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Hello, I have attached training videos and wiring information for you.

Hello
On this model we have had many main control boards cause this slowing down and speeds back up issue, The board part number is #WR55X10560 . See the diagnostic guide on page #22 in the service manual link below on control board diagnostics. In most cases we do not see the evaporator fan causing this issue. Matt Ace technician

to figure out whats wrong you would need to check the voltage going to the light socket. If you’re getting power then you have to replace the light socket. If you’re not getting power check for broken wires between the light socket and the circuit board. If thats fine you have a bad board.

Ok so if you are getting the required 120 volts A/C to the water inlet valve and it is not filling most likely you have a bad water inlet valve and it will need to be replaced .

Hello
The Inverter compressors have three winding’s, not just two like the old compressors . All three winding’s should have the exact same resistance. If the resistances vary from each other by as much as a 1 ohm, the compressor will not run correctly. This is one of the ways of checking an inverter compressor to making sure that all three winding’s have the exact same resistance. This is different from the old school compressors with just two winding’s the start winding has a much higher resistance than the run winding. Go to page #93 in the link attached to go through linear compressor diagnostics for your exact model. If all checks out with compressor replace the PCB. Matt Ace

That is a relay failure, usually requiring the electronic control be replaced.

The issue is with the vent line. It is restricted, either with lint build up or physically pinched, kinked, crushed, etc. Or, the cap on the outside of the home is not opening to allow the air to flow. If you turn the dryer on and go to where it vents out at the outside of your home, is that air flow strong?

The coils on the gas valve are faulty. On the bottom of the dryer front panel, there are two screws,Remove those screws, pull the bottom of the panel out and it will slide down to be set aside once the door switch wires are removed. The gas coils are right at the front on the left side.

Hello
Se the service manual link below. Go to page #26 diagnostics to start. You will need to run the unit through the test mode. This will give you any stored error codes. There are a number of possibilities for your issue:
1) Idler tension spring weak or stretched.
2) Idler pulley stuck or jammed.
3) Weak motor going bad .
4) Something stuck or restricting the tub from turning freely. Could have clothing stuck or other item.

See video links.

Matt Ace technician

Hello
If you have no display or cannot enter into diagnostic mode, you will need to replace the board. See the technician diagnostic link below.Matt Ace technician

Hello
There are a number of possibilities that would cause it to stop mid cycle including a restricted vent. Try running without the vent on. The second thing I would try would be a thermister . See service manual link below for other diagnostics if these two suggestions do not work.

Matt Ace technician

Hello
See manual links below. Matt Ace technician

it sounds like the motor is going out and is going to need to be replaced.

Hello
See service manual link below. Ace technician

Hello
It sounds like you are in the correct direction with the DSi or spark module. I have provided a link to the technician diagnostics manual below to very the diagnoses. Matt Ace technician

Hi. I could not look up that model number or that part number. I have ran into this issue before and it was a bad belt switch. Check your belt switch, it is most likely faulty.

Hello
Most common causes are door seals or door ajar. I also have seen auger motor energized and jammed causing heat and frost build up. Is the unit cooling ? Have you checked defrost heater, or high limit thermostat ? Did you run through diagnostics ? There are no service bulletins on this model so far. Matt Ace technician

Error 207 actually has nothing to do with your control board. It means something is wrong with your door latch getting into the correct position. Try to wiggle the door latch hook, close the door, and flip the breaker off to the oven for 60 seconds. Re-apply power and see if the latch will reset properly. If not, then the latch needs to be replaced

It sounds like your out of balance switch was just triggered because the tub went back and hit the out of balance switch lever hanging from the top panel of the washer behind the tub. You’ll need to open the lid, straighten the tub, then open and close the lid fully once or twice and that should reset the switch. If that doesn’t work, then you may have to unscrew the bottom of the front panel, remove the front panel, then unscrew the bolts going into the upper front right and left corners holding the top panel down. The top panel will then hinge up and backwards. You can then look at the lever system below the top panel to try to reset it and if it’s already reset but won’t work, the switch assembly inside the control panel above the outer of balance lever needs to be replaced.