All Answers

Hi. Did you have to make the shaft of the new switch shorter by snapping it off at the break off point? If so, you may have made the shaft too short so that when it is installed with the knob on it you can not push not knob in to get the switch to rotate. See if the shafts are the same length on the old and new switch. Also, when it is installed see if the knob on the new one sits too close to the console compared to your other switches. Turn one of your other switches on. You should notice you have to push in a little first while in the off position before it will rotate. That is the only thing I can think of the would cause it to turn when not installed and not turn when installed.

Hello
There are many possibilities with this symptom. Are you getting any error codes ? Have you run the unit through diagnostics ? You may have a defrost issue if its only in the fresh food section. You will see the complete diagnostics section below to find and rectify your issue. Matt Ace technician

Test mode page #55 in service manual link below.

If Energy Saver Key + Fridge/Hold 3 sec for Power Cool Key on the front of panel are pressed simultaneously for 8 seconds , it will be changed to the test mode and all displays on the front of panel will be off.• If any key on the front of panel is pressed within 15 seconds after the test mode, it will be operated as below sequence : Manual operation (FF) Manual operation (OF r) -> manual defrost of fresh food compartments(rd) -> manual defrost of fresh and freezer compartments(Fd) -> cancel(Display all off)• If any key on the front of panel is not pressed within 15 seconds after the test mode, the test mode will be canceled and it will be returned to previous mode.

Hello Ed
I just looked at the photo. You absolutely have a starved evaporator, low refrigerant charge. To decide on the repair options. If the unit is under 8- years old and you can repair it for less than 50% of the cost of a new unit. This repair will cost approximately $650 to $850 based on the area you live in. You need a new evaporator assembly.

Hello
The one manual was loaded incorrectly . The other manual link below is correct for the pfs22 series refrigerator.
“No cooling” or “intermittent cooling” on PFS22 and PFS22S French Door Bottom Mount refrigerators can sometimes be attributed to the condenser fan motor running slowly or not running at all. If diagnosis shows the electronic main board not providing a minimum of 7.5 VDC to the condenser fan motor with the wiring connected (circuit under
load), the main board will need to be replaced. In addition, refrigerators produced in January and February 2007
(serial AM and DM), where the main board has caused intermittent condenser fan operation, data shows the overheating due to poor airflow has contributed to sealed system restrictions and failure with
compressors used in refrigerators produced during these two months.

Matt Ace technician

Hello

           Inspect for evidence of a water leak at the Clutch assembly if visible...replace.Also test the Hall Sensor. Matt Ace technician 

Stator
– Check ohms: 5 to 15 ohms. But consistency is more important than the specific
reading. All three windings should have same resistance.
– Failures are usually related to the hall sensor
• Rotors
– Magnets can crack. Inspect.
– Will pick up nails and crap if carelessly set aside.
• Shifter plate (clutch)
– Fairly common fail item.
– Recommended truck stock.
• Hall sensor
– RD6 and BL6 on main PWB
• Oscillator
– Used with the pressure sensor.
– Generates frequency

Hello
We do not have a video on this exact model. See the service manual link below.

Bad bearings will definitely cause this code , however it would be very likely that by the time the bearings go bad that the tub support shocks were damaged and weakened along the way and we recommend replacing them also.

This is an issue that happens due to air leaking into the ice room compartment. I have attached a video of multiple Samsung service bulletins and the correction for this is among them. It is service pointer number 3 in the video.

Hello
See the technician sheet link below. Run the unit through diagnostics . Are you sure its not a (SE) error instead of ( 5E) ? That would be a shorted key key pad . Matt Ace technician

Hello
Have you tried getting the unit into the diagnostic mode ? The Mini-Manual is located on the back side of the control housing. See service manual link below.

Matt Ace technician

Hello
Are you getting any error codes. Have you run the unit through diagnostics for stored error codes ? See page #4 in service manual link below. There is only one service bulletin on this unit see below, its not related to your issue. Matt Ace technician

Hi. I just seen this issue myself for the first time a week or so ago. I diagnosed it as a faulty control as well. The customer did not have the repair done. I tried to see if the relay for the drain pump was stuck closed and It did not show closed. Mine would do the same exact thing where the drain pump runs the entire time but you can still start cycles and run the test mode. I found a couple of others that said the control board fixed the issue. One said they unplugged the drain pump and ran a cycle. Then plugged it back in when it was supposed to drain and their washer was working fine after that. They filled to the correct levels and ran through just fine, so I don’t think there is an issue with the pressure switch or hose, but these are things to check. It Must be a control board issue.

I found a video for for you showing the service mode. The power button will end the test, not the start button.

There is a new dispenser kit for this issue. I have attached the service pointer for you to view. According to the chart provided in the service pointer, model number(s) WTW8800YC* would take new dispenser kit part number W10187307

Hello
See manual link below. Matt Ace technician

Hello
See video link below. the paper instructions come in the kit when you purchase it. Matt Ace technician

Hello
There is only one service bulletin for the drain kit see below. I have also provided a service manual. I would look at a few possibilities..
1) The light in the freezer to make sure it is shutting off.
2) The bottom door rack slide hinges , be sure they not restricted by food or compromised in any way. If they are the door will not close easily and the frost will build up.
3) Run the unit through diagnostics to make sure you do not have any error codes.

Matt Ace technician

Hello
See video on similar model Maytag unit. Also see technician manual . Matt Ace technician

Hello
We see the Washer counterweight springs Part #: 388492 rust out and become detached from the base. You can drill a hole next to the base and reattach the spring. I believe this may be your issue. Look at number #15 on the parts breakdown. Matt Ace technician

Hello
You will need to get into the freezer section and remove the back cover. Inspect the evaporator for an even frost pattern across the complete coil assembly. If you do not have an even frost pattern across the coil, you either have a leak in the system ( Starved for refrigerant ) or you have a weak suction valve in the compressor not pumping. See complete manual links below. Matt Ace technician