All Answers

The washer won’t spin if it does not drain, so you have a drain pump issue. Pump is either blocked up or bad, so you will need to investigate and see which it is.

that is a major repair , if it sounds like a jet engine in the spin cycle that is the rear bearing ,its a functional part and your warranty should cover it , because it will affect the spin speed ,if left unattended for a while will cause leaking eventually along with black fibers ,strain on the motor , belt could start shredding ,its definitely not just a noise issue

It sounds like the transmission is bad unfortunatly.
If she has a warranty on it then it would be wise to call them but if not Im afraid the cost would be expensive and If it were me I would replace the unit at this point.
I wish I had better news for you.

Take the panel out from under the door. Behind here you will see the pump and built into the pump you will see what looks like the gas cap from a car. Unscrew this gas cap and pull the drain filter out. Clear any debris from the filter and then try the unit again. This should clear the problem.

Hello
There are a number of possible causes for these units to trip a circuit breaker. i.e. shorted heaters,control board, loose electrical cord or wires. Are you turning on the same elements each time ? Try the other side of the burner elements and see if you are getting 39 amps. The 40amp breaker should be more than enough to handle this range. Do you have any stored error codes ? Matt Ace technician

Hello
See technician sheet and wiring diagram link below. Matt Ace technician

That buzzing sound is your drain pump trying to run so you know it’s getting power. Either something is jammed inside the pump and it’s sometimes blocking the impeller from running, or the drain pump itself is just stalling out sometimes because it has a dead spot in the motor. Either way, you’ll want to remove that drain pump and drain catch below the tub after you remove the lower front panel just like when you manually unlocked the door. If you find nothing floating around inside the pump/drain catch that is blocking the pump, you’ll need to replace the pump assembly.

This unfortunately means that the rinse cycle button is stuck or shorted. To correct the issue you will need to replace the touch pad unfortunately. Here is a link to the part you will need to order and replace to correct the issue.

press these buttons in this order

normal wash – then – air dry
normal wash – then – air dry
normal wash – then – air dry

this should reset the control and if it does not then you will have to replace the control board , thanks

Hello,

Press “Normal” “Heated Dry” “Normal” “Heated Dry” That will reset the control. You will need to check the heater circuit if the flashing comes back. Once you get all the led’s to come on you have entered the reset correctly.

Whirlpool makes their control lock very confusing. Often times, people will look on the control panel and the control lock light will go on and they can not figure out how to unlock the control panel. They will try pressing and holding the cancel button and unplugging the washer or dryer to reset it. None of these options work. All you need to do is press and hold the end of cycle button for 3 seconds and the control panel will unlock. If the lock doesn’t de-activate, then you just need a new interface control board because it has just shorted for one reason or another.

Press and hold the heated dry button and it should unlock. If it still doesn’t remove the control lock light, then you’ll need to order and replace the control board inside the door of the dishwasher in order to correct the issue.

it only has one and you will open the door, remove all the screws from around the inside edge, raise the inside panel, remove the plastic cover from over the control board and its mounted on it , thanks.

If holding the “air dry” button down for ten seconds doesn’t work and neither does turning the breaker off, then the control behind the panel has a software issue and needs to be replaced.

If pressing and holding the air dry button won't reset the lock, try to flip the circuit breaker off to the dishwasher for 5 minutes and try again. If it still doesn’t work, replace the control board because it has just failed for some reason im sorry to say.

OK so that’s a problem. It should have no resistance at all. So this is really a major issue and means that your bearing has went out. The entire rear outer tub as well as the inner basket would need to be replaced because the inner basket has the shaft attached to it that goes through the bearing and the shaft gets damaged when the bearing goes out. It’s a pretty costly repair so most times people will replace the washer rather than repair it, but that’s completely up to you.

Hi. I have attached the service manual for you. Take a look on page 25 for diagnostics. Run the diagnostics to see if you have any error codes. Will the unit do the same thing if you have the door open and press start? This would verify if the unit thinks the door is closed or not.

Hi. There are several things that can cause the unit to not start. A faulty door switch, belt switch, thermal fuse, broken belt, control board, touch panel etc. I have attached the service manual for your unit. You will need to do some testing to find out what the issue is. Most of the Lg dryers are going to to be very similar if not the same. Once you get into the other brands they can be very different. Samsungs would be the most similar to the LG. What happens when you press start? Does the un it act like the door is open and beep at you or does it act normal. Try pressing start with the door open and closed. If it responds differently you can assume your door switch is ok. Normally the unit will beep at you or flash when you try to start the unit with the door open. The service manual has trouble shooting as well as how to disassemble the unit.

Hello
See the complete service manual link below. The LE err is a locked motor error. Here are some possible issues. Matt Ace technician

The connector (3-pin, male, white) in the MOTOR HARNESS is not connected to the connector (3-pin, female, white) of STATOR ASSEMBLY.
• The electric contact between the connectors (3-pin, male, white) in the MOTOR HARNESS and 4-pin, female, white connector in the MAIN PWB ASSEMBLY is bad or unstable.
• The MOTOR HARNESS between the STATOR ASSEMBLY and MAIN PWB ASSEMBLY is cut (open circuited).
• The hall sensor is out of order/defective.

Below is a list of five common problems that may be causing this problem.
Most people need a hands on tech to diagnose and repair this sort of defect.

Faulty Door Switch
Many models of refrigerators that have an ice and water dispenser in the door utilize the door switch as a safety shut-off. When the door open the refrigerator is wired to prevent the dispenser from providing ice or water. The result is if the switch is faulty, the dispenser may think that the door is open and therefore will not allow it to dispense ice or water.

Faulty Dispenser Switch
There is a small micro-switch that is actuated when the water dispenser lever is pushed. If this switch is faulty, it will not send power to the water valve and you will not receive water.

Frozen Reservoir or Supply Lines
In order for your water to be chilled when it comes out of the dispenser, there must be some water that is exposed to the cool environment of the fresh food compartment. This is usually a small tank (reservoir) or length of coiled plastic tubing that is located behind the the wall of the fresh food compartment. If for some reason the reservoir or tubing becomes exposed to freezing temperatures, it is possible for it to freeze up. This prevents water from traveling to the dispenser.

If you have noticed that you vegetables or other crisper items are being frozen, this could indicate that the lower section of the fresh food compartment is getting too cold. This could be an outward indicator of a frozen reservoir.

The supply line that runs through freezer door can also freeze. If the insulation around the line moves or if the line shifts to an exposed position, it is possible for it to freeze in the door too. If you are receiving water from the valve, yet not receiving water, this type of blockage is the most likely the cause of your problem.

Faulty Water Valve
Most water inlet valves used on refrigerators with an ice maker and water in the door utilize two solenoids. Each of these solenoids controls a separate valve assembly that independently controls the ice maker fill and water in the door dispensing. What this means is that is is possible for a single water valve to allow the ice maker to receive water but still prevent the dispenser from receiving it (or vice versa).

How to Diagnose?
The easiest way to be sure that the dispenser side of the valve is operating properly, is to disconnect the fill line to the dispenser. Place a dry towel under the valve to collect any water. Next, verify that the freezer door is shut. Finally, depress the water dispenser lever and see if a burst of water comes from the valve. If water is present, the valve is operating properly and you have a different problem. However, if water is not present, you should proceed to the next step.

The next step is to measure the voltage across the valve terminals. Depress the water dispenser lever again and see if your meter reads 110v. If it does, this confirms that the valve is receiving power, it is simply faulty and must be replaced. However, if it does not receive the voltage, there is another issue and the valve is likely okay.