All Answers

That is a defrost issue you need to remove the rear panel in the freezer section. If the evaporator is built up with excessive frost you need to defrost the frost build up with a hairdryer or steamer. Then you need to check the heater for continuity and the defrost thermostat for continuity as well, that is clipped to the evaporator. It has to be cold to test it and it should read continuity with an ohm meter as well when cold. If all that tests good you likely have a bad defrost control.

Since your cooktop burners still work, it sounds like your bake igniter is just going out and needs to be replaced. Igniters generally last about 6-8 years normally and then they either stop working all together, or they just get weak and don’t draw 3.2 amps even though they are glowing. Below is a link to a diagram for the unit you are working on.

F1 on this oven means that an internal short was detected in the low voltage heating circuit. This is either a bad oven sensor or a bad display relay control board. Below is a link to some repair videos that may help with this issue.

So this error means that something is going on with the pressure switch on the washer because it thinks the tub is overfilled with water which is why the unit won’t unlock the door. If the unit is less than 1 year old, call warranty and they will come out and repair the unit at no charge. Otherwise, the pressure switch is located under the top panel of the washer against the right side. It has a small rubber hose and several wires going to it. You’ll want to disconnect the rubber hose and blow through it to make sure it’s clear. Also make sure there are no small holes in the hose going to the bottom of the tub in case the tub rubbed a hole in the hose or something like that. If it all checks good, then replace the pressure switch.

Unfortunately this model is known for the pump relay on the main control board going bad. It won’t send out the full 110 volts, or it’ll turn the pump on and it’ll drain but the relay overheats and shuts off. Either way, if the pump was replaced and the drain hose is clear, the only possibility is that you have a problem with your main control board and the entire board would have to be replaced to fix the issue. The cost of a new board is around $300-350 so it may not be worth fixing,

It sounds like it is not pumping the water out. Verify the drain hose is only 4-8 inches down the drain. Then you will need to check the drain motor. There is usually a clean out on it and a coin or piece of clothing is most likely blocking the drain. Let me know what you find.

E01 F01 is a very straight forward error for these Maytag Maxima washers. The error means your CCU (central control unit) has failed and will need to be replaced. The CCU is the main control board for your washer and it’s located under the top panel of the washer in the front right corner. It will need to be replaced to fix the issue and I’ll warn you in advance the part is typically about $250-300 depending on the exact model number located on a sticker just inside the door way.

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Unfortunately this is not an easy issue to fix on these bottom freezer top refrigerators. You will want to unplug the unit for 24 hours to allow all the ice to thaw out. Once the ice is thawed out, the best way to clean the drain line is from the bottom up because going at it from the inside is really difficult. If you pull the refrigerator forward and remove the bottom access panel and locate the rubber hose which comes down directly from the middle or so of the freezer floor toward the back and use something like a turkey baster to shoot hot water up the hose. Once it’s clear and you can blow air through the hose, you’re good to go again. Also, if you have the ability to just unplug the refrigerator for 24 hours that’ll thaw all the ice out and them you can just blow air up and clear the drain out.

The MOST common cause for your model is if some food hits the cold control in the freezer area. I see a call a few times a year that food has turned that control off, and since they share air it kills both sides. Check that control and be sure it’s on 4 etc. Thanks!

Have you tried unplugging your appliance for 5 minutes to do a hard reset yet? If unplugging is not easy to do turning off the breaker for 5 minutes does the same thing.

hi. the only other 2 components to the defrost system are the control board and evaporator sensor. one of these 2 parts must be faulty if ur heater and bi-metal are reading good.i have attached a tech sheet for you.

We are searching for service diagnostic material, however in the mean time if the heater and termination switches are good you may have an issue with the freezer evap fan motor not running or thermistor . IF the fan is running and replacing the thermistor does not correct issue then you may either have a wiring issue or a bad control. To determine a wiring issue you have to check for continuity through each end of the wire with an ohm meter. This is rare, however, so the thermistor or control are most likely the issue if the fan is running .

Communication error between the main control and the motor control. Check all the wire connections from the CCU to the MSU for good connection. If everything looks good, check for broken wires with a multi meter.

Hello
See manual link below. Go to page #14 for model specifications chart. On your model #RFG295AA it says the refrigerant type is R134A. Please check your model tag for refrigerant type. How did you repair the line ? Did you use a lock ring kit fitting ? Matt Ace technician

See links below for your model

See links below for your model

Hello
Have you looked at the selector switch. That could cause your symptom. #WD21X10031 . See manual link below for diagnostics.

Hello
There are no service pointers on this model. I have posted the service manual link in the prior question. Matt Ace technician

Hello
Have you run the unit through diagnostics ? Have you looked at the evaporator for an even frost pattern ? You may have a starved evaporator ( Low refrigerant charge ) or a 3-way valve issue. I would run the unit through diagnostics and run test #1 through #73 in the technician diagnostic sheet link below. Matt Ace technician

Hello
See the technician diagnostic sheet with wiring diagram link below. Matt Ace technician