All Answers

COOL on the display means that the oven thinks the oven is still to warm (usually after a self cleaning cycle). This is either a bad oven sensor or a bad display relay control board. You can’t test the board but you can test the sensor. Open the door and remove the 3-4″ long thin metal rod attached to the back wall. There are 2 screws holding the sensor on that you can remove and then pull the sensor forward until you can disconnect it. With a multimeter, check the resistance of the sensor at room temperature and it should be about 1080 ohms. If it’s not, replace the sensor, otherwise you need to replace your relay board.

OK so unfortunately this means that one of your door switches has failed. There are 3 door switches and usually the bottom one is the one that fails, but you’d need to remove the outer shell of the microwave and test the switches to know for certain which switch is bad.

Hello
I would start by running the unit through the diagnostic mode to see if there are any stored error codes. Have you looked at the evaporator in the freezer for an even frost pattern ? This sounds like it may have a sealed system issue. If your evaporator has an uneven frost pattern it has a low refrigerant charge. Matt Ace technician

Hello
Go to page #36 in the diagnostic & troubleshooting guide below. There are many possibilities for your symptoms, I suggest to start with the test mode . The main PCB test mode is in page #58. Matt Ace technician

Hi. Yes, it sounds like the U.I is faulty. If you followed the test to verify you have voltage to the U.I from the ACU then your U.I is faulty.

Hello
The E91 is a communication Error . See the technician diagnostic sheet link below. Run the unit through diagnostics to verify the stored error code or codes.
Possible causes
1) Wiring, Electronic Control Board.
2) Interface Board defective.
Check connections between Electronic Control Board and Interface Board. If no
wiring problems, replace Electronic Control Board first then Interface Board if EOC does not work. Matt Ace technician

Hello
I would start by running the unit through diagnostics. See link below for the manual.
When A problem like this happens you can check to see if the evaporator cover is visually damaged. Any cracks or breaks can let warm air to leak into the evaporator compartment. These covers can also flex by themselves over time to cause an air leak. They must have a good seal and not be bowed at all or replace the cover with new seal.
So your options are to test the defrost thermistor and make sure it’s within specifications.There are no service bulletins on this model. Matt Ace

Hello
I would look at the float assembly, float switch and float dome. Sometimes they will get gummed up and not work properly. You can try taking it apart and cleaning taking it first, or just replace it. Matt Ace technician

Hello
Try unplugging it for a minimum of 20 minutes, then plug it back in again and see if rebooting the control lets it go back to normal operation. If it happens again in the future, you will most likely need a new main control. See complete service manual link below.

Hello
See manual link below. There is a inverter motor testing procedure on page #40. Then complete diagnostics is on page #35. Matt Ace technician

Hi. You said you tapped the high side of the system. Did you installed a valve and recharged the system at that point? If you did, and the compressor/ fans are all running, you must have a sealed system issue. Sounds like you have a leak in the system and it leaked back down again. Did you install a U.V filter dye drier? With this installed you can find the leak with a black light and glasses. I have attached the service manual for you.

Hi. Yes, the pilot valve is powered by the sub pcb. This is not the dispenser board. This is a small control board. I have attached the service manual for you. Take a look at page 66 for troubleshooting a no water problem. It shows where to test at the sub pcb for power. Take a look a page 34 for pictures of the different control boards.

The switch membrane is going to need to be replaced because part of it has failed.

Unfortuantely on this particular unit, the burner switch isn’t the problem. The switch relays to a range top control board which sends power to the burner. One of the relays is stuck on this board so the range top board needs to be ordered and replaced to resolve the issue I’m sorry to say. The part is about $200 and below is a link to the part for your model.

So the hinge is supposed to come with the door and that’s is 100% normal. The problem is that you didn’t lock the hinge out before removing the door so re-installing the door isn’t possible. You will need to set the oven door face down on a soft towel. Use a block of wood in the palm of your hand to push down on the hinge with a lot of weight to force the hinge open. There is a flip up tab on the hinge you must flip up toward the door to lock the hinge out once you have the hinge forced open all the way. Flip this tab up and the hinge should lock out. Attached below is a picture of the hinge with the tab flipped up so you know what it should look like. Once the hinges are locked out, you can re-install the door at about a 45 degree angle or so. Then open the door all the way and flip the tabs back down.

It sounds like your bake igniter is just going out and needs to be replaced. Igniters generally last about 6-8 years normally and then they either stop working all together, or they just get weak and don’t draw 3.2 amps even though they are glowing. If an igniter doesn’t pull 3.2 amps, the oven gas safety valve will not open up. Now the bake igniter is mounted to the bake burner below the floor inside the oven so you’d need to pull the floor out of the oven to access the igniter for replacement.

Hello
Have you run the unit through the diagnostic mode ? If so do you have any error codes ? If you cannot get the unit into diagnostics you will need to start with the board, all units should go into diagnostic mode. Also you do not need to start a new question if you need a second answer, just scroll down and all information stays in the original question. Matt Ace technician

Hello
See manual link below.

Hello
There are multiple potential causes for the concern. See the service bulletin link below.

1) It is very important to enter the diagnostics program and confirm the control is the proper version. .
2. Remove the RC Evaporator cover to verify the gasket type is the correct version.
3. Defrost the refrigerator section evaporator to ensure it is completely free of Ice and frost before installing
new cover to insure proper operation. When using a heat source to defrost the refrigerator section
evaporator cover, care should be exercised not to overheat the plastic surface of the cover or the
polystyrene foam behind the cover. Doing so can permanently damage these components.
4. To insure proper sealing of the replacement refrigerator section evaporator cover, be sure that the
refrigerant lines that connect the evaporator do not come in contact with the replacement cover.
5. Check the Refrigerator section evaporator thermistor for proper contact with the tubing. Check the
evaporator thermistor for any damage and for proper resistance. After the installation of the RC evaporator
cover, verify the functionality of evaporator thermistor using the service mode (step 03). If the thermistor is
open, the RC evaporator cover should be replaced.
6. Before reassembly, check new evaporator cover make sure seals are not damaged or out of place. See
photo below for proper seal placement.
7. Check Icemaker instructions process to indentify the need to replace the ice maker.
8. For Water leak from filter area / Water Filter Replacement & Water filter housing replacement.
9. For Frost build up in the freezer , follow the process to confirm repair process checks for the right side rail
bracket

An E24 error is a blockage in the drain system.