All Answers

Hi. I have attached the condensation service pointer for you. This is for frost in freezer. It lists the part numbers in the pointer. Is this what you are looking for? I have seen a lot of bottom mount freezers have frost issues. I have applied silicone on many of these units where the freezer liner meets the frame. There is usually a gap there. I have also found bad doors. The liner on the door where the door seal attaches can be warped. I tried to find a picture on this kit and could not. Not sure what this kit consists of.

Hi. If you have proper power to the main control board that sends power to the user interface and a new user interface did not fix the issue then you must have a bad control board. I am unable to locate any Tech sheet or information on this unit.

Hi. Yes, it very well could be the motor squeaking. I have seen motors squeak before. Did you change the idler pulley shaft/bracket when you did the idler pulley? You could get a squeak there as well. Sounds like you’ve checked everything else. Sometimes I get a cabinet squeak just from the vibrations of the unit while it’s running. In some cases you can level the unit or twist or tweek the cabinet to get it to go away.

Hi. Yes, this sounds like a bad transmission. If the motor is running in the coupler is rotating then you have a bad transmission. The brake does not apply during agitation.

Hello
See link for service manual & diagnostics below. Matt Ace technician

Hello this model number is not correct. Please double check your model

Hello

             The 8C 06 Error is MEMS sensor problem. I have linked you a fast track diagnostic chart. Matt Ace technician 

HI. I am unable to find any tech sheet on this unit. I did find the user manual which lists error codes on page 51. If your getting an error code this may help. What happens with this unit? After an hour of running everything shuts off and will not come back on for an hour? Or is it “dead” now and will not come back on for you? From the part look up, the control panel is NLA, or has a bad look up on it. Sounds like a board issue to me, but it is hard to say for sure.

Hello
I have provided the control board troubleshooting sheet for you.

Matt Ace technician

Hi. Here is the Programming steps straight out of the tech sheet for you. I have also attached the tech sheet for you.

Programming Mode:
NOTE: The Program Code is located on the Serial Plate on this unit after the word Code.
1. Press and hold the Door Alarm Keypad.
2. Press and hold Freezer Temperature DOWN /- Keypad within 3 seconds.
3. Release the Door Alarm Keypad and wait 3 seconds.
4. The control will display PE to indicate the programming mode.
5. Entry is confirmed by pressing the Freezer Temperature DOWN /- Keypad once more.
6. The control will display the current Program CODE. This value should be validated with theProgram CODE printed on the unit serial plate.
NOTE: If the Program CODE is correct, the Programming Mode is exited by pressing Door Alarm Keypad for 3 seconds.
7. Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ Keypad or Refrigerator Temperature DOWN /- Keypad to change the digit value with each key press.
8. The decimal point indicates the selected digit. Press the Freezer Temperature UP /+ Keypad to select the next digit.
9. Once the desired Program CODE is entered, press and hold the Freezer Temperature DOWN /- Keypad until the Program CODE begins flashing
indicating it has been saved.
NOTE: If you attempt to enter an invalid Program CODE the control will not save the new code, but will beep. (The unit will NOT run with a Program
CODE of 0000).Once the Program CODE has been saved the Programming Mode is exited by pressing any key. If the new code is incorrect this
process should be repeated.
The Programming mode can be exited at any time by pressing Door Alarm key for 3 seconds or will exit if unattended for four minutes.
Defrost Operation:
The Control Board adapts the compressor run time between defrosts to achieve optimum defrost intervals by monitoring the length of time the defrost
heater is on. After initial power up, defrost interval is 4 hours compressor run time. Defrost occurs immediately after the 4 hours.

Hi. I could not find a tech sheet on this one. I did find this info on a SE error code. SE= Defective key on the control panel. Unplug the range. Open the control console and make sure that the wire harness is plugged into the oven electronic control board properly. Check the wire harness for damage. If the wire harness is okay, replace the control panel. If the problem persists, replace the electronic control board.

Hello, SE error is most commonly fixed by changing the main pcb/clock control. I am sorry we do not have any service manuals on this model at this time.

Hello, sound like you need a new start switch for sure!

Hello, There is a micro switch in the dispenser you need to see it the switch is working properly and check to see if you are getting 120v to the auger motor. One thing I have seen many times is where the wires go up into the freezer door they can break from the door opening and closing, there is enough wire you can use butt connectors to re attach the wires.

The thermal fuse in back of the dryer (part #wp 3392519) is supposed to fail and not reset, same as heater box cutoff thermostat(279816) , however i have seen rare instances where the did in fact not completely fail.It is rare but does happen. You also may have a timer issue. See if any cycle on high heat will complete. The motor does have a thermal limiter on it and it may be that on high heat the amperage draw on the motor winding is just enough to trip thermal limiter on motor. This is a strange issue for sure .I am however leaning towards a bad motor.

Hello
Looking at the schematic the motor is in series with the timer, door switch , push to start switch . Is the door staying closed securely ?

Hello
Here is a link below to troubleshoot your issue. Matt Ace technician

Hello Dan
I know you said you experienced some frost buildup on the inside door of the freezer. Did you find out what was causing the air leakage ? It could be you dispenser flap not closing or a door seal issue. Also look for food hitting inside door liner not letting the door close all of the way. I need you to check the freezer temperatures, it should be -5 degrees to +10 degrees for the ice maker to harvest properly and drop ice. It has a thermostat inside the ice maker needs to verify the ice is frozen before it drops the cubes. If you do not have a thermometer , put a quart of ice cream in the freezer and make sure it stays solid, ice cream has to be at least 5 degrees above zero to stay solid. Do you have good water flow through the dispenser ? If you do not you could have a restricted water saddle valve that ties in to your house water line to supply water to the refrigerator. Next you will need to force the ice maker through a harvest cycle and make sure it has a water fill of is 85 to 95cc (2.75 to 3.25 oz) . Once it fills remove the ice maker and measure water amount. If it is low water fill you could have a partially plugged fill tube see link below, or calcium and lime deposits in the water in let valve. Hopefully its a restricted valve . If all of the water supply is correct and you have good temperatures in the freezer and the ice maker can harvest manually you will need to replace the ice maker. I hope this helps Matt Ace technician

Ice maker information
Test Cycling
Press the momentary contact on the ON/OFF switch for approximately 15 seconds. Ice maker
will continue to complete the cycle.
Water Fill Volume
The water fill can be adjusted without removing the ice maker cover. To adjust the fill size,
remove the small round plug next to the On/Off Switch. Insert a #2 Phillips screwdriver into
the hole about an inch or until it engages the Water Fill Adjustment Screw. Turn the screw
clockwise to reduce the fill size; turn the screw counterclockwise to increase the fill size. One
turn equals approx 20cc (0.68 oz). The correct fill is 85 to 95cc (2.75 to 3.25 oz). When a
water valve is replaced, check the fill volume.

Hello
Please see the parts link below for your model. I do not see a diverter / reversing valve on the sealed system breakdown. Are you sure you have one on this model ? I see the compressor inverter board but not a valve. This is a Kenmore refrigerator made by LG. I have a Whirlpool reversing valve video below that can give you some some help if you model has one. Matt Ace technician

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/FGHC2331PFAA/1428/0165000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=FGHC2331PFAA&searchTerm=FGHC2331PFAA

Hi. The frost build up on the evaporator is either due to the unit not self defrosting or a clogged drain tube. If its defrosting and the drain its clogged you will get water/ ice on the bottom of the refrigerator under the crisper. If not your issue is more than likely a defrost issue. You said you get a ohm reading of .06 on your defrost heater? The Samsung heater usually have a reading of 60-120 ohms. Sounds like you may have a bad heater. Also, there is a drain tube update kit I would recommend installing as well. I have attached the service pointer on the kit which has the part number inside.