All Answers

HI. I did not find any video for that diffuser. I have attached the tech sheets for this unit. No service manual for this unit. There are a few different service pointers on this unit. None of them are related to the diffuser. They are for door alignment, no ice, frozen fill tube, handle alignment, and condensation on mullion.

Hi. It sounds like you have a faulty main control board. P# WR55X10942P. If you have proper power to the main control board and your unit is set to have the cooling on then I would replace the main control since nothing is running. You can try to reset it first by unplugging it for 5 mins. Plug it back in and see if anything happens. I have attached a service manual for a similar unit.

Hello
Try disconnecting power to the unit for 5- minutes to rest the board. We have not run into issue before. What was the original complaint on the call ? I have provided a manual link below.

Hello
Go to page 3# in the link below for the diagnostic mode. I would unplug the unit for 5- minutes and reset the main PCB board. Then go to page #3 and run the unit through self diagnostics mode. All of the stored errors will be on the technician sheet link below. Make sure your evaporator has an even frost pattern across the coil when running. This model is famous for sealed system leaks. Matt Ace technician

Hi. Make sure the lid lock strike that engages into the lid lock is not damaged or broken. This is the part on the lid itself that goes into the lock when you close it. If that is good and you already replaced the door lock then you have a faulty main control board. I have attached the tech sheet for your unit. If you go to the error code that you have, it will list everything that could be causing this error.

Hello
The first thing I would do is examine the evaporator assembly, make sure you have an even frost pattern across the coil. Sometimes a sealed system issue or starved evaporator ( low refrigerant charge ) will cause freezing in the fresh food section. One you have eliminated a sealed system issue, here are the other possibilities.
1) Is the damper closing ?
2) Verify thermistors are within proper range ( See ratings below in technician sheet )
3) Check door seals for leakage .
Go to page #42 in link below for complete diagnostics.

Hello
See complete troubleshooting guide on page #97. From your explanation you have three possibilities .
1) Filter not installed properly.
2) Filter head assembly defective not letting water through.

3) Water inlet valve defective. ) Check the voltage of Water Valve operating (AC voltage) => The Relay RY78 and RY73 operating. CN70-”5”(Red) CN73_1-”1”(Purple) CN72-”3”(Gry) CN70_1-”1”(Org) – ICE Water valve waiting (about AC 0V).

3) Main PCB . Checking method of voltage Based on PCB typical Ground J23 JUMMPER 1) Check the voltage of IC73-“4″(same voltage as IC01 “104”, IC72-”3”(same voltage as IC01 “117”) – ICE Water valve waiting (about 0V)

Matt Ace technician

Hello
The other answer has a link that clearly says ** Job Aid page #62 *** , Let me know if you cannot open the link. You do not need to start a new question to get a response , just go to the (submit reply) button to respond unless its a new question. We do not have a tool to check the main board, just diagnostics mode and volt meter. Matt Ace technician

Hello
SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS CYCLEs
1. To invoke the Diagnostics Cycle,
perform the following key presses in less than
6 seconds while in standby:
Heated Dry ➙ Normal ➙ Heated Dry ➙ Normal
Alternative entry method if user interface is not
functional: Unplug thermistor or OWI sensor
2 times while user interface is unplugged (no IDs
or keys present).
* To rapid advance one interval at a time, press
the Start/Resume key.
* Invoking Service Diagnostics clears all status
and last ran information from memory and
restores defaults; It also forces the next cycle to
be a sensor calibration cycle.
Calibration cycles begin with a “sensor check”
to determine whether the dishwasher has an
OWI soil sensor or not. If the control detects an
OWI, it forces two rinses to occur prior to Final
Rinse (to assure clear water), then calibrates the
OWI during the final rinse.
NOTE 2. Turn on all LEDs immediately upon
receiving entry sequence (even if door open) and
throughout this first interval as a display test.
NOTE 3. On numeric time display models,
display the following software information after
the initial display test:
* Interval 18 – Dishwasher control platform
number (“d3” Raptor/Tall Tub, “d2” Cheetah/
Briva, “d1” Rush/Tall Tub, “d0” New Gen).
* Interval 17 – Software generation number
(incremented for each release of software to
production).
4. Thermistor (temperature sensor)
checks:
* Turn Clean LED on if thermistor is in its normal
temperature range of 17°C–71°C (62°F–160°F).
* Turn sanitized LED on if thermistor is above
37°C (100°F).
NOTE 5. OWI (optical soil sensor) checks:
* Check OWI sensor for the presence of clear
water during the 5 sec. pause in interval 13 and
turn on the Clean LED in interval 12 if clear water
detected.
* Check OWI sensor for the presence of air
during the last 5 sec. of Drain interval 3 and turn
on the Clean LED in interval 2 if air detected.
* Check OWI sensor for presence of bulk soil in
the water during pause interval 10; execute max.
allowed APFs and turn on Clean LED in interval 9
if bulk soil detected.
6. Heater relay must lag wash motor
relay by 1.5 sec. at start-up of heated wash
intervals to avoid simultaneous heater and
motor in-rush current.

Hello

If you experience frost, or hard ice, forming on the front area of the Refrigerator compartment.There is a service bulletin link below that may be your issue. To gain access to evaporator motor and therm. , go to page #62 in the Job Aid.
1) The Refrigerator doors do not close correctly, causing excessive warm air to flow through the evaporator.
2) The door gasket, for various reasons, is not sealing properly.
3) The refrigerator section Defrost Thermistor may need to be optimized see page #62 in link below.

Hello
See the complete service manual and optics diagnostics manual, this will give you step by step troubleshooting procedures . See Optics ( Service Bulletin )m Matt Ace technician

Hello
We have seen this happen a few times after the dispenser was replaced. There are a possibilities. If its splashing or overfilling out of the cup, you have an inlet valve that is not monitoring the incoming water pressure , or the water pressure to the washer itself is too high. We have corrected this issue a few different times with am inlet valve . I would start with a inlet valve.

Hi. It sounds like it may not be getting enough water. Let the dishwasher fill up with water and start washing. Take note of how it sounds and open the door fast so you can see the spray arms move. Now add some water to the unit by getting water in a cup from the sink. Poor a few cups of water into the bottom. You have a float switch inside the unit on the front left corner. This floats up and trips a switch so is does not fill with too much water under normal run conditions. Add enough water to get the float switch floating but not too much or you will leak some water out of the door. Now close the door and let it start washing again. See if it sounds like it is washing better now. Open the door and see if you see more water movement and the spray arms rotating better. IF so your issue is low water pressure. coming into the unit. The most likely reason why would be your incoming inlet hose or shut off valve is clogged. I have also attached the tech sheet for your unit. Some dishwashers will only wash one level at a time. So it will only wash with the lower spray arm and then switch to just the top spray arm. This unit does appear to wash with both at the same time, but I’m not positive.

Hi. That is strange that you now have no display after replacing the touchpad. Did you have a display before? Try to unplug the touch pad and then check to see if the display comes back. The display is part of the control board on your unit. Check to see if you have 120V at the control board. If you have proper voltage to the control and it does not have a display the control is faulty. the control is part #WP8507P390-60 . I have attached the wiring schematic for your unit.

Hello
Are you sure the fans are not running ? Its very hard to hear the fans with the doors closed. It would be very uncommon top have both fans not running. If both door switches are closed then go to page #46 in the manual link below for fan diagnostics. Matt Ace technician

Error 3C is a drain error. There may be a floating drain obstruction, or the drain pump may be failing under a load. You will need to allow the machine to run and see if there is proper power to the drain pump during the drain portion of the cycle while it is supposed to be draining (but not draining) . If there is proper power, you have a bad or failing drain pump. If not, then you have a may have a bad drain relay on your main control. These are the steps you have to follow to get the proper diagnosis. I have attached a couple videos for you to view for your issue.

Hello

           To activate ice maker diagnostics. 

Press ٨ and ٧ temperature pads for up to 10 sec. simultaneously.
Press + or – to move forward or backward through tests. If it is not showing all codes 52c -63c , unplug unit for 5- minutes to reset board and try again. The + or – arrows should take you through the complete diagnostics. See in the (Fresh Food Ice Maker Diagnostic Mode results) will only indicate ( FZ) , ( OP) or (SH). If you cannot get into the diagnostics and your are sure you are entering correctly, the only other option is a new board. Defrost heat test is #26 in the System Diagnostic Mode number #2 on the chart. Matt Ace technician

Hello
Are you getting any error codes ? Have you run the unit through diagnostics ?
1) It could be the motor overload cycling off due to lint build up around the motor.
2) Low voltage to the motor.
3) Blower impeller blocked or plugged in blower housing.
4) Actuator on motor.
5) Bad motor drawing high amps.

Matt Ace technician

Hello
See see the service schematic. I would start by making sure your vent is clean and you have proper air flow. If you have a restricted vent the cycle thermostat and high limit thermostat will open and prevent the timer from advancing. Then check the heating circuit and timer. Matt Ace technician

Hi. That’s odd that your hoses are clear and you installed a new drain pump and the unit still will not drain. I would assume the rattling noise is something in the drain pump. Usually, a unit not draining would be one of 2 things. A bad pump, or a clogged hose/ debris stuck in pump. Make sure you are getting 120v to your drain pump. Also, how is your drain set up? Where does the drain hose go into? A standpipe or a sink? Make sure it has an air break and is not sealed tight. Double check that your hose from the drain pump to the tub is clear and the other hose from the pump to where it discharges the water is clear as well. The model number listed is wrong. I assume it is supposed to be FFLE2022MW2?