All Answers

Hello
We only have a service manual on the PDT760 series. See link below. Are you getting power to the motor pump ? I would start there. Matt Ace technician

If the unit is not running and all the lights light up when you touch any button on the display, than that usually means you have a bad main control board. This is pretty common with this model. The main control board is in the back of the refrigerator about half way up on left side. It is behind a metal panel. Once you replace the board, than you have to re-program it. Instructions usually come with the new part or they are listed on the tech sheet which is behind the kick (grill)plate on very bottom.

Unfortunately there are no fuses or cut outs on this oven that will stop the display panel from coming on. You know the oven is getting 110 volts because the cooktop still works, which means your display control board has just failed and would need to be replaced I’m sorry to say. The part is about $170 and below is a link to the part you’d need to order and replace for your model. You can access it by pulling the oven out, unplugging the oven, and removing the screws coming in from the back of the control panel. The back panel will remove and you’ll see the display board which you can unscrew and swap out.

It sounds to me like the door switch is likely faulty. Do you have a meter to perform any electrical testing with?

It sounds like your bake igniter is just going out and needs to be replaced. Igniters generally last about 6-8 years normally and then they either stop working all together, or they just get weak and don’t draw 3.2 amps even though they are glowing. If an igniter doesn’t pull 3.2 amps, the oven gas safety valve will not open up. Now the bake igniter is mounted to the bake burner below the floor inside the oven so you’d need to pull the floor out of the oven to access the igniter for replacement.

HI. I have attached the service manual for you. Frost on the back wall is an indication of a defrost unit. The unit is most likely not self defrosting. Check your defrost system.

Hi. Refer to test 193 of the diagnostics in the tech sheet I have attached for you. This is for the ice maker.

Hello
See complete service manual link below with complete ice maker test procedures. Matt Ace technician

There is no access panel to get to that bulb, the only way to replace the bulb is to unmount and take down the microwave and remove the cover over the top and sides of the microwave. It is a lot of work just to change a bulb.

Hello
See complete diagnostic link below. If the condenser is not moving any heat and the evaporator does not have an even frost pattern you may have a starved evaporator low refrigerant charge ( Sealed system problem ) . Do you have any error codes ? If not , go to page #27 in the link below to troubleshooting without error display. Matt Ace technician

Hi I have attached the service manual for you. Page 22 talks about the error code you are getting. It has to deal with the clutch. I would check for mechanical friction with the clutch since it will work without a load. page 17 shows how to disassemble for the clutch. The manual does not list any troubleshooting procedures for this error code.

This is a microwave model number. Please send proper model number

With my experience on this model, there is problem in the main control.

Either your washer is stuck in flood mode, or you have a stuck relay on the main control board and the entire board would need to be replaced. Now if it’s in flood mode, all you need to do is unplug the washer for 60 seconds, then plug it back in and wait 20 minutes. The flood mode will time out and the drain pump will stop after 20 minutes (you must unplug it for 60 seconds first to let the washer know you’re in front of the washer). If it resets, then great! It goes into flood mode if it takes longer than 6 minutes to fill with water so make sure you have good water flow and make sure you don’t leave the lid open when it’s filling or overload the washer.

Hello

      If your Bosch dishwasher is flashing with an E21 error code, this is telling you there is a wash motor/ pump  issue. Start by checking  the wash motor and capacitor . See if the pump is  jammed, blocked pump or not running due insufficient water flow.  Matt Ace technician 

Hello
Have you run the unit through the diagnostics mode ? Are you getting any error codes ? Go to page #52 in the Technical diagnostic link below. There are many possibilities. Start with the flow chart below. Matt Ace technician

Can you provide a better model number ?

Hello
See the schematic link below. This is a heat release ice maker. You can check for incoming voltage once you take off the ice maker cover.
1) For power to ice maker check at L -N
2) To harvest the ice maker jump out T-N
3) Ohm out the inlet valve from V-N

The thermostats rely on the interior temp of the dryer. This being said, if the vent is restricted, the dryer heats up quickly and then holds (retains) the heat longer then it should and the heat does not come on as soon as it should. There are no parts that can be replaced to overcome this EXCEPT proper venting. By reducing the diameter by 25% you are really reducing the volume of air by near 40%.

It sounds like you’ve already tried to clean your vent, but just to make 100% sure it’s not the issue you’ll want to disconnect it. First, make sure your vent is cleaned and the best way to do that is just run a cycle without the vent hose connected to the back of the dryer to see if things change. If your dryer still won’t dry properly, then this is a pretty common issue unfortunately and it means that your gas coils are starting to fatigue and need to be ordered and replaced. As the coils heat up, the unit stops opening the valve or can’t hold it open as long as intended because it gets weak. You just need to order and replace the 2 black cylinder gas coils located directly in front of the igniter.