All Answers

F40 is a communication error between the motor control board and the main interface control board. The big problem is that you don’t know which control board is causing the issue and there is no way to test, so it’s a guessing game. You can definitely take the dryer apart and make sure the wire connections are secure–but if everything checks good, a guess will need to be made and one of the control boards replaced. The most likely case I find is that the front interface board is the one having problems so that is the one I’d replace first.

That buzzing noise you hear means the fan inside the refrigerator compartment isn’t running properly which is why the noise goes away when the door is opened since the fan stops when the door isn’t closed. You will need to remove the entire back vent panel INSIDE the refrigerator. If there is ice/frost build up behind this panel, use a hair dryer and thaw it all out. If you find no build up, replace the fan motor which is part 404C on the diagram I attached below.

When the microwave fails to heat, but starts up and runs with the lights and fans working that is typically only one of two issues. The microwave uses a part called the magnetron tube which generates the microwaves for heating. This device is similar to a light bulb and will just burn out out of the blue. Then the microwave will run and do everything as it should be but it will not heat. This can happen unexpectedly with no signs of failure prior to the cycle that stopped working. the other thing that can cause this issue could be a bad door switch. Mainly the lower door switch on the door interlock circuit can fail causing the unit to run but not heat. Typically though if that fails the turntable motor will not work so just confirm if the turntable motor is working or not when it’s running. If it is the door switch is not likely your issue. the magnetron tube is an expensive part and generally will run between $150 to $200 on average just for the part. Often the cost of the part and labor exceed the replacement on most microwaves. The unit will be fixable it’s just up to you of how much money and time you want invest in the unit as nowadays microwaves are so inexpensive a lot of these are considered throw outs. If you need any other help just post back to me and we can go from there thanks.

That is a bad motor or possibly a thermal fuse issue. Given that it runs about 20 minutes then quits and then if you start it again and it only runs 10 seconds would all indicate a bad motor. If you can not start it back up right away and it just shuts down it is a bad motor the motor is overheating and will need to be changed out.

The belt you need is a part number 341341. Below is a link to this belt.

It sounds like what you have is a blockage in your exhaust vent. This can be rectified by removing the vent and cleaning the debris out.

This heating element is on the back. It is on the lower right hand side. It attaches to the bottom of the heat housing.

Hello
Go to the manual link below to page #26 section 7-2-1 through 7-3-1 . There are three settings for the ice maker fill position.
1) 5 seconds
2) 5.5 seconds
3) 6- seconds .
The amount of water is adjusted by pressing the Fill Key repeatedly see section 7-2-3 in manual. I would run the unit through the test cycle in section 7-2-4 and try decreasing fill time to 5- second fill.

Okay, what you’ll need to do is go to Lowes or Home Depot and purchase a 5/8 to 3/4 adapter .

Hi. You can not replace the evap defrost sensor with a bi metal. The part you need for the sensor is p# W10316760. Make sure the sensor clipped on tight to the evaporator and you place the new sensor on a straight piece of evaporator so that the sensor makes a good connection. I have attached the tech sheet and service manual for you. You can test the defrost system in the diagnostics mode.

Hello

       The linear compressor during start up for the first 30  seconds and will be at half stroke intervals. The every .08 seconds it will ramp up to until it hits maximum stroke in 3 minutes and 15 seconds. The complete compressor diagnostics will be on page #111 in the manual link below. You will also find the complete diagnostics in this manual .I advise you run the unit through the complete diagnostics. Matt Ace technician 

Hi. I have attached the service manual for you. On page 30 is the fault code mode. you can check stored error codes. I do not see U6 listed as an error code. Double check this please. The service manual will have everything you need. Once you find the error code, it will explain it and how to troubleshoot it.

Hello
See the technician diagnostic manual link below. Go to troubleshooting on page #62. It will walk you through the diagnostics step by step. It sounds like a possible defrost issue. Matt Ace technician

Hello
The U6 error code is a spray arm not detected error.
1) This could mean the spay arm is not on the rotor correctly.
2) Insufficient water pressure.

See complete diagnostic manual link below. Matt Ace technician

It sounds like you will need to replace the LED power supply board behind the unit, pull the unit out and it is mounted to the back wall.

Hi. I have attached the service manual for you. IT sounds like the main control board is faulty. You could have one of the components on the unit causing this too. You can disconnect each component from the board one by one to see if the lights come back and the display stops blinking. Which even one you unplug to get things working again is going to be linked to the faulty part. I Have replaced the main control board for no lights on these units before.

It sounds like you shut off the cooling system. The buttons are similar. You have to hold the lock and measured fill buttons at the same time for 3 seconds to turn the cooling system back on

The last two buttons on the right hand side. The cooling system should turn back on. Make sure you hold for 3 seconds

To start, ER rF stands for an error with your refrigerator fan not spinning properly. You’ll need to pull everything out of the refrigerator and remove part 120A on the diagram in the link below. This is the large white plastic vent tower against the back wall of your refrigerator directly in the middle from right to left. The fan 404C is the part you’ll need to access.

Once you remove the panel, if there is ice or frost build up around the fan, use a hair dryer and thaw it out. Other than that if everything looks good, then you just need to order and replace the fan motor to resolve the issue.