All Answers

Hi. Take a look at page 44 and 45 on the service manual I have attached. The button you pressed on the control board is a defrost test button and will give you the alarm. IF you press it again, the alarm should go off. Make sure the unit is running and not is defrost mode when you press the button again.

Hello
See service sheets along with installation and diagnostics on your model. I also have provided video link to water wall dishwasher videos. Matt Ace technician

HI. I did find a seal for that motor. P# DD62-00053A . I would recommend replacing the seal when you replace the motor. There should be a couple of screws that hold the motor in place. I would imagine it would pull straight out once the screws are removed. It shows the whole assembly as #21 on the diagram I was looking at, but it must not be correct because it shows it as a “cover”. Sorry, I could not find an repair videos on this part.

Hi. Sounds like the board may have been glitched up. See if the unit comes back to normal temps and resumes normal operation. I have attached the tech sheet for you. I would run diagnostics and check your error codes. If no error codes and unit does this again you may have a faulty control board.

Hi. It looks like it is a test button for the defrost system. When you press it once the display all of the display lights should come on. A second press should turn the fans off and turn the defrost heater on. A third press will put the unit back into normal run mode. I have attached a tech sheet for a similar model.

Hello
See video link and technician diagnostic links below along with parts and wiring diagram . Matt Ace technician

Hello see technician data diagnostic link below. Matt Ace technician

Hi. I could not find a tech sheet for this unit. I did look up the T-stat. The part number has changed but it is still available. The part number you need is 5304497345. I have attached a link to the part.

Hi. Does this happen when the basket is empty? This can be caused by off balance loads. Check the shocks. They could be broken causing this. I have seen broken shocks for this issue. Also, check for any error codes. I have attached the tech sheet for you. I have seen washers do this as they begin to age. New shocks may help, but not a guarantee.

Hi. I found the tech sheet on this unit for you. Run the diagnostic cycle and see if you have any stored error codes. Is the unit draining out well? If not it can cause this to happen. Alos, off balance loads can cause this issue. Is the spin speed on the high setting?

Hello
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Hello
There are a few different models with the linear compressor WRF992FIF , WRF993FIF , AND THE WRF995FIF . Theye are completely different from any other refrigerator you have worked on. They are all COUNTER DEPTH FRENCH DOOR REFRIGERATORS. Many of the components are DC voltage including the evaporator & condenser fan motors. They run at 12.7 DC voltage and are variable speed motors that run between 1130 -3450 RPM ( Revolutions per minute ) . They all use the new Wisemotion Linear compressors. This new compressor is oil free and has a flexible discharge line and variable Power and are Not Compatible w/ UV Dye dryer. You cannot Charge System on Low Side. You will need to Use Oil Free Hoses and Gauges, Replace Orion Board with Compressor, Remove Contaminants Before Brazing, Charge System on High Side only. Compressor testing on this unit :If compressr does no t continue to run:
* Note the time duration of ON and OFF Cycles
* Sealed System Leak (No Charge Left) ,
1) Compressor ON for 15-30 seconds
2) OFF for 2-3 minutes (High Side Leak)
3) Or OFF for 10 Minutes (Low Side Leak)

• Sealed System Leak
• High Side Leak (Low Charge)
  1) Compressor Turns ON
  2) Detects Low Charge
  3) Ramps to Low Power/Voltage
  4) Continues to run at Low Power/Voltage
  5) Actual power/Voltage will vary
  depending on amount of charge remaining.

Showroom Mode – Enter/Exit
“Fridge” and “Freezer” simultaneously (3 Seconds)
Enter Diagnostics
Press and Hold “Recommended”
Then, Press and Hold “Drawer” for 5 Seconds
Navigate Diagnostics
Up and Down arrows to move between tests
“Icemaker2” to select test
“Fast Cool” to back out

Exit Diagnostics
Navigate to and select Service Test 00,
Cycle Power, or
Wait 20 minutes

Hello I hope this helps understand the function of this new product that will become very popular in the near future.

Hi. I just had the same issue with one a few days ago and replaced the ice maker as well. I have not heard back from the cust., so I assume it fixed the issue and is working now. They also had poor water pressure and the ice maker was only filling up a few molds. How is your water pressure? Does the ice maker fill completely with water? Poor water pressure to the ice maker can cause ice jams which will cause the ice maker to not cycle. THe ice maker I replaced was a Samsung, part # DA97-07365g . I attached a service manual on a similar Samsung model. Take a look at section 2-1 which gives good info on the ice maker.

Hello
See the parts breakdown and technician sheet. The part number you gave me was for a Water Level Pressure Switch Hose 34″ Long. These are specific to the unit and it is recommended to replace with exact hose. Matt Ace technician

Hello
See diagnostics on page #10 of the technician manual link below. With the symptoms you are describing it could be many possibilities. Matt Ace technician

See technician sheet link below.

Hello
Replace the sump assembly, which contains the heater, ntc sensor, etc. It is likely not sensing a heat rise if one is present. It will stop when this happens.The heater is in the motor, part # 00669135. Also see if you can bring up fault code e24 or e25 control board monitors current between wash motor and drain pump also check the drain flap it is down were the drain hose goes into the sump. had a few we removed the little flapper. See technician sheet linkk below

Hello
The LF error code is : NO WATER DETECTED ENTERING WASHER OR PRESSURE SWITCH TRIP NOT DETECTED. Possible Causes/Procedure
1) Check if the home has low water pressure; open the water faucets
2) Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3) Make sure that cold and hot valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way.
4) Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves.
5) Check all hoses for possible leaks.
6) Check if the customer used an aftermarket “no flood” hose. This can sometimes
stop the flow of water to the washer.
7) Make sure that wire harness connections from Inlet Valves (double and single),
Drain Pump, Pressure Switch, & CCU (PR6, DP2, VCH7, and DI6 cavities connectors)
are not broken or with wires detached, and that connector internal pins are visible.
8) Check the continuity between the following components:
A. Inlet valve connectors (double and single) to the CCU (VCH7 and DI6 cavities)
B. Drain Pump & CCU (DP2 cavity) connectors
C. Pressure Switch & CCU (PR6 cavity) connectors.
9) If the continuity diagnosis failed, Main Harness must be replaced.
10) Check the resistance of the Inlet valve in each port of the valve (double & single).
11) Make continuity test to the Pressure SW. See page 7.
12) Verify that the pressure switch hose is in good condition and properly connected
to tub and pressure switch.
13) Check hose for possible leaks. Remove hose from pressure switch. Make sure
that the open part where the hose is connected doesn’t have debris.
14) Check pressure switch operation. Remove pressure switch. Blowing air through
the opening, the two internal switches are heard one by one.
15) Check for Suds.
16) Verify there is not a siphon problem.
17) Make sure that all the connectors are fully seated.
18) Plug in washer or reconnect power.
– If still not functioning properly , verify the washer operation by running the Diagnostic Test cycle.
See Technician link and Job Aid links below

Hello
Did you ohm out the ice dispenser switch ? Does the switch power ? If so have you checked for 115 volts power at the auger motor ? If you have power at the auger you have either a tied up auger motor or a open winding. I have provided the wiring schematic for your model along with the parts breakdown links below. Matt Ace technician

Hello

  The F:70 Error is a  communication between electronic assembly, it flashes when there is no communication between  the machine control and the console electronics. Check console electronics harness connections to the machine control. Replace the machine control electronics. If both boards were replaced run through diagnostics if no errors replace console electronics harness.  See diagnostic sheet