All Answers

Hi. Yes, I found the tech sheet for you.

Hello
See technician sheet link below. In most cases you cannot read continuity through the thermistor. Matt Ace technician

Hello
See links to technician sheet and WRF video series. Matt Ace technician

Hello
The evaporator fan motor runs at 14VDC. See technician link below and got to test #3 evaporator fan motor. Matt Ace technician

Hello
See the service bulletin and technician link below .Have you run the unit through diagnostics ? We have never seen this happen before . Have you visually seen this happen or are you by going by what the customer is saying ? Are you sure the customer did not add bleach without using the bleach dispenser ? Matt Ace technician

Hello
See manuals below along with videos. Matt Ace technician

See link below for videos with light issues .

Hi. I have ran into this problem before as well. The light module in the refrigerator section has the control board on it that controls all of the LED lights. Its the one on the refrigerator ceiling. P # WPW10515058

It does sound like a bad control board. Even if the light switch is bad the display should still light up.

Hello
See the diagnostic link below and video below. Matt Ace technician

Hi. THe ER ff error code is for the evap fan motor has failed. Check the fan motor, wire harness, and control board. Sorry, I could not locate a tech sheet on this one.

Hi. That fan you replaced is specifically for the ice maker. It circulates the air from the freezer to the ice maker box. Did you make sure the new fan motor was working? Has it been 24 hours since you installed the fan motor to allow the unit to reach proper temps? When the cust unplugged it, did they leave it unplugged for at least 15 mins to reset it? Check your temperatures in the ice box and see if it’s cold enough to produce ice. If not check to see if your fan is running. You could have frost or ice blocking the fan blades. Make sure the air ducts are clear also. The ice maker should have a test button to cycle it. Press and hold the button for 10 secs or untill it starts to cycle. The test button could be the ice size button if not other buttons found. The ice maker could have a ice jam as well. Run the diagnostics and check error codes as well. I have attached a service manual on a similar unit for you. I hope it helps.

Hello
See the link below to the Bosch service manual . Matt Ace technician

I have attached a wiring diagram, a service bulletin and a complete job aid on this exact model and you will find all information available on this unit in these 3 attachments. Good luck.

I have attached the tech sheet for this exact model and it has all information available for this unit. Good luck.

Hi. It sounds like you have a bad motor. After it shuts down and you try to start the dryer again will it just hum at you? After you let the unit cool down for awhile and then try to start it will it turn on and run again for awhile? If yes, the motor is the issue. These are common symptoms of a motor going out. To replace the motor you should not need to move the unit. This one will be all taken apart from the front. I have attached a repair video on the motor but it is not a stackable unit like yours. THe motor is p# 134196600 . It looks like it is cheaper to get the motor/ blower wheel housing assy together. p# 5303937189 . I would also highly recommend getting the blower wheel too, as the old one may not come off the motor.

This is a common problem on this model and you will need to replace the control panel assembly. If your dishwasher is a stainless steel model the part number is W10605176. If your dishwasher is white in color the part number is W10605177. The cost of the panel is around $100. Good luck

I have attached the service manual for your model. All information available will be found in this manual with no additional information available. Good luck

Hi. If it will not spark unless you place the screw driver close to it, it must be sparking somewhere else. The igniter could be cracked, or not positioned high enough. You could have a short or faulty igniter wire. The terminal or wiring may be too close to the cabinet somewhere causing it to spart there first instead of at the igniter. That would be the only thing I can imagine after all the parts that have been replaced thus far.