All Answers

Hello, you are on the rite track, if the compressor stays running and the evaporator is around 45-55 degrees F. Yes you will have a sealed system issue for sure.

Hello
See technician sheet link. Do you have any error codes coming up or stored error codes ? I would run the unit through a forced defrost cycle. Press the Freezer button a second time to Force Fridge Defrost. Measure
defrost voltage at main PCB. Check defrost sensors. Defrost – The sensor voltage tells the Main PCB to turn off the
Defrost Heater At 50o in Freezer, 63o in Fridge. Matt Ace technician

How to Check Sensor Resistances Accurately
Make ice slurry. To do this, fill a cup with ice
(preferably crushed), then add water and a teaspoon
of salt to make a slush. Mix thoroughly and allow to sit
for 2 to 3 minutes. This will give you a 32*F reference.
Now, lower the sensor into the mixture and
leave for about 1 minute, then check the resistance. It
should be very close to 13,300 ohms. Before reinstalling
the sensor, be sure to rinse it with fresh water and
Defrost – The sensor voltage tells the Main PCB to turn off the
Defrost Heater At 50o in Freezer, 63o in Fridge
Compartment Temp – The sensor controls fan/compressor on/
off to maintain temp
Ice Production – harvests when the I/M sensor reads 1.5 degrees
for 5 minutes, Flex Tray Only.
If the door is opened during that 5 minutes harvest is delayed.
Ambient Sensor
Fan Speeds – Below 60 degrees condenser fan is off
Defrost Timing – The warmer the room the more often it goes into defrost cycle.

Hello
Unfortunately with LG you have to buy the entire wire harness. As I looked at the parts breakdown they do not have any kit as of yet. Matt Ace technician

F2 error is shorted key , See page #2 on technician diagnostic sheet below. Matt Ace technician

1. Verify failure, if not displayed. Go to Diagnostics screen 5 A-Last Fault Code/ B-Cleared Error Code), page 3; and clear the error
   code by pressing the START key.
2. Unplug range or disconnect power longer than 30 seconds.
3. Plug in range or reconnect power.
4. Observe for longer than 1 minute.
5. If failure remains, go to step 6.
6. Unplug range or disconnect power.
7. Replace control.
8. Replace all parts and panels before operating.
9. Plug in range or reconnect power.
10. Verify operation is normal. Go to step 1 and complete checks

Hello
When you put the unit into diagnostics you are bypassing the door lock assembly. If you are still getting the door lock error code even after you have completed an Ohm test, I would replace the door lock. I am assuming this will correct your issue, we have see this many times. Matt Ace technician

Hello
See the diagnostic sheet link below. Run through diagnostics and email us back. Matt Ace technician

Hello
Do you have any stored or flashing error codes ? Look at page 6-5 in the job Aid link below I sent you. This will get you into the Service History Mode Diagnostics. I suggest you unplug the unit for 10 minutes to rest the board. If you cannot get into diagnostics mode or history mode I would start with the board and move forward from there. I hope this helps Matt Ace Technician

Hi. Is the unit still dispensing ice? Check that the auger inside the ice bucket is not jammed up and it can move freely. Take the bucket out and while you hold the door switches in press the ice dispenser paddle. Check to see if the auger motor is rotating. The noise is most likely coming from the auger motor. I have attached a repair video for you.

Hi. Check for power to your compressor. IF you have proper power to the compressor, then you have a faulty overload/ relay(start components) or a faulty compressor. IF you are not getting power to the compressor you could have a bad main control board. The control board is the most likely part that is causing this issue. Very common. You will usually find a burnt spot on the back side of the control board.

If you have 115 volts to the igniter, then I recommend to replace the igniter.

Hello
I have provided a technician sheet & parts breakdown in the links below. I would check and see if you have power to the igniter. The easiest way to do this is by turning on the over and checking for line voltage with the Non-Contact Voltage Tester Pen. See link https://www.amazon.com/Apipema-Non-Contact-12-1000V-Torchlight-Pre-Installed/dp/B019RTM0R0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473178643&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=voltage+tester&psc=1
Matt Ace technician

See link for Viking parts purchase and link below to parts breakdown. On freezing food in refrigerator section I would start by making sure you have an even frost pattern on the evaporator. If you do not this could indcate a sealed system issue. http://www.allvikingparts.com/?Click=2&gclid=CISm-ajq-M4CFdY2gQodMR0P7g

Hello .
This is a ice maker fan error see link below .Matt Ace technician

Er/rF or noise due to the ice on R-fan [103KR****** ~ 405KR******]
Symptoms / Customer Complaint:
– Er/rF on display (error code) due to the ice on R-fan.
– Ticking or Grinding Noise from the R fan that goes away when doors are opened.
2) Problem / Cause:
– Ice build up around R-fan motor assembly and R-Eva assembly.
– Small amounts of ice build up around R-fan causing a noise when the fan is spinning.
3) Soultion
– Replace Controller Assembly and also remove fridge evaporator fins as shown next page.
SEE ATTACHMENT

Hello
In most cases you will find the schematics in the unit with each appliance you are working on. They are located in different places. On washers , dryers & ranges they are located most of the time under the control panel. On refrigerators they are sometimes under the kick plate. If you send us the make and model number of your appliance we can email you the wiring on any appliance we have access to through Repair Help. Matt Ace technician

Our PDA shows one board for this model and it is # WP34001498.

Hi. I would check your shocks. The shocks hold the washer in place. The more wight in the tub the bigger the gap will be. 11 inches seems to be a large gap. It should only be a couple of inches.The speed sensor is located directly on the motor. I have searched for videos for this repair and could not find any. I also could not find a tech sheet on this one. I have attached a parts diagram. The speed sensor is #911.

Hello
Go to page #20 on the diagnostic list below and it will walk you through the diagnostics. Matt Ace technician

Hello
Look on page #6 to diagnose the lid lock . Run through the diagnostics on page #6 and all information is there. Matt Ace technician

Hello
I have supplied all of the information on your issue for condensation problem. The Facia heater kit is the most common used. See links below . Matt Ace technician

On the Maytag washers the lid lock flashing means the machine has detected an error. The service manual is in a pouch that can be reached through the top and is located on the front inner panel. In the manual it will show you how to enter the diagnostics and then how to read the error code. This may take a little practice and patience if it is your first time. The most common issue was the main pulley coming off, but that seems to have past now with some loctite on the threads. Now the most common problem is the actuator which shifts the gearing and reads the speed, W10006355. Matt Ace technician