All Answers

I show the part number for the ERC as WB27T11252. Is this the part number you installed? I have attached the service manual for you.

Hi. This is a common issue with these units. I always find the upper left door switch to be the issue. You might also find that one of the cams on the interlocks is pushed back, so when the door closes it will not depress one or two of the switches. I have attached the tech sheet for you. There is not a service manual. All info you will need is in the tech sheet. I also found a service pointer for this issue. There is a kit to replace the interlocks and maybe the switches as well. I have attached the pointer for you also.

Unfortunately your refrigerator went into demo mode for some reason. To exit, just press and hold the LIGHTING and FREEZER buttons together at the exact same time for 5 seconds. That should exit demo mode. Try several times if it doesn’t work the first time because the touchpad is very sensitive to pressing the buttons at the same time.

Hello
Have you checked the outlet for proper polarity and ground ? Are you getting any error codes after reboot ? If not go to page #22 in the Technician Service manual link below to look for stored error codes. If you do not have any stored error codes then proceed forward to page #23 troubleshooting summary. We find more often the control board verses touch control board. Matt Ace technician

Hello
The 5A error is a high temperature error due to overload.

Troubleshooting tests

1) Find out if the unit was overloaded. If not, remove the belt from the motor and spin the motor pulley. Does the motor spin free? If no replace motor , if yes go to manual link below page #6.

2) Spin the tub pulley. Does the tub spin free? If no check tub bearings , If yes go to page #6 in the manual link below.

3) 3. Disconnect the plug from the motor and measure the resistance of the winding’s (pin 1 to pin 2, pin 1 to pin 3, pin 2 to pin 3). All readings should be between 3 and 6 Ohms. If the readings are correct, check wiring from motor to motor control board, If good, replace the motor control board. If the readings are incorrect, replace the motor. Matt Ace technician

ok so it sounds as if you have turned on the child safety control lock .

To turn off Lock, press and hold SANI RINSE/CONTROL LOCK or DELAY (depending on model) for 3 seconds. Light turns off.

And I`m assuming by you saying it has locked up that you are in fact saying the control lock light is illuminated near the sani rinse keypad .

If the bucket is forming a large block of ice, either the icemaker is leaking and needs to be replaced (you’ll see a mound of ice in the bucket directly below the icemaker if this is the case), or your freezer is going into defrost too long. There is a 1″ round defrost sensor clipped onto the top of the silver evaporator coils that should shut the defrost cycle off if it’s getting too warm. This sensor would need to be replaced. You’d need to take everything out of the freezer and remove the entire back wall panel inside the freezer to see the silver coils and replace the thermostat sensor.

Ok thanks. With my experience on this model, the only thing that would prevent water to the ice maker, and to the dispenser, is either the water valve, or the filter housing.

Check the siphon gap next to your sink faucet, all dishwasher drain lines either go to a siphon gap next to the faucet or the trap/disposal port. The siphon gap is that small dome sitting next to your faucet. You need to remove the cap on it and then there will be a center piece that pops out or is round and unscrews to get in the middle of the siphon gap. Check that and see if you have a partial blockage in the siphon gap. If you do not have a siphon gap follow the drain line to where it connects to under the sink and check the end port for partial blockages both in the drain hose and at the trap or disposal port where it connects to.

HI. I have attached the service manual for you. Run the diagnostics to check for stored error codes. Then run the diagnostics to test each component. Page 2 tells how to enter diagnostics and page 3 tells how to activate each test. You can test everything hear. water valves, lid lock, agitate, spin, drain etc., to see which component is not working properly.

So unfortunately this is a well known problem for this particular refrigerator and you won’t see any signs of failure but the problem is the high voltage control board on the back of the refrigerator behind the 8″ x 8″ access panel. if you pull the refrigerator out, there is a panel on the back and if you remove it that board behind that panel needs to be replaced.

The only thing that wouldn’t be worth fixing is a freon leak or a bad compressor. Most likely that won’t be your issue, but if it is, then when you follow my instructions and remove the back panel inside the freezer, the silver coils will only be partially frosted (some on top but not on bottom). More than likely however, you either have a defrost problem or the fan inside the freezer behind the back panel isn’t running and needs to be replaced. Pull everything out of the freezer and remove the back panel. If the fan isn’t running then replace it. If there is a lot of frost build up, then use a hair dryer to thaw it all out. You will then need to test continuity through the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. The defrost heater runs along the bottom of the silver coils and the defrost thermostat is the 1″ round device clipped onto the top of the silver coils. If either part doesn’t have continuity, you need to replace it or it stops the unit from thawing on it’s own.

To remove the back panel itself, just remove all the screws going into the back panel to start. There is a plastic vent directly in the middle toward the top of the back panel that you must unclip. There are 3 hidden clips you must pry on with a flat head screwdriver to release this vent panel and below is a picture where I drew an arrow to all the clip locations you need to pry on.

To the right of this vent is a little oval plastic cover which houses a temperature sensor. Slide a flat head screwdriver into the slit on the front of the cover and pry in the hole to release this cover and get the sensor out of the way. Now you can pull the back panel off.

Ok thanks. With my experience on this model, the defrost drain is stopped up.You will need to order and replace this part number W10619951This is a updated drain tube kit.

The High Temp Alarm system will alert you if the freezer or refrigerator temperatures exceed normal operating temperatures due to a power outage or other event. When activated, the High Temp Alarm lightwill illuminate. If the freezer or refrigerator temperaturees haveexceeded these limits, the display will alternately show the current compartment temperatures and the highest compartment temperatures reached when the power was out. An audible alarm will sound repeatedly. Press the High Temp Alarm pad once to stop the audible alarm. The High Temp Alarm light will continue to flash and the temperatures will alternate until the temperatures have stabilized. To turn off High Temp Alarm, press and hold the High Temp Alarm pad for three seconds. The indicator light will go off.

The door open alarm

The Door Open Alarm will alert you when one of the doors has been left open for five continuous minutes. When this happens, an audible alarm will sound every few seconds until the door is closed OR press the Door Open Alar

m pad to deactivate the feature.

Access the User Preferences menu to:ï Change the temperature display from ∞F to ∞Cï Enable or disable audible alarm sï Activate the Sabbath Mod To access the User Preferences menu, press and hold the Door Open

Alarm pad for three seconds. When in the User Preferences mode, a short title for the feature will appear in the Freezer temperature display and the feature status will appear in the Refrigerator display

.

1.Use the freezer UP and Down control to scroll through the features.

2.When the desired feature is displayed, use the refrigerator UP and Down control to change the status.

3.When changes are complete, press the Door Open Alarm pad for three seconds OR close the refrigerator door

Temperature Display (F_C) Change the display to show temperatures in degrees Fahrenheit or degrees Celsius.

Alarm (AL)
When the Alarm mode is OFF, all audible alarms will be disabled until the feature is turned on.

If you have found this information helpful please rate with 5 stars at the top so I can be credited for my time. Rating does not stop you from following up with me. I hope you are able to solve your problem with the alarm.

Hello
See complete service manual links below. We have seen issues with damaged impellers in the pump causing this type of issue. Or items restricted in the drain hose causing slow drain issues. Matt Ace technician

See links below for additional help

F2 E1 means that your touch control panel has shorted out. If you think it may have come into contact with moisture or steam, unplug the oven or flip the breaker off for 24 hours and let it dry out. If it still acts up when you re-apply power, your touch pad will need to be replaced because it has failed.

Hi. I have attached the tech sheet for you.

Hello
The Fresh Food Defrost Cycle in refrigerator evaporator utilizes an adaptive defrost cycle that operates a metal sheath heater to remove frost from the evaporator. If the main board senses any door opening, the defrost cycle is every 12 hours. Otherwise, the defrost cycle is 16 hours.The control board determines the length of time the heater is energized. It does this by monitoring the fresh food evaporator thermistor. Once the temperature of the thermistor reaches 54°F (12°C), the control cycles the defrost heater off. A bimetal safety thermostat provides a backup in the event the evaporator thermistor fails. The safety thermostat prevents the temperature from 140 degrees. See page #24 in the (Technical diagnostics mode and service) link below. This will give you complete diagnostic information. Matt Ace technician

Unfortunately there are no fuses or cut outs on this oven that will stop the display panel from coming on. You know the oven is getting 110 volts because the cooktop still works, which means your display control board has just failed and would need to be replaced I’m sorry to say.