All Answers

Hello
Go to page #4 for calibration mode. If it does not go into calibration you will need to go to page #2 for diagniostic mode. See technician manual link below.

Hi. I could not find any information on this model number. I did attach a service manual for a Bosch dishwasher, but it did not have the error codes listed. Not sure how similar to your unit it is. I also attached a service bulletin for the E9 error. It appears the e9 error is for an over temperature error. I did find other information that it could be an error for a no drain as well. Maybe the e9 error changes from model to model. Attached is also our repair videos on Bosch dishwashers as well as a video on the water tap error.

Hi. I also found a service bulletin for the issue I think you are having.

Hi. Yes this is a very common symptom of a faulty inlet valve. I have attached a repair video for this inlet valve. The video is for a front load washer. I could not find one on laundry center like you have. You will most likely need to remove the front and top panels to get to the inlet valve. It still may be tight at that point with the tub in the way. I have attached a lid lock repair video so you can see how to remove the front and top panels on a laundry center, like you have.

Hello
Is this hose for a condensate drain or the ice maker water dispenser ? If it comes from the water tank it can be replaced it is part number WR17X11439 . Matt Ace technician

Hello
See technician diagnostic links below . Along with video link. Matt Ace technician

F11 error code Possible Causes / Procedure
1. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
2. Check wire harness connections to the MCU, the motor, and Central Control Unit (CCU).
3. Check the drive system for any worn or failed components.
4. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
5. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic test or any cycle.
6. Check the MCU by looking for operations of the drive motor.
7. Check the drive motor for powered rotations.
8. Check that the serial harness at the MCU is not mounted upside down. The wires should be to the left
when facing the MCU connectors.

See technical sheet link below

Hi. I have attached a repair video for the hi limit and the parts break down. Reasons why this hi limit will go bad include poor air flow because of clogged venting or a broken blower wheel. Also, the element could be shorted to ground which would cause this part to go bad as well.

Hi. I have attached the service manual for you. It explains the LED lighting on page 60 and how to test the lighting on page 25. It sounds like the LED control board is faulty. It does not sound like the main board is faulty. You could have a shorted wire, but not likely. You can follow the steps on page 25 to find out for sure.

Hi. It sounds like you just have a bad damper. It would not be probable for both parts to be faulty. The board will only send 120V to to the damper motor when it wants it to close or open, so you will only have 120V for a few seconds at at time. You will not have a constant 120V at the damper during normal operation.

Hello
the ice maker diagnostics are obn page #44 in the technician service manual link below. Matt Ace technician

Hi. I have attached the tech sheet for you. Refrigerator temp is good. Make sure your air flow is good. It should be good given that the refrigerator temps are good, but make sure the fan motor is circulating air flow and that the damper is working properly. Check for a defrost issue. This could be sealed system issue. Check your frost pattern on the evaporator.

Hello
Can you check your model number # gsh25ww , It is not in our data base for GE . With a good model number we can give you more help.Here are a few possibilities without seeing the exact model. Is the evaporator and condenser fan motor running ? Is the compressor running ? Do you have an even frost pattern on the evaporator by visual inspection ? Matt Ace technician

Hello
See the technician diagnositc sheet. The Electronic control board is a possibility. We have seen many boards cause the evaporator fan motor not to run. Matt Ace technician

Hello

     Are you getting any error codes. I would start by running though the diagnostice mode to see if you have any stored error codes. See complete disgnostic manual links below. 

“i60” – code: heating
• The error is stored and displayed only in service mode; the washing programme continues without the activation of the heating element • During the heating phases, the rise in temperature is monitored with an update every 3 min.
• Within these 3 minutes, the temperature must rise by at least 1 °C.

Hi. I am not showing that model number either. I found the same model with either a 4 or 6 on the end but not a 5 like the one you provided. It sounds like you have a faulty Adaptive Defrost Control. This sends power to the evaporator fan motor. As long as your fan motor does not seem seized up, I would say it is the A.D.C board. You could test this by checking for voltage at the fan motor. You should have a steady 120V. If the power is ramping up and down then that is why your fan motor is ramping up and down and would be an issue with the A.D.C. The fan motor seems like it would test fine electrically since it runs, but it could have failed mechanically if the bearings are bad. The fan blade would not spin smoothly or freely it and could be making some noise as well.

Hello
See the diagnostics for your model oin the links below. If you installed the evaporator fan motor and therm., and it is doing the same thing its most likely not the motor. We have seen the ADC board causing issue many times. I would run it though the daignostics, and check for a steady 115 volts to the motor. but I think you will find the board will correct the issue. Matt Ace technician

Hello
You are correct with the motor / pump being your issue. There are no service bulletins on this model. See the video and service technician manual link below for your model. The WPW10757217 is the motor / pump you need.
Matt Ace technician

Hello
A few things to check on this issie.
1) How is the dishwasher loaded ? The Thermador Model DW44Z has an Upper Wash cycle that saves energy and water when you have only a small load of dishes. Also, you’ll use less detergent for the Upper Wash cycle. The washing time, however, is not reduced. ( See page 14 in use and care guide link below)

2) This unit has A Triple Filter System and Large Object Trap, Micro Filter & Fine Filter. Make sure they are clean see page #16 in use and care link below.

3) Check Wash Arms . The wash arms should be checked periodically to ensure that the spray orifices are clear and unobstructed. If the wash arms require cleaning they are easy to remove and replace:
A. The lower wash arm simply snaps into place. Pull gently upwards to remove it.
B. The upper wash arm is held in position by a locking
nut. Turn the locking ring approximately 1/8-turn
clockwise to release the arm. See Figure 30.
C. After cleaning, reinstall the wash arms.

4) Is the dispenser opening ? Do you have the correct amount of detergent or rinse agent ?

5) Are you selecting heavy wash with a lage load?

6) Are the Filters not properly fitted into position.

7) Verify there are no clogged nozzles in wash arm(s)

8) Make sure unit is draining properly. Check pump and drain hose for kink or debres stuck.

Hi. I have attached the tech sheet for you. Make sure air flow is good with supply and return vents. Make sure nothing is blocking air flow. Verify proper operation or evaporator fan motor. In the bottom right hand corner of the tech sheet is the diagnostic mode and error codes. See if you are getting any errors. You could have an issue with the FF thermistor. p # 240597203. Or possibly an issue with the main control.