All Answers

Ef2 could mean the vent hose is blocked or has come off. Slide it out from the wall and make sure the hose is ok.

This board should come as a complete kit with multiple control boards and wiring harnesses. Did you install the complete kit or just try to replace the board. Also this control board may require you to program it to the specific unit however if this is the case it should state that in the instructions.

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See the technician diagnostics sheet and go to page #8 on the wiring diagram. Find the ice maker , the number #4 terminal at the ice maker has an inline fuse the opens or fails. This will happen if the ice maker jams from a cube that gets stuck. I would see if that fuse is open, very common. Matt Ace technician

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I have added a service manual link below. Are you getting any error codes ? There were some issues when you deactivate the Child Lock function. Have you made sure child lock function is on ?

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We do not have a video on this product. I have supplied the service manual link that has component breakdowns, and a parts breakdown link. I would run the unit through diagnostics and isolate each component to see where the noise may be coming from.

With suspension rods when you press on the top sides of tub and press down, the suspension rods should allow it to go right back up without bouncing, almost stiff. If there is bouncing, although suspension rods may look okay, they can still be bad. Also, where the drum hooks to the gear case under the agitator or wash plate if the holding mechanism of the drum is loose it will cause it to go off balance. To test this, shake the drum while holding the plastic tub to see if it wobbles or stays stiff. This is where i would start.
If these check ok, i would look in to the speed sensor on this unit. It is what monitors if the unit is going off balance, and could possibly be bad. This has tricked technicians in the past and is where i would go if the shocks are good as well as the tub being firmly attached to the gear case.

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See the complete service manual link below. I would start by running the unit through diagnostics. Matt Ace technician

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I have searched through the service bulletins for your issue. Please check out the links below on all bulletins we have in our system. I have provided the bulletin series for your model from 1999-2001. Hope this helps

That knob behind the door on the front of the washer is your drain catch, so all the water left inside the wash tub will come flowing out when you unscrew the knob. That is normal.

As for water leaking out, it may have just overflowed and gone out the overflow hose. The best thing to do it just pull the washer out and remove the back panel. Watch a load and if it doesn’t leak, just be sure to not wash your rugs inside the washer again. If you see water leaking out the front, your rubber door gasket has likely been ripped and will need to be replaced.

Hello, you have a flex tray ice maker. The part # is AEQ72909603 and was actually built by LG. There is a good chance that it is not releasing all cubes at times and allowing a slight overfill. We have replaced many ice makers due to the issue you are describing. The water inlet valve may also be leaking. I have attached a video on this ice maker replacement and diagnostics and also the water inlet valve replacement. (on the LG equivalent unit)

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The F3 E1 Error is a water level system error. Items to check. See manual links below.

1) Check connections from tub to air trap.
2) Air trap to pressure hose.
3) Pressure hose to water level sensor.
• See TEST #7 (Water Level Sensor) on page 17.

It sounds like the drain filter is clogged. You will need to remove the lower front panel by removing the 3 screws in the very bottom of it. You will see a white twist cap behind it. Untwist the cap and pull out. The cap is the filter for the drain pump.

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There is a service bulletin for the DSI board. See link below.

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Yes, these thermostats can be calibrated. See the service manual link below. Then go to page #19 for calibration instructions. Matt Ace technician

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Did you have 240 volts across L1 and L2 at the terminal block ? Do you have 115 volts from L1 at terminal block to the center neutral. Do you have 115 volts from L2 at terminal block to the center neutral. If you have proper power at the terminal block coming from the cord to the block you need to go to page #4 in the technician diagnostic guide, then follow the diagnostic steps. Matt Ace technician

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Have you run the unit through diagnostics ? Are you getting any error code displays? See complete diagnostics on page #26 through #29 in the service manual link below.

Please see attached video on evaporator replacement

Please see attached evaporator replacement video.

Hello, I have attached the service manual for this model along with a link to multiple repair videos on a very similar model for you

Hello, your unit was actually manafactured by Whirlpool/Kitchen aid and is the same model as the Kitchen aid KBFS25EVBL. I have attached 2 tech sheets and a complete repair manual/job aid for you to view.Check to see if the evaporator fan is running. If not then that may be your issue, if it is running check to see if there is excessive frost on the freezer evaporator. If so then you have a defrost issue and will need to ohm out the bi metal with your meter to see if it has continuity. The tech sheet attached will actually allow you to go into a diagnostic mode that will most likely tell you what your issue is. Just follow the steps to place unit in diagnostic mode and follow each step.