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Hello, (shv7er53uc) is not a correct model #. Please reply with correct model # and also brand of dishwasher so we can help

Hello, the model number you provided wasn’t correct . I believe you have a model number of wr5322fdam04. ( s in the 3rd digit in place of 5 ). I did find the tech sheet with wiring diagram and also the complete job aid and have attached them for you.

Hello, I have attached the wiring diagram and parts manual breakdown for you.

You most likely have a bad gas valve coil. We have replaced quite a few coils for the reason you are stating. I have attached the service manual for you

If your Bosch dishwasher is suddenly displaying an E17 error code, it is most likely related to a problem with the water level in the machine being too high.When water enters the sump it passes through a float chamber, if the level in the machine causes this float to raise up it indicates excess water and will operate the flood function and start running the pump. This can occur if the pipe from the float chamber is restricted from grease build up. If the dishwasher is overflowing with water or showing this error Inspect the tube for obstructions as it may cause the dishwasher to overfill with water. Remove any gunk and run a test wash.
If the problem still persists, check the float and switch is operating correctly and replace the float switch if required. We could not find any further information for your exact model . I have attached a service manual and also a video on float switch replacement.

Hi. By checking the amp draw you can narrow things down. What was the amp draw of the unit when you checked it? If you get about 1 amp or lower your issue is on the low voltage side. This would be your door switches and control board. If you are getting about 3-4 amps or higher your issue is on the high side. This would include your magnatron, diode, transformer, and capacitor. 95% of the time if you are getting 3 amps or higher and the unit will not heat the issue is the magnatron. Always replace the diode with the magnatron. When I find bad capacitors they always trip the in line fuse. You could have a faulty transformer but they are not common. They usually put off a burning smell when faulty. Both a faulty magnatron and transformer can give a louder than usuall humming noise when running the unit as well.

Hello
Is the evaporator over frosted or is the refrigerator freezing food items. If the refrigerator is getting to cold start by replacing the fresh food thermister part # WR55X10025 also check the motorized air damper part # WR60X10239, make sure its not stuck open. If your evaporator is frosting up then you have a defrost issue. You will need to check the defrost heater for continuity and if that has continuity and you replaced the defrost therm. the board would be your next step. Matt Ace technician

Hello
See the service manual link on on the PFCS1 SERIES refrigerator. There are several areas in the service manual to help you get the evaporator fan motor replaced. I would start on page #37 / # 38. We currently do not have a video on this model.

Hello, I have attached the complete service manual on this LG refrigerator for you. All information available can be found in this attachment.

I don’t know how you got it to even fit in a 4 prong outlet , but whatever , you need to get a 4 prong cord ( that is the new National Electrical Code for dryers ) and install it on the dryer . Inside the cover where the wires attach to the dryer should have a diagram how the wires go , but if not the red and black wires go to the outside terminals ( doesn’t matter if red is left or red is right , or black is left or black is right . The white wire goes to the middle terminal and also on this middle terminal if there is a jumper to the frame of the dryer – remove this jumper . And finally , the ground wire ( green ) goes to the frame of the dryer .

Hello
See the link below for the complete technician diagnostic and troubleshooting manual. Matt Ace technician

As long as you connect the ground wire from the internal harness to the middle terminal on the terminal block, you do not need a jumper wire–that ground wire is the jumper wire for your dryer. You only need a jump wire when the machine doesn’t have a ground wire built into it.

Hello
See schematic on page #69 -#70 . Start on page #58 in manual link below power error. The door sensor is powered by the main PBA . You may have a faulty Sub PBA see page #64.

It’s very difficult to guess where the water is leaking from without actually inspecting. You’ll need to remove the 2 screws near the bottom of the front panel. The screws are just below the crease toward the bottom of the front panel. Remove these screws and the front panel will pull forward at the bottom and hinge up so you can remove the entire front panel. Once the panel is removed, just inspect and see if you can locate a leak. The most likely leak locations could be the bottom of the tub where the transmission goes up through the center (that would require a new main bearing and seal if it’s leaking form here), or possibly a drain hose or the drain pump itself mounted in the front right corner to the bottom of the floor. But you’ll need to inspect to see for certain where it’s leaking from.

You either have a bad door interlock switch or you have a relay on the board that is bad bad. If you close the door right away and hear the buzzing and it heats at all you have a stuck relay on the board. Make sure it is actually heating though when you close the door.

If everything works except the heat, the magnetron is going to be the culprit. The magnetron is the part that produces the heat. The magnetron is part of the high voltage system. Even unplugged a microwave can hold lethal voltage. Check the use and care guide some of these units had a five year warranty on the magnetron.

This is a common problem on this model. You have a bad lid switch. The part number is 3949247v and I have attached a video on the replacement for you.

The issue is actually fairly common. The relay for the high voltage circuit on the main control board is bad. The relay contacts are stuck together causing this issue. You need to replace the board on the unit to repair this issue. Here is a link to the board you need, I just replaced this exact one last week for that issue at a customers house.

If killing the power doesn’t help you’ll have to replace the electronic control board behind the touch panel. There is a relay on this board that turns on the turntable , but it is not available separately , only the entire board .