All Answers

Hi. I have attached a tech sheet on a similar unit. Make sure the unit is not siphoning the water out. THis will happen if the drain hose is not elevated high enough, causing the water to drain out as it fills. If this is not the issues, you may have a faulty drain valve if your unit has one. I do not find out for your model. The tech sheet I attached shows the drain valve. Check for error codes and run diagnostics/ test cycle.

Hi. I have attached the tech sheet for you. The thermistor values are on page one of the tech sheet. They should have 5.3k ohms @ 50 deg. 8.8k ohms @ 32 deg. , and 25.9k ohms @ 4 deg. Is the frost build up from a defrost issue I do not believe there is a defrost heater on the refrigerator evaporator. The frost build up could also be from a sealed system issue. I had one that was doing the same thing. I think is was the same model or very similar to this one. It had a ball of ice coming through the fresh food evaporator cover. It did not look like normal frost from a typical defrost issue. I looked at the freezer evaporator at that point and found an uneven frost pattern. It was not getting to proper temps in either section. It ended up being a leak in the sealed system. I did not ever find out where is was leaking at, but I did recharge it once and it lasted 3 months or so before the issue came back. A defrost issue would come back in about 5 days. My best guess would be that the refrigerator evaporator is where the leak is at.

Hi. It does not sound like a defrost issue at all. The unit would not shut down like that and then come back on and get to proper temp again with a defrost issue. Defrost T-stat’s should have continuity (at proper temperature) and if they are bad, no continuity. Its as simple as that. No need to check a specific ohm resistance. Audible check is fine. It sounds like your Thermostat is bad. This will cause your symptom. The unit will stop running, then once temps are really warm or you turn the t-stat dial it will come back on and run until it reaches proper temp. Then it more than likely will fail again and not come back on. A lot of times you can tap or bang on the t-stat or in the area of it and it will cut in and cut out. IF you look under where the t-stat is mounted you will see a very small pile of back spots or dust. This is an indication of a bad t-stat as well. The t-stat for this unit is no longer available. p# WR9X352. IF fans were still running but not the compressor you are going to be looking at dirty condenser, overload and relay, or a faulty compressor.

I have attached the Electrolux/Frigidaire service manual for you . Section 7 on dishwashers has the diagnostic information pertaining to model EIDW6105. Good luck.

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I have provided you with the technician diagnostic sheet along with the complete Job Aid for your model. We have had several units with the exact same symptom. We have found 90% of the time it was the main control board not powering the evaporator motor. See in the guides below the proper test points. Matt Ace technician

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See technician diagnostic sheet link below . Also see video link. Matt Ace technician

Hi. I do not think the cutter grid is suppose to be activated all the time. With it staying on all the time, is most likely causing your smell problem. I have attached the tech sheet on this unit for you. I do not even see the cutter grid on any the their circuit break downs. Your grid could be shorted or you could have a stuck relay on the control board. I would run the diagnostic cycle and check the error codes to see if you get any more information out of it. I have attached video for stand alone ice makers as well.

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I have provided the the diagnostics sheet and wiring diagram. This links below will show all error displays and all diagnostic modes. Matt Ace technician

Hi. There is a bearing kit that is out now along with the bearing tool to complete this repair without having to install the tub assembly. Bearing tool p # W10447783. The bearing kit is p# W10435302. I have attached a video for this repair. Instructions come with the bearing kit as well. If you are going to replace the whole tub the video will still be helpful for you. Instead of releasing the clips to remove the top panel, your unit will have 2 screws in the back to removed and the lid will slide forward then lift up and slide back and up again to remove. I did not find any service manual on this machine. Only tech sheets, and installation guides. Nothing that will assist you in this repair.

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The F29 error is a (DOOR UNLOCK ERROR)

Possible Causes
* Misaligned or broken door latch.
* Electrical connections from CCU (DLS2, DL3)
to door lock are damaged.
* Misaligned, broken, or over tightened door hook.
Procedure
1. Clear error code.
2. Unplug the washer or disconnect power.
3. Manually unlock the door (page 14).
4. Ensure that the latch is secured to the front panel.
5. Check for misaligned, broken, cracked, or loose
door hook.
6. Check the electrical connections between CCU
(DLS2, DL3) and latch (see page 14).
If the latch fails to unlock after checking all of the
above, replace the latch.

See technician diagnostics sheet link below. Matt Ace technician

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If the heater and thermostat are working and tested good, you have a defective control board. See control board diagnostics in the link below. Matt Ace technician

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I would run the ice maker through a harvest cycle . Make sure you have a minim of 1/2 inch of water across the whole tray. If you do not you may have a defective or plugged water saddle or inlet valve. Matt Ace technician

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If you have blinking light at the end of the cycle, this is an error code. Go to page #6 of the tech. sheet below and you will see what the error codes are based on you blinking light . Matt Ace technician

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See the service bulletin link below. I am sure you will find the issue in the attachment. Matt Ace technician

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Did you replaced the filter dryer ? If not , you need to put on a dryer with a high side access . You need to know the high and low side pressures to determine whats happening. You may have a moisture restriction, weak suction valve in thew compressor or a refrigerant leak. See link below for dryer you will need. Matt Ace technician

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See link below for technician diagnostics and wiring diagram. Matt Ace technician

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See service bulletins below. I would also run the unit through diagnostics to see if any error codes are stored. Check the frost pattern on the FF evaporator to verify its even across the complete evaporator. If its not it could be staved for refrigerant and be a start of a sealed system leak. Matt Ace technician