All Answers

This is a common problem on this model. You have a bad lid switch. The part number is 3949247v and I have attached a video on the replacement for you.

The issue is actually fairly common. The relay for the high voltage circuit on the main control board is bad. The relay contacts are stuck together causing this issue. You need to replace the board on the unit to repair this issue. Here is a link to the board you need, I just replaced this exact one last week for that issue at a customers house.

If killing the power doesn’t help you’ll have to replace the electronic control board behind the touch panel. There is a relay on this board that turns on the turntable , but it is not available separately , only the entire board .

So the most common failure for this model is a bad bearing on a drain pump. If you tip the washer backwards and remove the belt below the washer, spin all 3 pulleys both directions. Which pulley doesn’t spin smoothly when you turn it by hand? Be sure to try and spin all the pulleys both directions.

The washer won’t spin if it does not drain, so you have a drain pump issue. Pump is either blocked up or bad, so you will need to investigate and see which it is.

that is a major repair , if it sounds like a jet engine in the spin cycle that is the rear bearing ,its a functional part and your warranty should cover it , because it will affect the spin speed ,if left unattended for a while will cause leaking eventually along with black fibers ,strain on the motor , belt could start shredding ,its definitely not just a noise issue

It sounds like the transmission is bad unfortunatly.
If she has a warranty on it then it would be wise to call them but if not Im afraid the cost would be expensive and If it were me I would replace the unit at this point.
I wish I had better news for you.

Take the panel out from under the door. Behind here you will see the pump and built into the pump you will see what looks like the gas cap from a car. Unscrew this gas cap and pull the drain filter out. Clear any debris from the filter and then try the unit again. This should clear the problem.

Hello
There are a number of possible causes for these units to trip a circuit breaker. i.e. shorted heaters,control board, loose electrical cord or wires. Are you turning on the same elements each time ? Try the other side of the burner elements and see if you are getting 39 amps. The 40amp breaker should be more than enough to handle this range. Do you have any stored error codes ? Matt Ace technician

Hello
See technician sheet and wiring diagram link below. Matt Ace technician

That buzzing sound is your drain pump trying to run so you know it’s getting power. Either something is jammed inside the pump and it’s sometimes blocking the impeller from running, or the drain pump itself is just stalling out sometimes because it has a dead spot in the motor. Either way, you’ll want to remove that drain pump and drain catch below the tub after you remove the lower front panel just like when you manually unlocked the door. If you find nothing floating around inside the pump/drain catch that is blocking the pump, you’ll need to replace the pump assembly.

This unfortunately means that the rinse cycle button is stuck or shorted. To correct the issue you will need to replace the touch pad unfortunately. Here is a link to the part you will need to order and replace to correct the issue.

press these buttons in this order

normal wash – then – air dry
normal wash – then – air dry
normal wash – then – air dry

this should reset the control and if it does not then you will have to replace the control board , thanks

Hello,

Press “Normal” “Heated Dry” “Normal” “Heated Dry” That will reset the control. You will need to check the heater circuit if the flashing comes back. Once you get all the led’s to come on you have entered the reset correctly.

Whirlpool makes their control lock very confusing. Often times, people will look on the control panel and the control lock light will go on and they can not figure out how to unlock the control panel. They will try pressing and holding the cancel button and unplugging the washer or dryer to reset it. None of these options work. All you need to do is press and hold the end of cycle button for 3 seconds and the control panel will unlock. If the lock doesn’t de-activate, then you just need a new interface control board because it has just shorted for one reason or another.

Press and hold the heated dry button and it should unlock. If it still doesn’t remove the control lock light, then you’ll need to order and replace the control board inside the door of the dishwasher in order to correct the issue.

it only has one and you will open the door, remove all the screws from around the inside edge, raise the inside panel, remove the plastic cover from over the control board and its mounted on it , thanks.

If holding the “air dry” button down for ten seconds doesn’t work and neither does turning the breaker off, then the control behind the panel has a software issue and needs to be replaced.

If pressing and holding the air dry button won't reset the lock, try to flip the circuit breaker off to the dishwasher for 5 minutes and try again. If it still doesn’t work, replace the control board because it has just failed for some reason im sorry to say.

OK so that’s a problem. It should have no resistance at all. So this is really a major issue and means that your bearing has went out. The entire rear outer tub as well as the inner basket would need to be replaced because the inner basket has the shaft attached to it that goes through the bearing and the shaft gets damaged when the bearing goes out. It’s a pretty costly repair so most times people will replace the washer rather than repair it, but that’s completely up to you.