All Answers

That is likely a defrost issue you need to remove the rear panel in the freezer section. If the evaporator is built up with excessive frost you need to defrost the frost build up with a hairdryer or steamer. Then you need to check the heater for continuity and the defrost thermostat for continuity as well, that is clipped to the evaporator. It has to be cold to test it and it should read continuity with an ohm meter as well when cold. If all that tests good you likely have a bad defrost control. The bad news is the defrost board is no longer available so hopefully it is just a bad heater or defrost thermostat.

Hello
Go to test #192 and #193 for ice maker test and ice maker relay test in the service manual link below. If the tests pass then check your water supply from you saddle and inlet valve. You may have a water inlet issue. See video links. Matt Ace technician

Anytime a microwave runs but does not heat means that the magnetron ( Its purpose is to generate microwave energy. The high-voltage components accomplish this by stepping up AC line voltage to high voltage, which is then changed to an even higher DC voltage. This DC power is then converted to the RF energy that cooks the food.)
has failed and will have to be replaced.

The most likely issue is the Microwave appliance manager , since the fan relay is on the microwave appliance manager control board .

F 21 indicates a drain problem. The most common problem with this is the drain pump is stopped up.

It sounds like the problem is your control board being having failed and needing to be replaced.

Hi, that is the control lock. Press and hold the heated dry button for three to five seconds, until the light goes off.

It sounds like you have a bad selector switch. I would start by replacing that.

That display means that the keypad is shorted and will probably need to be replaced. You may need to replace the control panel.

Hello
See the parts breakdown link below. If you hear the motor humming , I would take apart and check the lift motor and gear. We have seen the gear strip out over time. The part number is WB26X21615. We do not have a service manual on this model. Matt Ace technician

Hi. It does sound like you were low on refrigerant. You said you had 25 PSI on the low side and then 5 after you charged it. Did you mean it was in a 25 in vacuum on the low side before you charged it? (-25 psi) That would be a side on a leak in the system. The initial amp draw you had would also indicate a leak. Your pressures and amp draw after you charged it seem normal, however I would always charge the system by weight, with a scale for how ever many ounces it calls for. It will leak back down. The time frame will determine on how large the leak is. To determine where the leak is at you would need to install a filter dye drier and recharge the system. Then you would need to wait until it leaks back down and check for the dye with a black light.

HI. DId the cust replace the supply valve or the water inlet valve of the refrigerator? Make sure the water filter is seated properly. Any air leaks in the system can cause the dispenser to drip. Make sure there are no holes or loose connections in the water line system. Check for a connection under the door hinge cover for the water line. Make sure this connection is good. I have seen these cause the water dispenser to drip. Alos, make sure the water is dripping from the water line at the dispenser and not from the ice chute door. Some ice could get into the chute or the chute could not be sealing properly causing a water leak. Also slow water pressure to the unit could cause a drip as well.

Hello
Your problem sounds as if the motor is kicking off on the overload. if the motor overheats during the cycle it will trip the overload and after a few minutes it will cool down. easiest way to see if this is your problem is to check for 120 at the harness when the machine does shut off. if getting 120 to motor and not coming on then motor is issue or obstruction in washer causing motor to overheat is also possible. See links below . Matt Ace technician

Hello
This unit has many issues with the FF fan motor icing up causing the motor not to run. If you call your PDA the new evaporator fan will come with a thermistor all in one harness to eliminate this issue. Matt Ace technician

Hi. I have attached the service manual for you. What’s happening is strange. According the the schematic the lights are controlled by the relay board that you already installed. It sounds like you have a voltage issue or a short somewhere. I have not heard of or seen this issues before. Check your 2 inline fuses. Check for any damaged wiring. Make sure the door switches are functioning properly.

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Go to page #2 in the service manual link below. Run the dryer through the diagnostic mode to pinpoint the exact error and next step to correct the issue. Matt Ace technician

The glow is caused by a “glow-bar” igniter used to ignite the gas in your oven. It glows as it is heating up, but unless it reaches the correct temperature, the gas valve will not open and gas will not ignite-and your oven will not heat up. If your igniter is not heating up properly, you may need to replace it.

Only if it is a self-defrosting refrigerator and the temperature in your garage drops below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Then, it is possible that the oil could thicken and cause premature compression failure.

It is very possible that you are using more detergent than is necessary for the load size you are washing. Double check the detergent instructions to ensure you are using the correct amount.