear. If it’s not frozen, you’ll need to replace the electronic water valve on the back of the refrigerator where your water supply line from your house connects to your refrigerator itself.

Ok thanks. With my experience on this model, the only thing that would prevent water to the ice maker, and to the dispenser, is either the water valve, or the filter housing.it holds the filter. You will need to unhook water lines going to it to make sure you have water.

The lid switch is broken internally, you will need a new switch. The video at the link below shows how it is replaced.

Hello
See the technician sheet link below. Go to page #2 to enter into the diagnostic mode. This will show stored error codes to proceed forward.

A few more things you can check.
1) Make sure you have proper polarity and grounded outlet.
2) Make sure the igniter is properly grounded.
3) We have seen on this model pots and pans in the bottom drawer causing issues near the igniter not to have a good ground, remove the pans and try it for a few days.
4) The DSI board failing .
5) main board failing.

Matt Ace technician

The E3A error code is displayed when the unit senses excessive heat and disables the unit from operating.

Typically, this is caused by reduced airflow resulting from a clogged vent duct or fan motor due to lint and residue buildup.

OK if the washer is spinning you know the belt is moving which means that your transmission has just failed. I’m not sure it’s worth fixing, but if you did want to fix it, it would be about $450 to have a technician replace it because it requires specialty tools so it’s not something you can do yourself.

You need to get the last stored error out of the machine. Follow these directions carefully.

1. Make sure the unit is off no lights on anything.

2. Rotate the dial quickly counterclockwise a few full turns stopping at 12 oclock

3. Turn the Dial and GO SLOWLY and STEADY

3 clicks forward(Clockwise)

1 clicks back (Counterclockwise)

1 click forward.(Clockwise)

All lights should light up if done correctly.If not start it over and remember go SLOW and STEADY between clicks count 1 Mississippi between clicks.

Once they do all light then you want to rotate the dial forward(clockwise) until DONE only is lit. Once that is lit, press Start then rotate the dial 1 click forward and tell me what is flashing and the pattern.

Hello
See the technician sheet link below. Go to page #2 to enter into the diagnostic mode. This will show stored error codes to proceed forward. Matt Ace technician

Then the main control is bad, the main Central Control Unit off to the right side in the white or gray plastic case. They do go bad often and then the unit will not do anything at all.

You have an issue with the drain line in the kitchen, it is restricted and not able to handle the flow from the washer. If newly remodeled, I would have your contractor back out as this is not a problem with the machine but with your house drain. You cannot slow the water drainage from the washer so you will have to address the plumbing issue.

Hello
See the schematic link attached. The broil element is controlled by the main control board and is wired in series with a thermal fuse only. It looks like you have a broil relay stuck. Matt Ace technician