All Answers

Hello, In most cases like this either the washer is being overloaded or the clutch is going out on it. I attached a video about the clutch replacement, it is common for older direct drive wpl washer to have a slipping clutch.

Hello, ! Have attached a tech sheet and videos for a similar model. It sound to like the door lock is broken or the main control has a glitch.

Hello
If the water turned off when the bail arm was lifted that means the diaphragm in the inlet valve has shut off and seated properly. The ice maker sends 115 volts to the inlet vale during the harvest cycle for 7.5 seconds to fill the ice maker. Once the inlet vale is not energized with 115 volts the valve should shut off 100 % of the water into the ice maker. So if the ice maker continues to send power to the valve its a defective ice maker. Other things to check before replacing the ice maker. Make sure your cubes are at least a half inch thick and you have an amount of water in fill across the bottom of the tray. If you have low water pressure, this will produce small cubes that can then get jammed in the arm of the ice maker and causing the unit to overfill as it get jammed in the fill position. If you have proper cube size they cannot get jammed. If you have low water pressure look at the water saddle valve or water inlet valve for lime and calcium deposits, replace them instead of trying to clean them.

Average ice production time is the approximate time needed for one complete cycle, from fill to one dump of ice. Complete cycle time for full-size, 8-cube ice maker models is usually between 1 hour, 45 minutes to 2 hours (or approximately 8 to 12 batches of ice in a 24 hour period) depending on the type and size of refrigerator it is installed in. Top-freezer refrigerators are usually toward the slow end of the scale.

The ice maker fills on strictly a time basis. It should fill for approximately 7.5 sec. resulting in 140cc (about 4.75 oz.) of water filling the ice cube mold. If needed the fill time (and thus fill amount) can be adjusted slightly. This however should rarely be needed after initial installation and connection. If the unit is filling more or less than it has in the past, there may be a problem which should be looked into.

Hope this helps Matt Ace technician

Hello, If it drained fine before and the valve is not leaking you need to check the air gap and the drain pump and drain line.

Hello, first thing to check is the gas safety valve, i is located behind the lower drawer. pull it out and you will see it in the back. there will be three wires, if you go from the middle to on side or the other you multi meter should read around 740 ohms. if you do not get the same reading on both sides i would change out the safety valve.

Hello, Zelik123 you need to check the frost on the coils to make sure it is defrosting properly and that you have a good frost pattern, is the fan working properly? if those check good check the return air vents.

Hello, I would check all you wire connections to make sure they are locates in the rite spot and making good connection. If this was not a issue before you changed the board than the must be something over looked. I attache a tech sheet that will work for this model.

Hello
I have provided service bulletins, diagnostic guide and video. Let us know if this resolves your issue. Matt Ace Technician .. https://www.appliancevideo.com/premiumotr/maytag-washer-gear-case-grinding-noise/

Hello
I would replace the flapper and seal. Also make sure they didn’t use a blow dryer to melt the ice. We had a whirlpool where the chute threshold got melted and warped. If so replace ice chute. See video links below.
Whirlpool ice maker videos… https://www.appliancevideo.com/advanced-search/#sf-{“2″:”192″,”4″:”45″,”search-id”:”vidsearch”}

Hi. If the heater is not the faulty part, you could have a bad defrost sensor, bi-metal, or control board. The sensor is tested for continuity. Depending on the temperature that the sensor is at you will get a different ohm reading. The chart is on page 49 of the service manual I have attached for you. The bi-metal can just be checked for continuity. It should be closed. If the sensor and bi -metal both test good, then the only thing left is the control. You will need to replace the control if the sensor, heater, and bi- metal test good.

My experience on the french door dual evaporator units have been to treat the problem from the back having to avoid the labor intensive task of removing ALL of customers food and shelving.

The past month or two I have been installing the WP drain rework kit, 3 out of 4 have worked with just installing the kit and defrosting the frozen drain from the back using a steamer and fishing a 5/16″ plastic line slowly with steam to remove ice build up. After confirming the drain is clear, force a defrost cycle from front controls, and visually inspect water coming from drain kit, you are good to go. The FF drain is the farthest to the right between the water valve and condenser coil.

That 4th unit, my problem child over the past 6 months, which I will be going back for the last time next week and will be installing some copper solid wire from heater and inches & inches down that hole. Unit has had the following replaced – fresh food cover, a new Samsung drain tube kit, Samsung’s evaporator heater probe, and a WP drain kit (which has been over a month) but now acting up again. If the copper wire does not fix it, there has got to be some missing insulation where the drain runs behind the freezer, the freezing appears to be starting halfway between the back drain tube and the drain below the evaporator coils.

So, other than the problem child above, the WP kit seems to be working. I will update if anything changes.
Samsung training videos link

https://www.appliancevideo.com/advanced-search/#sf-{“2″:”210″,”4″:”45″,”search-id”:”vidsearch”}

I’m attaching the mini-manual for you see link below . If the motor or drive system is not “blocked” or binding, then it may be internally defective. It won’t be the first time a tach-generator has malfunctioned in a front-loader. The mini-manual should help determine if the motor is OK or if it is a control issue. See video links on GE washers

https://www.appliancevideo.com/advanced-search/#sf-{“2″:”195″,”4″:”47″,”search-id”:”vidsearch”}

Hello
We have videos and diagnostics . See links below
https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/samsung-rf263teaesr-refrigerator/

Hello

Each unit has a tag with the number of ounces of refrigerant the unit takes along with the refrigerant type. Did you check the tag on the unit to verify you were adding the proper refrigerant type R12, R134A ? Are you weighing in the refrigerant with a refrigerant scale ? If the unit is overcharged and you flood the system it will overheat the compressor and shut the unit off on a overload safety device . Or you could just have a compressor locking up. You would need to check the compressor amprege to see if it is locked rotor amprege. Matt Ace technician

Hello, you want to check to see if the fan is turning at full speed. What the most likely issue you are having is the return air vents are blocked by something, the freezer cannot blow any air into the fridge if it cannot pull air from somewhere, that is why when you open the freezer door it will blow. the vents allow air to move through out the freezer section and the fridge section. check the vents.

Hi. Please double check the last 2 digits of that model number. I have attached a tech sheet that should be close to your model.

Here is the information we have currently. See links below

Hi. Was the ADC replaced for the issue of being too cold in the refrigerator section or a different issue? I show p# 5303918476 as the correct part for your unit. Did you get instructions in the ADC kit? The instructions explain how only one of the wires get installed back on to the damper assembly and which side of the damper to install the wire. This could be your issue. If the damper was previously working and your temps were too cold you could have a sealed system issue, which would be causing temps to be too warm in the freezer section as well as too cold in the refrigerator. Attached is the schematic for you unit to assist you.

Hello
See video link below on what you are looking for. Matt Ace technician .. https://www.appliancevideo.com/premium/electrolux-ei23bc35ks-refrigerator-drawer-will-not-open-freezer-door-slide/

Hello, I have attached some documents for you. first thing i would check is for 120 volts to the auger motor, then move to the next item if not getting power at the auger, the information i attached should help you through the process.