All Answers

Below is a list of five common problems that may be causing this problem.
Most people need a hands on tech to diagnose and repair this sort of defect.

Faulty Door Switch
Many models of refrigerators that have an ice and water dispenser in the door utilize the door switch as a safety shut-off. When the door open the refrigerator is wired to prevent the dispenser from providing ice or water. The result is if the switch is faulty, the dispenser may think that the door is open and therefore will not allow it to dispense ice or water.

Faulty Dispenser Switch
There is a small micro-switch that is actuated when the water dispenser lever is pushed. If this switch is faulty, it will not send power to the water valve and you will not receive water.

Frozen Reservoir or Supply Lines
In order for your water to be chilled when it comes out of the dispenser, there must be some water that is exposed to the cool environment of the fresh food compartment. This is usually a small tank (reservoir) or length of coiled plastic tubing that is located behind the the wall of the fresh food compartment. If for some reason the reservoir or tubing becomes exposed to freezing temperatures, it is possible for it to freeze up. This prevents water from traveling to the dispenser.

If you have noticed that you vegetables or other crisper items are being frozen, this could indicate that the lower section of the fresh food compartment is getting too cold. This could be an outward indicator of a frozen reservoir.

The supply line that runs through freezer door can also freeze. If the insulation around the line moves or if the line shifts to an exposed position, it is possible for it to freeze in the door too. If you are receiving water from the valve, yet not receiving water, this type of blockage is the most likely the cause of your problem.

Faulty Water Valve
Most water inlet valves used on refrigerators with an ice maker and water in the door utilize two solenoids. Each of these solenoids controls a separate valve assembly that independently controls the ice maker fill and water in the door dispensing. What this means is that is is possible for a single water valve to allow the ice maker to receive water but still prevent the dispenser from receiving it (or vice versa).

How to Diagnose?
The easiest way to be sure that the dispenser side of the valve is operating properly, is to disconnect the fill line to the dispenser. Place a dry towel under the valve to collect any water. Next, verify that the freezer door is shut. Finally, depress the water dispenser lever and see if a burst of water comes from the valve. If water is present, the valve is operating properly and you have a different problem. However, if water is not present, you should proceed to the next step.

The next step is to measure the voltage across the valve terminals. Depress the water dispenser lever again and see if your meter reads 110v. If it does, this confirms that the valve is receiving power, it is simply faulty and must be replaced. However, if it does not receive the voltage, there is another issue and the valve is likely okay.

Generally the fill tube will freeze due to air getting into the water system or having poor water pressure from your house. Make sure you have good water pressure to the house and that the filter isn’t expired yet. If the water pressure reduces, the water will go through the fill tube too slow and freeze solid over time. Other than that, when you replace the filter–make sure to flush out a few gallons of water to expel al the air in the system so that you don’t get dripping through the fill tube which can freeze it up.

This is a common problem and it means that your flap isn’t sealing all the way and not opening all the way so the ice get jammed from frost build up and ice build up. There is a kit that they designed to fix the issue.

It sounds to me like you have a bad water valve.if you select water ,can you hear the water valve in the rear hum ?
You could have a frozen water line highly unlikely.
More reasonable a bad water valve ,this is a dual water valve, just because Ice maker has water does not mean water valve is good.

If you hold the reset button for 15 seconds and the icemaker doesn’t start to cycle, there is nothing that can cause that problem except a bad icemaker or if the temperature inside the freezer is above 10 degrees. Get a thermometer and leave it in the freezer for 2 or 3 hours and if it’s not below 10 degrees, turn the freezer colder. If the temperature is below 10 degrees then you have a bad icemaker. These icemakers tend to fail all the time on Samsung for some reason but either way, you’ll need to order and replace the icemaker itself to fix the problem. As for future reference, if there was a problem with the filter–it would stop both the water dispenser and the icemaker.

Hi. Attached is the tech sheet for this unit. You can run a test in diagnostics to check your fan motor. If your not getting power to the fan motor you could have faulty wiring or a faulty contol board.

Electrolux does NOT make a bypass filter plug unfortunately, and if you remove the filter it won’t dispense at all. That being said, you can always just press the filter reset button every 2 months and reset the timer and it should continue to work unless the filter is clogged, in which case it will give you very poor water pressure.

Hi. One thing I found on this was revision to the refrigerant charge. The amount listed on the model tag may be incorrect. The correct refrigerant charge for the VCBB363 is 4.6 oz. I have attached the service manual for you. Start at page 14. There are some different alarms and things talked about here that will cause different lights to blink.

Hi. I can not find any information on this unit other than the owners manual, which I have attached for you. For your defrost system you will have the heater, a bi metal or sensor and then the timer or control. Test you heater and bimetal/ sensor. If they test good then you have a faulty timer/control.

Hello
There are a number of possibilities.In diagnostic mode, indicators all on and 88 in display, that is normal. I would start by running the unit through the diagnostic test on page #4 in the technician manual link below. This will give you any stored error codes and guide you to the next step for the proper diagnosis.

The water enters the dispenser through a water line that goes up the back of the freezer. You’ll need to pull the refrigerator forward and remove the lower back access panel. There is a plastic water valve with 2 solenoids going to it that the water line from the icemaker connects to. You can remove this water line and blow through it to make sure it’s clear. If it is, then you need to replace the duel inlet water valve.

Hello
Wiring diagrams start on page #123 in the manual link below. Matt Ace technician

Hello
Error #16
Fill tub using service mode test 7 and check drain pump operation using service mode test 12.
• Check drain hose for blockages.
* make sure drain hose does not have check valve.
• If pump does not operate, check that the resistance of the pump matches resistance table and verify
120VAC while pump is operating at J512 between the purple and white wires.
• Check pressure tube for pinches where it goes through top cover grommet.
• Use pressure sensor test 10 to ensure correct pressure sensor operation.
• Check pressure tube for trapped water.
• Ensure pressure chamber port is free from obstruction using drill bit size 1/16″ by hand so as not to drill through the inner wall.

Error #18
Fill tub using service mode test 7 and check drain pump operation using service mode test 12.
• Check drain hose for blockages
• If pump does not operate, check that the resistance of the pump matches resistance table and verify
120VAC while pump is operating at J512 between the purple and white wires.
• Check pressure tube for pinches where it goes through top cover grommet.
• Use pressure sensor test 10 to ensure correct pressure sensor operation.
• Check pressure tube for trapped water.
• Ensure pressure chamber port is free from obstruction using drill bit size 1/16″ by hand so as not to drill
through the inner wall
* Make sure you have the updated software see links below for newest version

OK you need a new speed control board to fix the issue. That was a common problem on that unit.

It could be the timer but almost 95% of the time you have this problem it is because the dryer vent is clogged. I know you said you cleaned it but try running a load with the vent disconnected from the back. If it drys then the problem is the went. If the vent is clogged the dryer wont push the hot humid air out causing the dryer to over heat.

Your right about the fabric softner.

Take the screen out and set water in the filter if the filter holds water .Clean the filter and do a load without the vent on the back

.Also check the venting.

Hello
Two flashes every 4- seconds indicates control fault. Cycle power and retry. If fault remains, replace DSI.Matt Ace technician

Either the belt is broken on the unit or the thermal fuse that is mounted to the blower housing is burned out. You should remove the top to find out if the belt is broken on the drum. You need to remove the screws along the back edge of the top then it will slide straight back and lift off. You will see the drum, look in the middle of the drum for the belt it should be there and attached tight. If that is attached but loose it has come off the idler pulley and that will likely need to be replaced. If the belt is tight on the drum then you’ll have to disassemble the unit to check the blower thermal fuse out. There is a thermal fuse on the backside of the blower housing in the unit that will often burn out causing it not to run. Either way you will have to take the unit apart to either put a belt on it or check that thermal fuse out.

Is the dryer overheating can you check what temps it reaches on the outlet pipe of the unit with a thermometer. If the heater relay is stuck closed that will cause it to overheat and you will get that code. It often is a board issue regarding the heater relay when that happens and you have tried a new thermister and thermostat. Check the outlet temps if they are climbing over 160 you have a heater relay stuck closed on the main relay board.

You will need to check voltage going to dryer, it should be 240 volts. If voltage is good you will need to access the element by removing the entire front panel. This model can be complicated to get in to.